Just out of curiosity, what sort of power levels will I see with injectors and tune only?

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Depends on the tune mate, push it hard with high boost and timing, could see 300, but wouldnt be the smartest idea to run like that.

F6TEEN's phoon is a good example of what to expect from full exhaust and my V2/V3 High Flow IC kits on a BF F6.

No need for a plenum upgrade unless your going for high 300s plus.

Walbro's in utes seem to be supporting the power well, though I would upgrade the main power wire to it, just to make sure its always getting full voltage.

Exhaust wise, if the budget is tight, just do the cat, but make sure its got 3.5inch in/outs so it can be mated up to a decent 3.5inch system later one, same deal with for a dump later on.

You wont see 350 on only doing the cat, but it should see 330 with plenty of room to go up, atleast you'll know why its not going to 350.

With doing just the cat, you should see to much of a boost spike, so that will give you some time to get the wastegate done then get the rest of the exhaust sorted.

An electronic boost controller is a great idea, even a used Jap one off ebay is good buying.

But, if you upgrade the actuator, this will decide your lowest boost setting, so a 12psi actuator will only allow you to drop boost to 12psi. if your standard actuator isnt having problems bring boost up high, then no need to change, and you'll be able to drop the boost to 6psi for when the missus drives it.

Looks like your on the right track.

Cheers

Chris

Thank Chris.

The deciding factor is do I need 350rwkw. Will 330rwkw be enough and safe for the gearbox.

How many stock 6 speed autos are running around with 330-350 and above and how many gave in?

Cheers

Adrian

rapid may have another type of external pump setup

Edited November 4, 200817 yr by Tree Monkey

330 - 350 is fine for the zf Adrian. There's heaps running around & coping fine

Yeah that's the concern... seems to be plenty at 400 or close to it, and loads at 350 too.

I wouldnt be too concerned with the max power figure in regards to transmissions... its the torque that will kill it or make it last.

A tune that is huge through the midrange will be heaps harder on the box than one that isnt so agresive, but opens up higher in the revs... its the same deal with the rods.

You might see 380 on the dyno for example, but a fairly sedate tune that brings power on later in the rev range and lowers the stress on the box & motor.

or a 330 tune that comes on real low and feels super fast, but stresses the box and motor.

It can come down to how you drive aswell... dont put the foot down when its a low rpm and bring on high boost, change down then nail it

How does that work? Wouldn't it either be running extremely rich on the 12psi setting or extremely lean on the 15psi setting due to the map remaining the same & only boost changing??

The boost controler works on the same/one tune. It allows the waste gate to open at differant boost levels and relies on the map sensor and o2 sensor to fine tune it. The injector pulse will only be what is needed for that boost level so if you are useing say 60% duity cycle for 12lb boost on the loaded tune in the pcm and say 70% for the 15lb tune, when you set the controler the map sensor picks up 12 lb and the pcm duity cycles for 60%, hit the button and the waste gate holds till 15lb the map sensor picks that up and the pcm allows injectors to go th 70%. Just like you only give it 3/4 throttle the injector pulse is scaled to match throttle/load and temp. Well that is what I think any way.

Edited November 4, 200817 yr by Tree Monkey

What external pumps and tanks do you have chris?

I have a 3lt rear mounted surge tank, with two Bosche 044 pumps, fed by the factory intank pump. Its good for 1300hp if you go by the 044's ratings