Question About Injectors

[thebrunks]

I'd go a new pump & new injectors. Are they asking for your injectors as exchange??? You could either sell them or keep them for when you sell the car!

Russ

[blackwrx]

yep I will now ask to tune the car and get everything else done untill I can source some new injectors and pump or do a bit more research.

The guy doing the work has a pretty good reputation so he was proberly only trying to give me what I want!

But I did not realease drilling injectors and modifying the fuel pump could cause reliability issues!

What size Walbro are people fitting?

[XtRmn8]

If you are going to do injectors and pump later on then you might as well do them now! You will save yourself having to pay for another re-tune once new injectors and pump are fitted. If you keep your stock injectors then they are going to be pretty much maxed out at around 240-250rwkw, if that. With the combo that you have in mind you should be able to get a safer 260-270rwkw. Also bear in mind that your valve springs might not allow you to go this far.

If I was you I would hold out for a bit longer and also consider a bigger cooler and valve springs. Not sure how much valve springs are but a bigger cooler like the one mentioned in the recent thread for $550 should do you good. Its bloody hot here in Perth

If you get all of the above you will be pushing 300rwkw and your clutch and T5 will be in bits ............... it's never going to end hehehe

[blackwrx]

I like to do bit by bit otherwise I get bored once it's finished and think what's next!

I think I will be going one of thos $550 intercoolers, I think they looked OK!

[JB]

The stuff the guys have said is correct. You need to do your car in stages, as some of the mods you are doing are at later stages. As suggested you may as well do your injectors and fuel pump when you get the tune, saves a retune later on.

In relation to the injectors, once again do a search. Geea posted up all of the technical details of the injectors and I believe flow patterns were included. Personally with the testing that was done I would go with Eugene's or 968's. You can buy 968's for $120 each, get a fuel pump from ebay and your off. Whilst some people are using drilled injectors from Nizpro and they work fine, they will have limitations and if you are planning for further power down the track they will need to be changed as from the cars I have seen start to have issues at 300rwkw+.

I would try and do some of the ground work yourself like the 2nd CAI source your own injectors andd pump and that will save you alot of money. Your valve springs may need changing it will be dependant on your car, but for safety I would start to budget to have them changed at 270rwkw-280rwkw+ some have had more, others alot less. The best thing about putting in the correct parts means you can also change the car back to stock when required. I did this and within 1 day the car was back to factory specs. If you drill/modify your existing injectors and pump then you cannot go back.

If your were to do a template of mods you would go:

EDIT

2nd CAI with filter

Injectors and Fuel Pump

Valve Springs (When required)

CAT replacement (Whole exhaust not necessary yet)

Intercooler

Possibly clutch in a manual.

Basically look at it that if you start modifying existing parts you are tampering which something that was manufactured to operate in a certain way, change that and you may fall on reliability issues. By the right part for the job and you will have no concerns. Sometimes short cuts or doing things cheaper is not always the best option, particularly when it comes to something like $50k worth of car and fuel into your engine.

Cheers

JB

[Xtreme F6]

Whilst some people are using drilled injectors from Nizpro and they work fine, they will have limitations and if you are planning for further power down the track they will need to be changed as from the cars I have seen start to have issues at 300rwkw+.

I use them in mine and has seen over 400 rwkw's, I have fitted over 30 sets of the nizpro injectots and I know nizpro have done well over 100, I believe them to be a very good option.

[JB]

Ok, first have heard of that. There have been a number of people who have had to change them over when wanting to go 320rwkw onwards. Adam was one of them who had to fork out for 968's ontop of the Nizpro ones as they could'nt keep up with the requirements.

[geea]

First off, who will be doing the tuning. This is the most important item. All the best bits won't be worth sh*t if the tuner doesn't tune it right. The CAPA edit is a complicated tuning tool and it would be advisable to go to someone with a lot of experience with it.

As for the mods, here is what I would do if I was starting from scratch now.

I'd do as much as I could straight away and do as few steps as possible as each step will need a new custom tune. During the stages I would only get 1 tune done each time to keep the cost down and when I'm finished I'd then get all 3 tunes done. Here is what will generate more power in an order that it should be done in.

Edit with custom tune

2nd CAI- do some research a copy of the Typhoon setup is good.

Good quality air filter

If keeping the stock exhaust remove centre muffler.

The above will get you to around 245-260rwkw's

Bigger injectors-968's or Eugene

Bigger fuel pump- I'd go Bosch inline 600hp. Walbro intank is another option

To free up the pressure on exhaust valves you need to either do the valve springs or make the cat free flowing. This can be done by buying a high flow cat or by gutting the original cat.

The above will get you to around 300rwkw's and have you doing 11's in an auto.

Next step

Bigger intercooler-HPF,APS and Rajab are all great. No doubt there are other good options aswell.

Redo plumbing- I have CAI under where the battery was. (Battery is in boot).

This will get you to around 320-330rwkw's.

To go any further I'd look at putting stronger rods and pistons in the car.

Any mods that take you past 250rwkw's will involve making the driveline stronger. In the manual this would involve the clutch and in the auto you would need to looka at bands and clutches, trans cooler and possibly some valvebody work. A higher stall could be an option aswell.

Hope this helps.

Geea.

[Xtreme F6]

Ok, first  have heard of that. There have been a number of people who have had to change them over when wanting to go 320rwkw onwards. Adam was one of them who had to fork out for 968's ontop of the Nizpro ones as they could'nt keep up with the requirements.

well the ones that I use are bigger then the 968's, the early ones where around the same as a 968.

[Xtreme F6]

First off, who will be doing the tuning. This is the most important item. All the best bits won't be worth sh*t if the tuner doesn't tune it right. The CAPA edit is a complicated tuning tool and it would be advisable to go to someone with a lot of experience with it.

As for the mods, here is what I would do if I was starting from scratch now.

I'd do as much as I could straight away and do as few steps as possible as each step will need a new custom tune. During the stages I would only get 1 tune done each time to keep the cost down and when I'm finished I'd then get all 3 tunes done. Here is what will generate more power in an order that it should be done in.

Edit with custom tune

2nd CAI- do some research a copy of the Typhoon setup is good.

Good quality air filter

If keeping the stock exhaust remove centre muffler.

The above will get you to around 245-260rwkw's

Bigger injectors-968's or Eugene

Bigger fuel pump- I'd go Bosch inline 600hp. Walbro intank is another option

To free up the pressure on exhaust valves you need to either do the valve springs or make the cat free flowing. This can be done by buying a high flow cat or by gutting the original cat.

The above will get you to around 300rwkw's and have you doing 11's in an auto.

Next step

Bigger intercooler-HPF,APS and Rajab are all great. No doubt there are other good options aswell.

Redo plumbing- I have CAI under where the battery was. (Battery is in boot).

This will get you to around 320-330rwkw's.

To go any further I'd look at putting stronger rods and pistons in the car.

Any mods that take you past 250rwkw's will involve making the driveline stronger. In the manual this would involve the clutch and in the auto you would need to looka at bands and clutches, trans cooler and possibly some valvebody work. A higher stall could be an option aswell.

Hope this helps.

Geea.

becareful mate people might think you know what your talking about.