WBT56

Do you recall when it first did it? Fifth is a very small blocker ring, and if you completely muff the shift once it may be all over, it is nowhere near as forgiving as second, for example. The FBW throttle does not help either, particularly during a "busy" shift. Remember, the fifth outer hub and blocker ring from a BA will fit straight back into every T5 back to 1979, and it has never been a problem before, even the Brutes do not kill 5th blockers, it is just that every BA box with a dodgy 5th that I have pulled down, the owner has admitted to skip shifting. (ps the above truck comment was not directed at you, you reminded me of earlier comments by others). Ben.

If you are gentle and give it time, (natural rpm drop will help during a slow shift) then it should not be a problem. I personally never skip downshift into any gear, and only skip upshift into fourth. I also never neutral coast. It never fails to amaze me that some "behaviours" that people say they would accept in a truck but not in a car, if done while under instruction, would see them never pass their heavy vehicle test in the first place. Ben.

Do you skip shift into fifth? I have NEVER seen a fifth gear synchro failure in a T5 that was not skip shifted. You have to realize what is happening in the box when you do this. You are asking the synchro to synchronize input at 6000rpm (2nd) to 2070rpm. (100km/h). When going from fourth into fifth you are only making it synchronise 2875 to 2070. This is a huge difference. Ben.

Why not?

Yes, if it is the type that you have posted a picture of. Ben.

$830 is a good price. This is a cushioned cerametallic clutch, (a button has rivetted pads in 4, 5, or 6 paddle configuration), and is comparable to our option two, which costs $880. Only difference is ours has a HD hub. Ben. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wouldnt say its the same as your option 2.. (Option two is a HD 10.5" PP and a cerametallic clutch plate, capable of about 330rwkw. Cost is $880. my clutch NON CUSTOM is rated @ 900nm of torque and clamps to 1200kg. I had mine custom made with a chrome-moly casting and xtreme tell me it now clamps to 1550kg and will handle over 400rwkw and upto 1400nm. xtreme do HD PP's and XHD... mine is also XHD rather than your HD. im not bagging your product, it just came across in your post as yours was superiour compared to mine and I disagree. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No problem. I was merely pointing out the fact that you stated that "all other options were well over $1100", which is obviously untrue seeing you had the specs for our product. I did not say it was the same as our option two, I say it was comparable. Remember, our only option two to be slipped by anyone to date did it at 407rwkw, we choose to HEAVILY de-rate all of our clutch products. (I realize this is our problem, as you can only go off the specs we provide) Our option two is 1250kg clamp. Not nit picking, just trying to get some clarity in the argument for the benefit of the readers. We do not go higher than 1250 kg clamp in the 10.5" units, as the extra pedal effort required to release them has been seen to cause CSC failures in the BA range. Ben.

You are missing the point. I was trying to differentiate between a conventional "Button" (paddle) type plate, and a true "cushioned" cerametallic set up. We do not fit button plates to road cars. (sorry DW). We have had a lot of people ring up and complain about the shudder they are getting with other peoples "cushioned button" clutches, only to discover that the people have been supplied with a sprung hub button plate, not a true cushioned plate with the crinoline strip between the facings. Ben.

$830 is a good price. This is a cushioned cerametallic clutch, (a button has rivetted pads in 4, 5, or 6 paddle configuration), and is comparable to our option two, which costs $880. Only difference is ours has a HD hub. Ben.

