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  • In Your Face
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  • Member For: 23y 6m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Peninsula
Posted
Super Cheap does'nt stock Slick 50, they only have Nulon which is a copy. If anyone wants to try slick 50 make sure your car has done at least 15,000 KM.:badmood:

Cheers.

Brian.

Gday Brian now with the Slick 50 do you add it with the oil you use?

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  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 2m 6d
  • Location: Narre Warren STH
Posted
Super Cheap does'nt stock Slick 50, they only have Nulon which is a copy. If anyone wants to try slick 50 make sure your car has done at least 15,000 KM.:blink:

Cheers.

Brian.

Gday Brian now with the Slick 50 do you add it with the oil you use?

Hi george, yes you add it toyour oil and they recomend that you do about 5,000 KM before the oil is changed after adding the Slick. This gives the slick 50 enough time to bond itself to all friction surfaces.

Cheers,

Brian.

  • In Your Face
  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 6m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Peninsula
Posted
Super Cheap does'nt stock Slick 50, they only have Nulon which is a copy. If anyone wants to try slick 50 make sure your car has done at least 15,000 KM.:spoton:

Cheers.

Brian.

Gday Brian now with the Slick 50 do you add it with the oil you use?

Hi george, yes you add it toyour oil and they recomend that you do about 5,000 KM before the oil is changed after adding the Slick. This gives the slick 50 enough time to bond itself to all friction surfaces.

Cheers,

Brian.

Ok thanks Brian....got some today :blink:

  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 2m 6d
  • Location: Narre Warren STH
Posted

George, you wont notice much difference until you've done about 3000 KM on Slick. It will be interesting to see what you think. How much did it cost you?

Cheers. :smilielol:

  • In Your Face
  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 6m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Peninsula
Posted
George, you wont notice much difference until you've done about 3000 KM on Slick. It will be interesting to see what you think. How much did it cost you?

Cheers. :spoton:

I asked my mate at Autobarn for a good price $59 :o

  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 6m 17d
  • Location: Emerald Vic
Posted

This Slick 50 Stuff I havent heard of for years but the last time I did though I remember snake oil used in the same sentence. So I did a Google search and type in Slick 50 Snake Oil (if anyones interested).

Youll get mainly some opinions of others - much along the same line of fuel additives and whether they work or not which also can be a controversal issue as well so if you have time have a read.

The makers of Slick 50 were even investigated by some American Fair trading dept - but they are still going today so read into these things as you will but one would think it would sell if it didnt work.

I didnt post this to be flamed or to cause trouble just but it would be interesting to get others views - in both oil additives as well as Fuel additives and whether they work or not. eg the "Wyns" product line.

Scoot

  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 5m 8d
Posted
This Slick 50 Stuff I havent heard of for years but the last time I did though I remember snake oil used in the same sentence. So I did a Google search and type in Slick 50 Snake Oil (if anyones interested).

Its an often argued topic, that's for sure.

I personally think it is excellent. There is NO doubt it is one hell of a good lubricant. Its co-efficient of friction is way below any other commonly used car lubricant. From memory Slick 50 meets and exceeds all lubrication standards for cars.

I have only used it on older engines. It makes quite a difference. Probably not as much difference in a new car, but any decrease in internal friction is a good thing in an engine...all it can do is make your engine rev more freely and quicker.

Here are 2 examples I had on older Honda engines. They are no sh*t.

1) First time I used it was a few weeks after a tune-up on a carby engine. Did an oil change but the final litre of oil I used Slick 50 instead. (Slightly more than was stated for a 1600cc engine). I followed the instructions to the letter except for quantity, idling the car and slowly pouring it in. I was amazed that the more I poured, the faster the engien started running. By the end (a few mins after finished pouring in), the engine was idling at 2500 revs. I was amazed. The internal friction had decreased so much that this was the result. I then had to go get the car retuned. (This was 6 months before I learned to do that myself). Amazing. But this onlyhappened the first time I used it on that relatively old (but still in great condition) engine.

2) The car revved much better. I drive hard, and the car just loved to rev. Effortlessly. You can feel the lower internal friction.

3) This is my most amazing story. About 6 months later I did an oilchange. I had undone the sump bolt, and was sitting around letting the oil drain into the pan when the phone rang inside. I went in, and ended up having a lengthy argument with my girlfriend.

I came back outside, and wasnt thinking clearly. I poured the new oil into the car. It was summer and damn hot (36 degrees or so), so 5 mins later I decided to drive to 7-11 to grab a slurpee. I slammed the bonnet shut, jumped in the car, started it up, shoved it in reverse and shot out the drive.

I hammered it hard as usual to 7-11 which was about 4km away. Running it to redline each gear change. I got there, grabbed my slurpee then came out. As I approached the car I smelt something weird. Given my recent working on the car I thought I should opent he bonnet to check things. I opened it, and the whole underside of the bonnet was covered in oil. Sprayed *eveywhere*. There sitting loose on top of my engine was the engine oil cap. (And a corresponding permanent bump in my bonnet where I slammed it shut and it pinned against the engine cover).

Turns out I had forgotten to put the sump plug back in. The new oil I poured in went straight through and our the sump plug hole into the oil pan. After 5 mins when I slammed the bonnet shut and jumped in the car there was nooil cap on the car, no sump plug, and barely any oil left in it.: certainly none pooled in the sump!

As I hammered it to 7-11 the remaining bits were pumped out the engine oil fill hole on the top of my engine all over the underside of the bonnet.

When I got home I saw the ultra-full (2 lots!) oil pan on my driveway.

The car ran faultlessly for years after that despite being hammered every time I drove it. Never an issue.

I have no doubt I would not have got away with that on a 36 degree day if I wasnt using slick50. The engine would have seized as it had no lubrication, guaranteed. Not only did it not seize, but it ran just as well as it usually did.

If you ever get the chance to feel an engine part that's been in a slick-50 treated engine against the same part in an untreated engine, you will know what its all about: amazing lubrication that is bonded somehow to the metal. You cant rub it off once its bonded.

  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 6m 17d
  • Location: Emerald Vic
Posted

that's exactly the sort of experience which probaly why Slick 50 is still around today and why the knockers of the product havent been successful.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide Hills
Posted

Read a story in Custom Rodder in the late 70,s/early 80,s about a Torana LC/J 6 cylinder with a Nulon oil treatment that was driven from Melbourne with no oil in the sump to somewhere north of the city( Shepperton maybe,a reasonable distance anyway)oil light on all the way.It was pulled down and showed negligable engine wear.Used the stuff on every thing I've owned since then and have had no major mechanical failures.Seems to do the same job as Slick 50 ie ldle speed goes up slightly, no rattles with a cold start,better ecomony/power.

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