joffa1

A good set of Ford 17 inch rims with 235/45/17 tyres has come up at a good price. Would this setup provide enough grip for an unmodified fg turbo? Or is 245 the minimum width required...

Yeah I took a look at that and saw that the mm difference for the 245/40 profile is more than I thought. All good sticking with same profiles for now. Will look to change all 4 tyres and possibly rims at same time down the track. Thanks for your help.

The 17s are too junk so keeping the 19s for now. Given that does anyone have a definitive answer on whether it’s ok to run a 245/40/19 or even a 245/45/19 on the rears and a 245/35/19 on the fronts? Once the fronts wear out I will replace them with exact same tyres as the rears. dont want to drive around on the spare much longer so would love a definitive answer. Thanks.

Ok I think I’ll bite the bullet and buy the 17s with the 45 profile tile on them. At least I’ll have a spare set of rims even if I’m not happy with the ride on them. Cheers.

Have someone selling a set of clean 17s now but with good tyres on and I’m assuming a 45 profile on a 17 inch rim would give a smoother ride? I.e. road noise and bumps not quite as harsh?

I actually looked at going down to 17 or 18 rims and running a higher profile tyre. Had a nice set with good tyres lined up but bloke sold them before I got there. Still keeping an eye out. Ok so 255 width on rear should be ok. What about a slightly higher profile. I.e. 40 on rear and keep the 35 up front? I would imagine this would be ok?

Great help. Thanks mate.

Sorry my bad! 245/35 on the fronts I guess I’m hoping to go wider for more grip and a higher profile to smooth out the ride a little if that helps? with a view to going a higher profile up front once they wear out too.

Or someone just recommend me some good rear tyres given I have 19 inch factory rims and 235/45/19s on the front? cheers.

Hi guys quick one have Factory 19 inch rims on my FG XR6T Ute, running Kumho 245/35/R19s on front wheels destroyed one of my rear tyres the other day but both rear were pretty low on tread anyway so going to replace rears (still plenty of tread on the fronts). My question is is can I run a wider and slightly higher profile tyre on the rears? have a good deal on some Hankooks 275/40/R19s so basically just want to know if it’s ok to have a 40 profile on the rear and a 35 on the fronts and if I can go this wide also? thanks for any advice!

Ok cheers

Ok great... could you go into a little more info regarding linkages? What to look for where etc? Thanks again.

Was also going to ask while I’ve got a few components removed and decent access around the turbo is there any other things I can look out for/maintenance I can do? I’ve got use of another car for a week so thought I might do some other bits and pieces while it’s up on stands. Fyi 2012 fg xr6t manual with just shy of 100,000. I’ve done gearbox oil, diff oil, engine oil and filter, tightened up manifold bolts. Was thinking wd40 on the boost solenoid... anything else jump out... cleaning of throttle body, intake components maybe?

Awesome mate thanks for the run through very helpful.

For benefit of those interested it’s a 20mm blind hole and I will take advice given and try a m8 20mm bolt threaded all the way.

All good mate thanks

Yeah I guess it’s the opposite, my thinking is that the damaged part of thread hole is right at the end so if the newer shorter bolt tightens up the component before it gets to the damaged part eureka. Anyway Could be wrong but I’ll get there. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it and sense some narkiness coming on so I’ll stop! cheers mate

I think around $100 from memory. It’s ok it’s on its way already so prob just use it. Yeah its 8mm hole. Haven’t stuck any wire in yet will do tomorrow as spent most of day just cleaning off all the underbody and removing the split line and doing diff oil tightening manifold bolts etc. the fact that the bolt would do up tightly without the metal gasket in there is interesting. Correct me if im wrong but if the damage to the thread hole is right near the bottom then wouldn’t a shorter bolt be what I need?

That’s a good idea with the all thread bolt. Didn’t realise til this morning that they didn’t thread all the way. Nice easy solution. Was kind of looking forward to doing my first tap! Anyhoo have picked up a bit of knowledge for when I need to do it down the track. Cheers. You reckon a hose join is a good idea or just use the part I ordered?

For those interested this is what I’ve pulled out. Real piece of crap part as you can see it just split in two at the top rib. A car with 90,000kms on it only. Very disappointing. Getting to the turbo end of the drain line is easy enough. One bolt very easy to get to once you unbolt the coolant reservoir and the other much more challenging but can be done from underneath the vehicle with two extensions in my case. They aren’t torqued down that tight so not too bad just a little awkward. contemplating cutting the ribbed section off, connecting with some hose and tightening down with a couple of hose clamps. I have ordered a replacement but could probably return that if the hose join does the job.

I just tried to tighten it up again without the metal gasket in there and it tightens up pretty tight. Didn’t want to press my luck but I was surprised... But blind means closed doesn’t it? So a longer bolt won’t work.

Ok great thanks for input. Today and tomorrow are the first opportunity to get some proper time to work on this. I have another car for the week so pressure is off a bit. Will keep you posted. I was under the impression it’s a blind hole but haven’t checked depth yet. Its only the lower bolt hole that has a damaged thread the top one is fine. Are the metal gaskets like the one that was in there ok or is there a better alternative?

So this is the info I’ve gathered: 1. Take off damaged oil return line and clean thoroughly around sump etc. 2. mark depth of damaged threaded hole and transfer to drill bit 3. drill with 11/32 bit (grease bit and vacuum as I go, also go in and back out to clean swarf out as getting deeper) 4. ffs don’t drill too deep 5. use appropriate tap to accept m10 bolt 6. use new gasket and some gasket sealant and install new line 6. drop oil, strain oil and refill And in regard to the tap I need to use a taper lead tap first then a bottoming Tap as it’s a blind hole? This is the really unclear part for me.

Yeah that’s what I meant. Didn’t think it would work but someone suggested it earlier. So so there’s no way of repairing the existing thread rather than drilling larger and tapping new thread?

I’m assuming being a blind hole then a longer bolt is not an option?