P4N1C

Denso, Ford Part # 3R23 10E887 AB. Are you after updated maps?

I'm installing a Sat Nav unit in for a customer and they don't have a remote. If they source one, sure I'll pass it on to you. I personally don't see it right to charge someone for it because it's missing the rear battery cover. I'll let you know.

For Denso Sat Nav, the remote control your after is this one. This is a photo of a spare unit I have. Approx $360 at Fraud. Absolute rip off. Earlier Bluepaunkt system looks different, and the FG based VDO system is different again. If anyone is after a VDO remote control for an FG, PM me I have a few spares with me.

Some food for thought... controlling the functions of the ICC could be done with a Arduino board with some basic programming and a bit of electrical experience.

How did you guys go? I'd have to see if I have any left over, but for anyone in Melbournite I can supply a TPS fairly cheap.

Idle speed is controlled by the PCM. The throttle body starts to build up with carbon, sludge and various crud over time restricting the flow at idle speed. Most of it comes from the valve cover breather pipe and can effect your idle speed. Have your throttle body cleaned up and whilst there doing that, its a good chance to check your TPS.

Problems after re-calibration will indicate a failing TPS, the contacts wear out or readings fluctuate between a cold and hot engine bay. Just my own opinion here, but 9 out of 10 times, re-calibration of a old TPS will never fix the problem.

Everything is the same except for the physical size of the housing and the fact that it's a different supplier. It will bolt in and plug straight up. Good idea to recalibrate the TPS.

Turbo or N/A heater pipes? I should be able to sort you out with this, but I need to know if you have a BA or BF, Manual, 4Spd or 6Spd Auto? BA and BF heater pipe off the water pump have different end flanges and support bracket. I think we have 4spd Auto Turbo and N/A heater pipes which also work for Manual as well. Not sure if they are BA or BF, I'll have to check. 6Spd is a different heater pipe altogether.

I should be able to sort you out with the heat shields. I'll let you know by Friday.

Unfortunately the wastegate solenoid wiring won't be there, along with the wiring for boost sensor - that's part of the turbo engine loom. It's a bit more work to do a whole engine loom change and then some. Best solution would be to forget the solenoid and associated parts and connect the wastegate actuator onto the intake manifold near the fuel regulator Tee fitting and use an inline bleed valve to control wastegate. By standard the wastegate diaphragm spring is set to 4-5~ PSI and you can use the manual bleed valve to increase boost when safe ...if you're game. I'd say the dump pipe is intact, I can't see anyone cutting it in half. I reckon for the exhaust you may have to get out the cold saw and welder to make up a temporary pipe and fitting. Then once your right, send it down to get something more permanent fitted.

I don't quite understand which part your talking about ethier? As Azzman said, the dump pipe connects directly to the exhaust pipe by a V flange and runs down to the cat. Essentially there is no seperate pipe between dump pipe and cat - it's just one piece. The bolts and nuts shouldn't be a problem. Once you start fitting parts in place you can sort your bolts out by heading down to MetricMan or Boltmasters. So don't worry to much about it. BTW: Just wondering where you're located?

They did a level change on the TPS during very late model BA's. Completely different manufacturer of the TPS. I've had a heap of BA's that start showing your symptons and sure enough the TPS is giving faulty readings. I usually change to the later type. I'll post a picture showing the two different units. Most obvious difference between the two, is you'll notice the housing of the BA one is slightly larger compared to a the later as fitted to BF. Which procedure did you use to recalibrate the TPS?

What year and build month is your car, if you can supply your SIDO number - even better. Failing all what you have done, this sounds like a classic case of TPS packing it in. But before going out and getting a replacement TPS, let me know your build date first and also check your fuel regulator for blockages.

If Azzman can't help you, let me know. Depends on where you are and how busy I am with work. Drilling and tapping of the oil pan can be done. However I prefer to drop the oil pan, which means supporting the motor and dropping the lower member to be able to remove it. But make sure you have all the parts ready. I've put down a detailed list before in another thread of what you need before you start. If you have trouble locating things, let me know what you need and theres a very good chance I can get it at half the price you'd normally pay (new or used). http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55507

Infact a 1 Bar MAP sensor will read approx 0 kPa vacuum and up to 14.7 PSI (1 Bar) which is close to the correct atmospheric pressure at sea level (absolute pressure). A boost gauge reads pressure relative to atmospheric pressure. So 12 PSI of boost would be 26.7 PSI absolute pressure in the manifold. But remember, the MAP sensor is not there to tell the PCM how much boost is being made, that positive pressure in the manifold is a base calculation to determine the mass amount of air entering the motor. So whilst it's not entirely feasible, it could be done. Wild guess, but I'd say they are tuning AFR based heavily on oxygen sensor value once the reading of the MAP sensor has maxed out and using a stoichiometric or slightly rich AFR during WOT. EDIT: Unquoted my reply - wasn't directed at anyone's particular post.

