watda

Thanks a lot for the replies. These will be for a BFII and will be just the fronts. Scatterbrain - was this price for BA or BF?

Has anybody recently purchased the DBA 4000 slotted rotors (part numbeer 42107SL and 42107SR)? I can't seem to find them any cheaper than about $350 per rotor. This price is from Autobarn / Supercheap. I remember these rotors being approximately $200 a piece at one stage a year back. Is this no longer the case? Cheers

So how did you go with the GT front bar?

The 6spd auto is a renowned gearbox. It is very smooth, to the point where up shifts through the gears are barely noticeable. I believe the same box is used in Bentley's, BMW 7 series and the like. In terms of "speed", because there's no taken to change gears 1/4 mile speeds and acceleration will be faster. I have the 6 spd manual and made this decision because I like to "feel" as though I am driving the car, rather than the car driving itself. The Auto is nice but takes the fun out of it. The manual gearbox/diff is known to be a little clunky at times, and it's a reasonably long throw between shifts. The long throw can be minimised with a short shifter. At the end of the day, all you need to do is decide what you will use the car for and go from there. Good luck and enjoy!

Do you have a link by any chance?

Hmmm that might be tough... Probably the best option at this stage given how well tucked away the mould actually is

That boost is about right. Enjoy

Accomplished the install, took out the ICC in the process. Too easy. Thanks for the advice. Cheers

Hey have you checked to see if the boost line is kinked in any way or if there's a leak in the line somewhere? Of course, if you're using the same boost line just connecting the different gauges in your cabin this will be irrelevant!

Hey, I will be installing an aftermarket subwoofer in my BFII XR6T and will therefore remove the premium sound subwoofer to fit the subwoofer box. However the carpet mould on the underside of the parcel shelf which covers the subwoofer is still in the way. Where can I get a stock carpet mould from a non premium sound boot apart from directly from Ford as the price is probably going to be sky high? Cheers

Very good thinking. If I dont have any luck with the cobalt I may have to swap it for the ozegauge boost.

Hey, I've recently bought a Autometer Cobalt boost gauge and the boost line is a small rigid plastic (I think) pipe which is really difficult to run to the gauge. It's really making installation difficult and I would like to ditch it! Is the boost line on the ozegauge gauges made from this plastic, or the regular rubber hose that you will find coming directly off the BOV? Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a plan! Thanks for that

What specifically needs to be fixed/replaced to get rid of the clunk?

Hey, When I have the car in nuetral and I blip the throttle (very lightly, maybe 5%) I can hear a rattling noise coming from what sounds to be the gearbox. The most unusual characteristic of this noise is that it's more pronounced when I have the headlights turned on! Does anybody have an idea what this unusual problem may be? Cheers!

I've been having the exact same kind of clunk from my diff. I have the same model T as you do. Did you end up having this fixed? I assume this is a problem "by design" rather than a fault so to speak. Every manual ford I've driven does a similar thing.

Name: Brad Age: 22 Occupation: Systems Integration Analyst Live: Melbourne Drive: BFII XR6T Conquer Blue Here's the best pic I've got at the moment, only had this baby for < 2 weeks.

Hey, I'm trying to get a handle on the way boost is controlled through a flash tune. Is it simply "set and forget" at a certain boost level (eg 12psi), or are there other factors in play here? Ultimately, my motivation for asking this question is that I can't understand how the XR6T can remain "un-laggy" with an aftermarket FMIC being installed if the piping length after the turbo is longer than stock (without a plenum). Any ideas?

Will definitely do both of those and see how it goes. Thanks again

That's what I was thinking as well. My boost gauge is consistently reading 1-2 psi below that. What is the possibility my car is either: 1 - leaking boost 2 - somehow tuned slightly lower from the factory Thanks

What is the standard boost level on a BF MKII XR6T? Thanks

Please count me in on this. Cheers

The T piece that it came with looks too small for the BOV hose. I'd prefer to get a larger diameter T piece that fits tight, than clamping down on a lose hose around it. What gauge are you using? I wouldn't have thought the position of the gauge would make any difference to the readings? given that alot of people seem to place their gauges on the dash without any problems.

I'm currently in the process of installing a boost gauge into my BF MKII T and have run into a little bit of trouble. What is the appropriate sized T piece that I can use to splice into the BOV line to read boost? Secondly, is it possible to run the boost line from above the dash, through the passenger side footwell grommet and into the engine bay without removing the ICC? If so, what's the best way to accomplish this? I know there are threads on gauge installation, but I'm yet to find one that explains in detail how to complete it without ICC removal. Thanks.

Upgraded to a BF MKII T. Absolutely astonished that the car in stock standard form with so much weight has the power and delivery that it does. Previous car: 2003 WRX (Modified with approximately 185kw atw). Needless to say, the XR6 was a big step up in power. Handling of the T on the other hand is something to get used to.