lil grey bf

sorry to hear that guys. I'm in the same situation myself. Been in pre-press printing for the last 15 years and had 7 jobs. I lost my job over a month ago now and I'm thinking the same about changing careers but no idea what to do. Anyway good luck to all involved

Well, I can understand a V8 being called "muscle" but I can't agree to it being the only "muscle". You have to remember the XU1 and the charger were both 6's in that list and as far as Aussie cars go, I'd be confused if they weren't on that list.

I don't think my dad has ever been out of Melbourne........ I think I'd have to leave the country if I'm related to that thing

That was the first time Ive ever seen this guy and I'm scared, really scared. Not because of his obvious mental issues but because I kind of look like him around the eyes

Hello F6R, I recently managed to squeeze some some pioneer TS-D1720C splits in the doors. They have a mounting depth of 64.5mm which I sat on 6mm mdf spacers which brings the depth to 58mm. You may have 2-3 mm behind the factory foam door lining but I wouldn't go any deeper than that. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but this works fine for me. Good luck

Hey Bjc, I called them and arranged a day to turn up, they pull your icc out while youre there but theres a charge if they do this. Then it took a little over 2 hours for the actual mod (I sat in the waiting room reading the history of ford, pretty interesting stuff). You can rip your icc out yourself yourself and bring it in which I knew about but I preferred they do all this to make sure it works when they put it all back together. Sorry for the delay, I havent been home for the last few days. Good Luck

bjc, I dont know if its the exact same mod, but I will say that the sound now is much much fuller than the sound coming from the speaker out into the amp. I dont know that Id be keen to pull the icc apart, but yeah, if you want to attempt it I'd be keen to see the results, the big bonus (to me, which may not be to others) is that they have also given me a remote out to power up the amp as well as a separate subwoofer out line and they tell me that I can do away with the factory amp etc altogether. Putrid fruit seems to sound like he knows whats going on and they seem to be fairly easy fixes if they work in your case so I'd give them a go first if I were you, (I already tried what he suggested a few days ago). In anycase, goodluck with whatever you try.

Ok guys, I got down to ASL this morning and got them to put the RCA's in. The whine is gone and it sounds much much better. So far so good. I dont know what line level converters sound like but if anyone is considering doing an audio upgrade using the factory HU I'd reccomend getting the same as what I did. Now I just have to learn how to properly tune it to sound right. Hope this steers some people in the right path.

thanks P4N1C, yeah the only thing I havent tried is connecting the power and the ground to a separate batterry but im pretty sure as you say its coming from the factory HU. I understand that a having rca's installed is slightly more expensive but I intend on keeping this car for a while plus having a pre -amped pre crossovered signal going to the amp might also give me a better sounding signal. Not that I know what a line signal converter would do to the signal but atleast if things dont work well with getting rca's then I know theres not much else to be done except return to standard or a seperate HU. I appreciate everyones help so far and Hope others can learn as well

Its all experience bjc. As annoying as this is, Im enjoying finding things out with some honest help of others. Ill keep the details coming as to what I do next. ASL already have an email in their inbox, whether they can do anything is another matter. Either way, as you say, everyones experiences on here are what others can use as a guide for themselves.

Thanks for your help P4N1C. This morning I ran a power cable outside the car to the amp, no difference. I then reconnected the power that I put in the car and rant the new power cable from ground of the amp to the negative on the battery, no difference. I then used a small part of the new power cable as a ground under the bracket of the backseat and sanded a shiny metal surface for contact, no difference. I also connected up this noise filter ( which I will return) no difference. I finally pulled the hi level speaker inputs out and while the car was on and yest the noise is gone that way. The amp is mounted to mdf and the mdf is mounted to the opposite side of the factory amp in the boot. So at this stage im guessing the noise is originating between the factory icc and the amp with the amp not being responsible for the noise. My final option is contacting ASL as even with the engine off, the sound quality im getting is fairly ordinary. The original factory setup sounded a little better. Thanks for your suggestions

Ok got myself one of these http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD it has no instructions on what to connect to what and where. Anyone have any ideas?

are you hearing noise outside the car while walking through public places too? Coz the hat might help then as well

Damn darleks!!! The annoying part is, I already have a good pioneer head unit from my previous car. But I wanted to keep the factory look and functions, hence using speaker outputs from the factory icc into an amp. Ill just have to fiddle around tomorrow, worst comes to worst I guess I can install my head unit, or put it back to factory setup.

Both crossovers are under passenger front seat right next to the speaker wiring

thanks bjc. that's a real let down, I just went for a drive and it seems to be every electrical thing in the car creating noise. Ill have another go tomorrow running a power cable outside the car into the amp and then try again with the earth straight to the battery. Its really annoying, how does everyone else run an amp with these problems?

I checked all the wiring, im only guessing but it may be the fuel pump as it makes no whine at all when the ignition is on the first click, second click and start its noisy. Its all new wiringmaybe ill run an external power wire to the battery and see if it makes a difference

Hi all, I know its been asked a few times (as I've looked) but does anyone have any experience getting rid of the whine in the audio? Ive just finished installing 6.5 inch splits and an amp and im getting a bad whine mostly through the tweeters. Ive used the speaker outputs from the icc to a high level input amp. Run the power down the drivers side and audio down the passenger side. Earthed the amp by bolting it to a hole above the wheel arch on the crivers side that has been sanded back to expose metal. Any help would be appreciated.

Had the exact same problem, ie. 100% stock no mods, light came on after a "software upgrade" at the ford service dept while getting an unrelated noise checked out. 4 visits later and 2 x etc warnings later, I couldnt get an answer. It eventually fixed itself. What Im trying to say (not intentionally trying to scare you) is that if its an intermittant problem you will probably get the same response I got from 2 seperate dealerships,"if it doesnt happen infront of us while its here we cant do anything about it"

Sierra Cosworths?

What about the first turbo falcons to come out in the 80's? The grand prix ones that nobody bought? They would be pretty rare

So where are you guysstashing the crossover for the splits, Im having a hard time trying to decide where to put mine. Theres a big clear area to the left of the dash at the back but nowhere to screw them in. Putting them in the door where that foam block is a great idea but running wires back through the doors loom seems like it will be a real pain

hows this?

I hope theres a solution soon, I doubt id even be able to sell it the way its going at the moment. The worst thing is I know its just something simple as it was running almost perfect before the dealership flashed a "new update" and being under warranty means I virtually cant do anything till its up. It only seems to play up after around 40 minutes of driving (very sedately) regardless of the weather conditions.