The cross over pipe configuration looking at it from a bird's-eye point of view, is the following: Top Right - To Airbox Bottom Right - To Throttle Body Top Left - To Turbo Inlet (plastic pipe) Bottom Left - To Charged Plumbing (after intercooler) Where are you located?

The following is not a full turbo conversion, its simply a bolt on method which retains as much factory components as possible. You'll still need to get the car flash tuned on dyno to correct ignition timing and AFR. Safely, you can only run a moderately low boost level of around 4-5 PSI. You'll also need to drill and tap your oil pan for oil return. You can do this with the oil pan on but its not hard to remove the oil pan without dropping the motor out. If you decide to drop the oil pan, then include the price of a oil pan gasket. Just working off the top of my head. You'll need the following... Major Components: 1. Turbo 2. Dump Pipe 3. Turbo Exhaust 4. Cross Over Pipe 5. Turbo Coil Cover 6. Turbo Fuel Regulator (400kpa) 7. Spark Plugs (NGK BKR6EIX-P) 8. Turbo Airbox (Lower half only) Heatshields: 1. Exhaust Manifold 2. Exhaust Manifold Heatshield 3. Steering Shaft Heatshield 4. Engine Mount Heatshield Water and Oil Lines: 1. Heater Pipe Return (From thermostat housing) **4spd automatic and manual are the same, however 6spd automatic is different part number. 2. Heater Pipe Feed (From water pump. BA and BF are slightly different so again make sure you order the right one. No difference between 4spd, 6spd or manual) 3. Water Return (From heater pipe to water outlet on turbo) 4. Water Return (From heater pipe to water inlet on turbo) 5. Oil Feed (From oil switch to oil inlet on turbo) 6. Oil Return (From oil pan to oil outlet on turbo) Along with oil and water lines, you'll need gaskets and washers for each oil/water line. Turbo Plumbing: 1. Cold Side Pipe (From cross over to turbo inlet) 2. Charged Pipe (Rubber pipe from turbo outlet to alloy) 3. Intercooler Inlet Pipe (Rubber pipe from alloy to intercooler inlet) 4. Intercooler Outlet Pipe (Rubber pipe from intercooler to cross over)

Not sure, its my mates car. I'll have to measure them up. They are deffinetly bigger then standard N/A Territory. So I'd say there bigger then BF brakes because the turbo has 18" wheels and the rotor and caliper setup just barely clears the wheels.

I was just flicking through the DBA catalouge and noticed that DBA do not have any part number listing for Territory Turbo rotors. Does anyone know of other brands (RDA, PBR, etc) that have a listing for Territory Turbo yet?

The link to the guide on that thread no longer works. I think the file must of been deleted. Anyone else got a copy so it can be re-hosted?

Alternatively, you can use an external high to low level converter (I've used Scosche many times with great results), yes the one on your amplifier will do the same job, but I can almost gaurentee - if wired correctly - you will be able to elimate your line noise. The RCA modification for the ICC should be able to sort you out, but this will work out slightly more expensive. I'd say the noise may be due to poor grounding on ICC to start with. No doubt about it, the ICC ground would be bound together with the rest of the cars electricals and be much longer then it necessarily needs to be. A good earth should connect directly to the chassis as close as possible. For more information and some things to try: http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html Hope you get it sorted out!

I've done a few full installs in BA and BF models. I've never come across any ground loop noise or alternator whine except for when using the auxilary input booster kit. Perhaps I've just stricked it lucky. However try the following before install any noise or ground loop filters. Filters only reduce the noise level, they won't eliminate it. Double check your amplifier ground, try a different location. If you can please take a photo so I have an idea of your grounding location. Check the braided grounding cable from the engine to the chassis. Clean the ends and make sure there is no surface corrosion degrading the connection. This includes the bolt. Disconnect your high level input from the amplifier, but leave everything else as it is. See if the whine is still present or if its gone. If you've mounted your amplifier directly to the chassis with screws, try insulating it between compression foam, rubber or MDF. You can even use nylon washers in between the screws.

The PCM does an emissions test once the car reaches a certain temperature, if you run too cold of a termo (unless you tune has been modified) the factory configuration will never reach it emissions self test and they do run slightly richer. Factory thermo is around 190F, a 180-185F thermo will be more then sufficient.