fox1972

Most of the bottom end will be machined and assembled by PLR Racing in brisbane, as well as the head fully serviced. The rest I'll assemble myself. The turbo may have too be replaced as I have a bit of in out shaft play, the bearings do still sound good on shut down though. I was thinking Pulsar GTX3584RS GEN2. All the stuff around the house the missus wanted has finally been completed so she's given me the green light for this build. I was going to try and squeeze out around 350 rwkt's with the existing engine, but I'm not so confident in it holding together, although some have gone a lot higher with out issues. Do it right first time.

I was eyeing off the F1 Cosworth pistons atomic has. It would be an e85 beast with them. However the cost of the pistons is equivalent to the above linked spool kit. I'm not chasing 1000hp so I deemed it not really necessary. Nothing wrong either with JE pistons. I had a set of forged JE pistons in another build years ago and they certainly proved themselves.

Rear cradle has to be removed anyway to replace the flogged out bushes. I had the car up on the hoist the other day at work and their stuffed lol. I'll install the exhaust at the same time a week or so before going back to do a re-tune as clint at profile is usually booked out for months. Car wont be happy with that exhaust on it's current tune. IMS diff hat and a trutrack will be added at the same time. I think I'll go with the ultrex as you suggested. The only thing I didn't like about the KS exhaust was the tips were not staggered.

Thanks guys...so many options available from spool to atomic and so many more. I've just upgraded the brakes to full front and rear brembos , first priority...and have a jonny tig 2200hp intercooler kit coming. I've been looking at the spool kits for a while, good gear at a good price. I was looking at this kit from spool.https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-xr6-conrods-and-ross-racing-forged-pistons Atomic has a similar kit. I'm ready to start buying the parts that I need for the build, most of the external parts anyway. The internal parts decision will be made depending on the outcome of the block machining. Undecided which 4" exhaust to get atm. which will be the next thing I get. Just undecided whether to purchase the ultrex full 4" or the Ks Racing full 4" which are about the only 4" systems available atm. regards

Hi all... I currently have a BA Series II Xr6 turbo sedan with a 6 speed manual. It's currently running 280 rwkwt tuned by clint at profile. I want more power. Current mods.. Heavy duty valve springs Venom high flow cat Walbro 460 in tank pump Oil line turbosmart blow-off siemens 60lb injectors oil catch can mal wood option 3 plus clutch Everything else stock. I'm looking at building a new engine. My target power range is 500-600 rwkt's. I have gone threw various threads and the info is quite overwhelming and sometimes confusing. All I want is a really good reliable engine with the right parts that will do the job whilst trying to save money on Unnecessary parts it probably wont need. I'm not sure what rods or pistons to use, what size turbo, etc. Should I go with a 6 boost manifold and aftermarket inlet...what exhaust, ks racing 4", ultrex 4" x-force etc etc. The car is a daily driver, and I don't do burnouts or flog the rev limiter. Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be great. Regards..

Hi everyone.... I have a BA Series II XR6T with the standard suspension...nothing modified. I'm shortly about to purchase some 19 inch Vertini magic concave wheels (as soon as their back in stock). Available widths are 8.5, 9.5, 11. I can pretty much choose what offset I want. My question is....what width and offset should I run on the front and the rear. I want it to look sporty but neat and clean looking...after all...I am 50. Regards..

Thx for the reply guys... The panels will be removed from the car, preped and sprayed in a controlled environment. The doors, rear quaters and front left guard are fine....thank goodness. Thx k31th for the DuPont comment...for some silly reason, I keep thinking dulux. Puffwagon...I have watched quite a few of his video's and many others....anyway...I'll post a few pics up tomorrow of the paint damage. It also had pin striping that has burned into the paint on the bonnet and rear bootlid, and 1500 grit sandpaper will not remove it lol. Anyway, I'll post a few pic's soon. Regards

Hi guys... I live in Hervey bay Qld, I have a BA 2005 series II XR6 Turbo, 6 speed manual, Mercury Silver...tuned by Clint at profile. Where I live, my car is exposed to the sun daily...all day. The uv exposure here is terrible to car paint, as most cars around town, have their clear coat breached and peeling. Because I couldn't put my car under a carport or similar, I had no choice but to resort to a car cover. However, even tied down, the cover would rub due to the windy days, and eventually the clear coat on some of my panels have been breached. The bonnet's clear is 1/4 gone, the rear wing is the same as with the front right guard. I have no choice but to repray these panels. I have a decent pretty good Black Ridge compressor 50ltr 2.5hp....max cfm is around 6 I think. I do have an outstanding LVLP spray gun set at 1.3mm with a nice 280mm fan at 18psi for base and 22psi for clear. Iv'e done many small projects, but none to this scale. My question is, what brand of paint should I use, eg...dulux...or any other paint advice on the xr6. Do's, don'ts....helpful advice would be appreciated. Regards Al

