Premium Sound Issues

[DBOSS]

My sub is blown also spoke to ford today and there going to replace it under warranty

[Guest FatBAt]

I got the same problem in MK1 Premium Sound setup.

I've had the sub replaced and it still happens. I will give the "loud" feature off thing a go on my way home today.

It's giving me the sh*ts...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Chances are Cro if the replacement sub didn't work, it's amp clipping. Once your amp has reached its (sustainable) output, anything above that, the speaker, without the power, is not capable of producing the note.

Like I said before, it can really burn a speaker but normally its the tweaters that go 1st. Subs are usually less affected.

If I could add an analogy at this point. Its like a standard XR6T v Modded XR6T. Why do do get very similar k/100lts. Reason is because the modded T is working less. We all no that!

The same can be said of amps. If you get a pair of 100w speakers and hook them up to a 50w amp, they will sound ok (albeit softer) until you crank it up. The amp is working its a$$ off to run them. Now plug the same speakers into a 125w amp and they will sound pretty much the same down low, but crank them up and the difference is noticable. You'll notice the volume dial is lower to produce the same dbs but the sound is far better.

that's why when you go and buy a set of speakers the sales guys hook them up to a 200w+ RMS amp without asking you what you have at home. They don't care. They're just trying to sell a set of speakers. By the way. I hate those special audio rooms they have for speakers. Hey! Salesman guys? Who the hell has a loungeroom with sound deadner all over it? Roof and all. Sheeesh! Like THAT'LL add value to yer home.

If I have left anything out, its just that I didn't want to bore anyone.

Cheers

[SavageF6]

When I crank up the volume with my prm soud, sometimes the l/h rear speaker pops. Have adjusted the bass etc, faded into front by one, has improved but then I can't get a lot of bass. If I turn the power limiter off it go's popping an farting away as soon as you turn it up above 24. Have anyone else had the same prob? Could the speaker be f###ed, only had the car about a week. Please help, awsome car but stereo is pissing me off, cheers.

BA Mk II?

Subs are bad Turf it and put in a JBL one all gone. There not ment for free to air but with the standard premo set up works better that the standard one.

What I did to mein any way.

Emuchwazit? Was it just a straight swap-over, no mods?

[Cro]

I got the same problem in MK1 Premium Sound setup.

I've had the sub replaced and it still happens. I will give the "loud" feature off thing a go on my way home today.

It's giving me the sh*ts...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Chances are Cro if the replacement sub didn't work, it's amp clipping. Once your amp has reached its (sustainable) output, anything above that, the speaker, without the power, is not capable of producing the note.

Like I said before, it can really burn a speaker but normally its the tweaters that go 1st. Subs are usually less affected.

If I could add an analogy at this point. Its like a standard XR6T v Modded XR6T. Why do do get very similar k/100lts. Reason is because the modded T is working less. We all no that!

The same can be said of amps. If you get a pair of 100w speakers and hook them up to a 50w amp, they will sound ok (albeit softer) until you crank it up. The amp is working its a$$ off to run them. Now plug the same speakers into a 125w amp and they will sound pretty much the same down low, but crank them up and the difference is noticable. You'll notice the volume dial is lower to produce the same dbs but the sound is far better.

that's why when you go and buy a set of speakers the sales guys hook them up to a 200w+ RMS amp without asking you what you have at home. They don't care. They're just trying to sell a set of speakers. By the way. I hate those special audio rooms they have for speakers. Hey! Salesman guys? Who the hell has a loungeroom with sound deadner all over it? Roof and all. Sheeesh! Like THAT'LL add value to yer home.

If I have left anything out, its just that I didn't want to bore anyone.

Cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think your onto something there.

The question is though, why does it degrade over time?

And if replacing the stocker under warranty is going to give me the same headaches in 12 months, what amp should I go for that can be a direct replacment for the current one. (fitting into the same space too).

I've tried turning the "loud" feature off, still got the problem.

I did fade the speakers front to back, balance left to right and mine is definately comming from the sub.

It seems to happen more when I drive hard, I.e. alternator/battery not giving it enough power?

[GlennAUII]

The subs are dodgy..

