trist4nn

legend, helpful as always. old thread but just curious, do you generally use that gasket between turbo and manifold that comes with that kit? mine never had one oem but curious if it helps and is worth chucking in.

@Puffwagon point is taken, ive got enough mixed signals about this already that I am tempted to pay someone I trust to do it. with the turbo line tap, theres a few parts im uncertain about. I think get the basic layout youre describing, I'd be effecitvely replacing that feed hose to the turbo (one with with the inline filter) with a connection straight out of the cooler. I'd intended to use an oil thermostat to avoid overcooling, but tapping in there (at least how I remember things) is a tiny line, which might preclude me from using existing oil thermostat and existing oil cooler, as they're expecting a -10 or thereabouts. maybe I could step that up to an10, but it feels like ive taken a wrong step if im adapting whats probably 1/3 the size hose up to a giant one. ill have to go stare at it in the morning. it's definitely giving me a lot to think about. I regret already buying parts.

gotcha that makes sense. I might have to double down on trying to find one.

ahh I see that's a totally different piece than I was imagining. so it must plumb to an external heat exhanger somewhere? cant quite see from the photos but does it divert *all* oil flow through the fittings out the bottom and back in? if so its basically just doing the same job as the sandwich plate ive got here. whatever it is plugged in to heat exchanger wise might be the key, if I can find that part. also yes sorry this isnt trans cooler related now, I've a standalone thread that would keep it out of the way.

@Puffwagon makes sense conceptually but I cant quite get my head around how id physically tap and return the oil flow there. been a while since I looked at it, but I remember it being a mess of banjo fittings stacked into each other, cant really remember clearly though. all of the external oil coolers ive seen for this car are sandwich plates that pick up the oil post filter on its way back in. @hjtrbo wish I could answer. far as I can see BA does not have an oil temp sensor. was in the process of installing one when I went down this wormhole. all I can say is the car has had issues with pretty much every other liquid in it. radiator was at its limits, power steering gets so hot it comes out the res, diff overheats. I know I shouldnt upgrade things without first measuring it, but this car gets a fairly hard time and I cant easily run my oil temp sensor without the sandwich plate that needs an oil cooler plumbed into it haha

that does make some sense, I'd rather cool it *after* its done its most important work but conversely, I want to put some sensors on the car (oil temp/pressure) and was planning to just stuck them on the sandwich plate. its chess not checkers this cooling business.

thought I'd make a standalone thread. would like to add oil cooling to a tracked ba xr6t. got as far as ordering some bits (aeroflow competition cooler, oil thermostat, -10 an lines) all seemed good to go, but some posts have suggested that external oil cooling might cause too much of an oil pressure drop. I'm a little bit stuck there, as it seems like plenty of people have ran external coolers in the past, PWR used to sell a kit etc. I would have fit an oil pressure sensor at the same time to keep an eye on things, but I'm getting cold feet about it now. far as I can see, the f6 style sandwich plate heat exchanger is not very easy to obtain now, so I'd really prefer to make the above work. appreciate any input. dont feel right charging ahead without getting some more clarity.

ive just been sleuthing around that and the factory fpv style cooler (which you arent allowed to buy without an f6 vin now! limited release) I might be mistaken, but it seems like an older BA engine lacks the mounts for either of the above. I have the old style with larger oil filter, certainly cant see any way these type of sandwich heat exchangers would mount.

I'd not really considered that, I reasoned that if the factory style water to oil cooler worked then why wouldnt an air to oil cooler. can you tell me any more about the differences? is air to oil cooling simply not possible without oil pump work? looking at the f6 assembly it seems there is a lot less distance to pump it, if I understand correctly the heat exchanger comes right off the block where the oil filter goes, is that the key difference?

know this is an old thread but worth a crack! can anyone provide pictures or instructions for how the 'rear mount' coolers fit on a BA (or possibly BF..)? I'm running a massive radiator and intercooler, there is functionally zero clearance between them. I've also made a slight mistake and gone slightly too large on the new cooler size, so im not super confident about fitting it behind the foglights. From what I can see, the old PWR kits (I say old, I certainly cant find them anymore) used to mount somewhere under the car, but I'm not having much luck finding any good documentation about exactly where that went. for what its worth im using this for oil cooling, not trans, I just noticed that gearbox cooling is much more often discussed and they're broadly the same job. cheers.

Cheers that sounds good, it felt a bit funny running almost entirely water, I'll go with the ratios above and use 33% glycol. So far all I've done is fill and drain with demin water and some radiator cleaner to try and purge as much old sh*t out as possible, haven't done a proper fill with real coolant, Id say she's taking a bit over 10l after a drain (just draining from radiator bung) regarding the wiring, I cleaned/sanded both the main chassis ground and the ground strap. From what I could see those grounds actually make contact through the bolt threads, the chassis (was) completely painted. Mine didn't seem in bad condition but not sure about the design haha. My old Toyota's ground like this and its almost constantly goes wrong. What I'm thinking is I'll get it bled up on a real coolant mix with inhibitor, then if the readings are still sh*te I'll bring more grounding work.

another question @JETURBO, when you say use a coolant inhibitor: ive picked up some penrite green coolant inhibitor, would you recommend running this additive & deminerailised water and that's it? this is what the box suggests, but its for cars that dont 'require' antifreeze/antiboil. im not necessarily sure if I do or not.. or would you 'add' this inhibitor into a traditional glycol/deminerised water mix, like a 30/70 or whatever. thanks again

thanks heaps for the help mate. im having a poke around the earthing systems and working through the points you mentioned. car has had a little bit of electronic work done on it that I wasnt involved in, battery reloc behind front bumper, but it all seems high quality using premade process west cables, ill voltage drop test it all when I can run the car again. just want to confirm if im full of sh*t here, but ive traced out my negative circuit going: battery post (behind front bar) -> inside airbox post -> under fusebox -> single ground ring terminal bolted to drivers side chassis rail, right near the chassis to engine earth strap and drivers side engine mount. is that seriously the only ground point from the battery to the chassis? I've got a workshop manual somewhere here which ill try to confirm with, but to my eye its that single terminal is it and its tiny. also I might again be wrong, but theres no hard connection from battery to engine block, that's done via the chassis and the ground strap? If so, I'll definitely upgrade it to some thicker wire, you mentioned preterminated, is that an off the shelf product or should I just measure the length of my old one and get one made up? again much appreciated. shame youre in adelaide or id just bring it in to you haha.

have put the big rad in, was a bit of a song and dance to make the factory shroud fit but it seems ok! what I'd really like help with is how much electrolysis is too much, and how I should go about finding it? I took a volt reading between neg battery post and my coolant with the old rad, showing about 0.18v idle to about 0.2v with all accessories on. at least according to the pwr owners manual this is too much, could anyone tell me what readings theyve found to give an idea of mine is out of ordinary? and if it is, where should I start looking to try and eliminate it before I run this expensive rad. old vs new and the tightish fitment. hope my engine mounts are good

Thanks mate, I took the plunge and ordered it. Do you recall if running the OEM thermostat was ok on these? I've heard the higher efficiency rad will mean the thermostat opens prematurely on the street and keeps it too cold.