Anyone remember Toyota advertising the "o2 advantage". When you sell something that does what all it competitors do, it does not make it new. Ben. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I dont understand, the Mal wood and Herrod short shifters reduce throw and neaten up the shift really nice, I should know I had one of your shifters in my ute. But the Rip Shift when demonstrated to me a few weeks back takes away the angle in the 2nd to 3rd shift alltogether, you simply hit it straight up as if you're going back into 1st. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> When you have the gearstick in the 3-4 neutral position and push it over to 1-2 and let it go, it comes back to 3-4 by itself. This is the centring spring doing its' job. Therefore, when you are in second, you push the gearstick straight to third. The forward motion brings the stick to 1-2 neutral. The centring spring then brings it to 3-4 neutral. The continued forward motion then brings it into third. All shifters do this, it is just that no one explains it this way. Our std Late model camira T56 cut away display box with the std POS extension shifter does it correctly, as many people have tried at the ford/Expensive Daewoo shows. Our short shifter does it, the B&M Ripper shifter does it, the Steeda Tri-ax does it. What you do is actually look at the gearstick- it is still in the third gear position- the gearstick has still travelled sideways as it crossed the neutral gate. This is normal, the shifter is not acting like a vertical gate of old. Hope this makes sense, Ben.

Anyone remember Toyota advertising the "o2 advantage". When you sell something that does what all it competitors do, it does not make it new. Ben.

Correct. We do not do slushers....Ben.

Our kit is $6900 plus clutch. If your clutch is suitable you only need to change the spline hub. (we run a sensible input spline, not the one from a sigma.) Ben.

The BA V8 TR3650 will not fit the T. End of story. The gearbox has an integral bellhousing design which incorporates the two front bearings, so bellhousing change is not possible. The box is also 4" longer than the box from the T, and so will not fit the tunnel. I know that you can buy brand new ones off about 60 people for $700-$1100+ at the moment, and these people will tell you it will fit, but it will not. Ben.

Looks the same system as used in VOLVO PENTA marine diesels for years.

Armidale is only a couple of hours from here. We can look at the box and quote to repair it if you can get it to us. Hope that helps. Ben.

It offers the best contact patch protection of any oil we have tried. Some other brands may offer good contact patch protection also, but do not look after the synchros as well. In carbon fibre synchro boxes the oil must do both jobs well. Ben.

These T56 ratios are ours, not what Ford use. Ben.

mal woods stage one is up to 240rwkw... stage 2 is up to 330 rwkw but not recommended for heavy traffic.... so there goes those 2 options <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Our stage two is the same as JB had in his car, but ours has a better quality hub in it. Some people have no trouble with these in traffic, (obviously JB did not), but some do, hence our recommendation. Ben.

I don't know about the A5, but the LeMans A4 were death on wheels. On curves with no camber they were prone to just let go with no warning. I also had one separate the tread from the wall and go exit, stage left, at speed. Not pretty. Ben.

Answered your PM, but for all and sundry: Oil used to be called LS90 in a 20 litre, or helix LS 90 in a 1 litre. We have been told by Shell that this oil has superceded to spirax "A" LS90. Possibly not quite as good as the old stuff, but still works fine. Still behaves better than any of the synthetics. Ben.

You cannot compare OE with our stuff. We do not even sell the new XR8 box std, we blueprint them, as they are not acceptable and will not live long term as is. You really need to drive a windsor with one of our boxes to get a fair comparison. We can even get an LS1 vehicle to acceptable stds, and that is no mean feat. Ben.

You know our solution, but anyway.......as far as a taller diff gearing goes, you can use 3.08, 2.92 or 2.77 if you really want to. There was a 2.54 available, but I do not know the whereabouts of any gearsets in this ratio. Ben.

Nothing wrong at all with a properly set up Tremec. Remember, the Tremec you hate so much in particular owes 90% of its problems to the fact that it is a Getrag in design, and this carried over all of their inherant problems. The one true problem in the TR3650 that is attributed to Tremec did not appear until BA anyway. Ben.

And as a wise man once said, assumption is the mother of all FU's. I did not respond like a goose, a suggestion would have been something like " I'm not sure, but as they are both T56 boxes you could try following this link to a web site and getting your hands on some more detail somewhere else, as there is bugger all on this site anyway." I'm "pretty sure" you said it would fit.

Nothing stands out as bad as total lack of product knowledge, CSV LS1. The LS1 runs a 12" clutch with a high style diagpragm and a 26 spline hub. The Turbo runs a 10.5" clutch with an intermediate style diagpragm and a 23 spline hub. About as much chance of it fitting as the crank from the LS1. Ben.