WBT56

I have no doubt that car has the suspension to cope, and the brakes to pull it up at the end. Aerodynamics are certainly the issue, as the air tends to get under the front of a std BA quite badly.We have a customer who has cracked 320 in a VTII sedan, (and lived), however VTII on FE2 is VASTLY more stable at speed than a BA XR6T on std suspension. Ben.

You need that many steps to work it out, I laid it out that way for clarity. BCL has MUCH larger tyres than std, but I do not recall the actual size. Working it out on std rubber, with the 0.63 top gear and 4.10 diff and a 7500 rpm limit, it would do [7500 /(805 x 4.10 x 0.63)] x 100= 360km/h. (And it WOULD do it). Ben.

Std gt wheels and tyres 2.07m, therefore 805wheel rpm at 100km/h. 3.46 diff and 0.63 top gear = 1755rpm at 100km/h. Therefore top speed at 5800 in top = 330km/h. Ben.

Tailshaft BALANCE is secondary. You have to ensure that both halves of the tailshaft are straight. Then they have to be balanced. Inner half shaft CV joints will want to be in good condition, as worn ones will allow run-out in the half shaft. Diff oil will have to be good quality, as many oils froth at high crown wheel speeds. Frothy oil will: a)run out the breather, and b) pit the contact patch under load. Gearbox will have to be very well toleranced if a T56, as high load in the overdrives puts a lot of stress on the mainshaft. My experience also shows the "T" to be very floaty (on std suspension) about the 205 mark. Ben.

I would not be worried about the minor clutch-based shudder, it is not big in the scheme of things as far as shock load goes. Full-on axle tramp generally induces a "wtf was that, pull over and stop" type response from someone who has not experienced it before. The real damage comes from people who realize what it is and keep into it, without regard for the drivetrain. Ben.

Hard to get into reverse neutral gate from 5th-6th neutral gate= reverse lockout problem. Hard to get into reverse once in the reverse neutral gate= possibly clutch or associated drag. Where does the clutch engage as you release it off the floor? I would try bleeding the clutch fluid through till it comes clean. Ben.

Try the transmax and also bleed the clutch fluid through till it goes clean. A heat related problem may be that you are getting clutch drag when the car is hot, and the double bump this induces in the shift is causing you to not fully engage second. (If it jumps out as soon as you let the clutch out, this indicates either not fully selected (intermittant fault) or outright damage to gear/hub dogs.(generally permanant fault)). Ben.

Also called wheel hop. When you get a rear wheel bouncing under load. Ford pretty much perfected it in the IRS AU, but it does not seem to be so prevalent in the control blade rear, though the live rear is still bad for it, hence the reason mkI utes kill second gear. Ben.

This I do not know, as we do not do autos. The ZF can be very prone to overheating, and a suitable oil will normally help, but I would not make a recommendation, out of my field. Sorry. Ben.

Any axle tramp? Normally only utes lunch second. Ben.

Factory fluid is just not up to it. I have seen cars (getting flogged, admittedly) burn mineral dexIII in 2k, hence why we run Transmax. The left hand pedal, when depressed correctly at the right time, activates the "create no superflous metal filings now" mode....Ben.

The option six is a 9.5" carbon twin, as used in the capa drift ute, and a lot of high hp cars. This is our toughest clutch at this time, and retails for $2650inc gst . The clutch is actually part of the flywheel, and comes complete inc ring gear. It is unlikely that an F6 clutch can be toughened to this level, via any means. Our option 5 is a 10.5" organic twin, and comes complete with a 4340 grade billet flywheel, ring gear and complete clutch assy. This will EASILY match an F6 clutch. Cost is $1990 inc gst, retail. Our option four is an 11" cera-metallic single, and also has great capacity. (I do not recall pricing for it, but it lies between the op3 and op5.) Seeing as you thought the F6 unit was $3500, and others have given a figure of approx $2700, then your above statement was posssibly in haste. No worries though, apology accepted. Ben.

Sounds like burnt factory oil. I would change ALL fluids and ensure coolant is in date, before storage. Leak is most likely from shifter if not from rear seal, it may have not been sealed down correctly. We fit 4 litres of oil, if you open the fill plug you will get at least 1/2 litre run out, if not more, as factory I6 fill is 4.8 litres. Actual metal filings, as opposed to a "shimmery" effect, is a bad thing. It is most likely metal from dog teeth, and as you have a problem with second that is the likely source. Most likely caused by rough/grinding shifts into second. does the car go into second cleanly? Does it jump out as you let the clutch out, or on decel, or just randomly? Ben.

Re the clutch design shown in this link, Clutch Industries had better be VERY careful about advertising a "unique design". It was unique when it was released in the mustang cobra terminator by Ford Motorsport US more than four years ago, now pretty well accepted as being a flawed theory, a bit like putting wets on one side of your car and slicks on the other and expecting it to handle all conditions. Ben.

There are other options Street car driven every day with a track day now and again = Cerametallic Strip weapon that's not driven in traffic every day =ceramic / Twin Plate D. ← This is why Mal Wood offer such a range of clutches. You have to remember that the option three is an 11" unit, not a 10.5" as shown in the first picture. The increase in capacity is huge. The highest output "T" that is running an option 3 that I know of has done 40 laps of Sandown with 440rwkw. Others in the V8 application have run a full season of GT/P with an organic. Option four is a 11" cera-metallic, option five is a 10.5" organic twin that we have holding 580rwkw turbo V8, and option six is the 9.5" carbon twin. Clutch selection is done on a case by case basis, and in a daily driver you steer away from exotic material unless there is no other option. As far as capacity goes, I challenge anyone to get a cover like the blue one shown out to 70% above std CLAMP PRESSURE. You will find that a lot of the entry level clutches are actually rated at % increase in clutch capacity, even if they are not worded as such. Therefore, they might have a std replacement (non OE) pressure plate that is 15% above std clamp, and they then calculate the increase in total capacity as a factor of this increase in clamp, and the increase in friction co-efficient by using metal pads. The one shown is just the "brass button" of old, and should not be used in a road registered car. Ben.