We had a BA MKII XR6 come in today with this issue and the sub was replaced with a new one. I give it about 3 weeks before the guy has the same issue again. They wear out.

[RAPHOON]

I did not have this with the T premo sound but seem to have it in the phoon.

The first time I heard it I nearly myself. It sounded like someone had just put a brick through the rear window.

Seems to happen when playing a track with meaty base on or about 22-24.

[GlennAUII]

it sounds like someones firing a cap gun almost

[Guest FatBAt]

I got the same problem in MK1 Premium Sound setup.

I've had the sub replaced and it still happens. I will give the "loud" feature off thing a go on my way home today.

It's giving me the sh*ts...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Chances are Cro if the replacement sub didn't work, it's amp clipping. Once your amp has reached its (sustainable) output, anything above that, the speaker, without the power, is not capable of producing the note.

Like I said before, it can really burn a speaker but normally its the tweaters that go 1st. Subs are usually less affected.

If I could add an analogy at this point. Its like a standard XR6T v Modded XR6T. Why do do get very similar k/100lts. Reason is because the modded T is working less. We all no that!

The same can be said of amps. If you get a pair of 100w speakers and hook them up to a 50w amp, they will sound ok (albeit softer) until you crank it up. The amp is working its a$$ off to run them. Now plug the same speakers into a 125w amp and they will sound pretty much the same down low, but crank them up and the difference is noticable. You'll notice the volume dial is lower to produce the same dbs but the sound is far better.

that's why when you go and buy a set of speakers the sales guys hook them up to a 200w+ RMS amp without asking you what you have at home. They don't care. They're just trying to sell a set of speakers. By the way. I hate those special audio rooms they have for speakers. Hey! Salesman guys? Who the hell has a loungeroom with sound deadner all over it? Roof and all. Sheeesh! Like THAT'LL add value to yer home.

If I have left anything out, its just that I didn't want to bore anyone.

Cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think your onto something there.

The question is though, why does it degrade over time?

And if replacing the stocker under warranty is going to give me the same headaches in 12 months, what amp should I go for that can be a direct replacment for the current one. (fitting into the same space too).

I've tried turning the "loud" feature off, still got the problem.

I did fade the speakers front to back, balance left to right and mine is definately comming from the sub.

It seems to happen more when I drive hard, I.e. alternator/battery not giving it enough power?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The reason it can degrade over time is becuse a speaker can distort without you even hearing it. If it is distorting, yes it will degrade over time.

I destroyed a pair of Aaron speakers on my home stereo. The outer edges of the drivers disintergrated. I now have a pair of (Aaron) speakers that are made of polyproperlyn (spelling?) which obviously last longer but more importantly, they respond so much faster. Speaker efficiency is the only way notes are produced crisp and tight.

Because I don't fully understand the specs of our premium systems, I can only speak generally. Does it have a dedicated "out" for the sub and at what power? What are the power rating of the subs? If the sub is rated the same as the output of the amp (or lower) replace the sub with a bigger one.

Best bet Cro would be to talk to someone that speacialises and tell them what you know now.

But the best advise I can give is to not turn your volume upto 24 with full bass and loud button on. Even if you had a $5000 system you can't crank them to that number. Like I said, your volume control should never see the other side of 12:00. The only way you can is to have a small amp and big speakers. But then it will sound like because the amp is working too hard.

If you like loud music, it sounds like you would be better off replacing the amp AND sub. If you go down that track though, you will also have to look at the rest of the speakers as well because the big amp will fry them. Oh where does it end.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

Cheers

[Guest FatBAt]

I did not have this with the T premo sound but seem to have it in the phoon.

The first time I heard it I nearly    myself.  It sounded like someone had just put a brick through the rear window.

Seems to happen when playing a track with meaty base on or about 22-24.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A brick through the rear window....

Is the power limiter and CD compression switched on in the menu settings. This should help. It does have its limits too though.

....A brick through the rear window....

Cheers

[Cro]

I think I'll live with it then

Can't expect much for a $900 upgrade, and it's still the best sound system I've ever had.

I'd rather get a DVD player in the car, or update the wheels/tyres or suspension than spend on sound

Cheers for the info though