Just to add more too this discussion to help others out....I know it's an old thread. My problem was the pins behind the big white connector, and the green connector. The green connector would cause the screen too flick on and off as well. I re-soldered all these pins, including the pins D4V1D pointed out. Fixed..... Also, the Main Pluck/plug attached to the chazy had broken guides so the plug would not go into the ICC properly. I was a little worried about breaking this but I really had no choice...The interesting part is, the lead looks really short, but it's not. The black plastic shroud/cover behind the plug, is actually taped to the loom tight making it appear short. I broke away the black plastic cover...pulled it out, undone the tape, and the plug extends out almost half a foot. I wrapped it with black tape to keep the wiring nicely together. I then ran a long cable tie behind the plug on the ICC...then plugged it in easily, then cable tied it...I know theirs only 1 cable tie in the image, but I ran two in the end, and threaded them through the wires so their was only pressure on the plug, and plugged in evenly. Also when you slide the ICC back, guide the wire back straight otherwise it will kink and the ICC wont go back into place. I hope this helps out anyone with the same issue. Once you removed that black shroud, it is so easy to do. You have plenty of room to work with. Regards..

Hi Guys, I've been offered a set 6 piston brembo calipers off a 2017 mustang for $1300 with disks. Will these fit Ba Series II xr6t provided I use the correct brackets and brake lines. Clint from profile recently tuned my car at 320rwkt's and the standard brakes simply don't cut it. I used to own A TE-50 series III that had 4 piston brembo's, but upgraded them to 6 piston calipers off a BA GT which were awesome. Did a lot of track days at eastern creek / Wakefield park and tarmac rallies and they were simply outstanding with a good set of ferrodo street track pads. Any advice would be helpful. Regards

Thx jet... That's all I need to know. I wasn't sure if I could just pull the box away on it's own, without removing bell housing, mainly due to the hydraulic line to the concentric. I have the ba workshop manual, but it doesnt have the t56 specs in the book I've got. True true..... I'm totally over with getting under the car, getting to old for it, but I cannot get it in the shop, because I won't have the part till next week, and all the shops here close for xmas next wednesday, and will not resume till the 11th of next month. I'm not waiting that long.

Hi everyone, I have a Ba Xr6t MkII manual with the t56 6 speed. The other day my concentric slave failed in my box, and I have fluid dripping out of the bell housing. I ordered a new concentric slave from mal wood with the remote bleeder to replace it. In the past, I have pulled out heaps of T5's but never a T56. Can someone that has done one, just walk me through on the removal procedure. Regards

I had exactly the same issue with may ba xr6t 6speed. The only way I could get pedal, was to constantly pump the clutch all the time. It drove me crazy. I also wasn't sure if it was master or slave cylinder. And I wasn't losing fluid also. How I did find out it was the master. I got a heap of thick bearing grease, and packed it, where the small piston rod enters the master cylinder. This sealed it for about a day, the clutch was fine, but then the clutch pedal would slowly go limp again. So it was fairly obvious, every time I used the clutch, it would suck air. I replaced it and has been fine...till today. Today I got in my car, and had no clutch pedal. I checked the fluid, and had none. So I topped it up, finally got pedal again after pumping it like a mother**cker. Drove 50 meters and had no clutch again. Checked fluid, none again. I filled it up again, got pedal, then drove down the road and back and it seemed fine........weird......I think it's the concentric this time, unless the line between the master and the concentric has crack...to wet atm to look.

I've booked it in with clint at Profile autosports. Going to replace fuel pump, cat and ignition coils at the same time. regards

Yeah it's a generic tune. Was kinda hoping for better, or maybe I did something wrong. In the past, when I lived in Sydney, Spiro at autotech did most of my cars. But in QLD now for a few years, as most previous cars were fpv v8's. Any recommendations for a good tuner in QLD. I live at Bunderberg, but I hear a tuner at toowoomba is pretty good. Any other recommendations for a good tuner in QLD..??

Hi all, I have an BA XR6 turbo MKII with a 6 speed manual. This vehicle is fully stock, apart from crow valve springs I had installed a few months ago when the head had to be removed to replace the head gasket. A week a go, I ordered the SCT X4 tuner with injectors from a quite known performance provider. I got the valet tune, 8psi and 10 psi pre- loaded tunes. Today I decided to install the new injectors, which I did. I installed the 10psi tune, took it for a run, and was very dissapointed. I was expecting a 60RWKT difference, but it's more like a 5Kwt difference. The boost gauge definatley says it's running 10psi, but to be quite frank, the standard factory tune is better. For example....factory tune...in first gear....driving and holding steady at 3000rpm, I nail it...and the rears will squeal like hell....I do the same with 10psi tune...nothing. I'm so confused...any idea's....?? Regards