Hezabot

I've got a m78 diff with 3.46 diff gears and wanting to know if I can put them into a m86 diff also I've got an m86 lsd that I'm going to be putting a truetrac into and wondering if the lsd in that would fit into the m78? Any information would be helpful. Might sell the lsd centre if anyone is interested

Yea that's how most people do it but I wanted it as close to factory specs as possible as I like the way they do it because it's open every time you hit the brake even if your doing 150. I could have it wired to both but it's already done the way it is

what would wiring it in to the reverse lights have to go with anything? That would just mean it's engaged when the reverse lights are on so it would have to already be in reverse to activate lockout? I know it's not required, but I would like it as that's how it comes from factory.

I've converted car from t5 to t56 (ba xr6) and used the whole clutch setup from the t5 (xtreme heavy duty about 15xxxkms) and it's got a rattling/tinging noise coming from box region. I believed that it was due to the fact that I didn't use a t56 spigot bearing, I thought the diameter of the t5 was bigger and that would mean it would have movement (looked around and found there is only 1 bearing for all manual models). What's the go here, didn't have the noise with the t5. Can hear noise when idling and when taking off, no so much when cruising along.

So I've just converted my ba to t56 out of a bf xr6t and bought a 'wiring kit' for the reverse lockout from accutach and my electrician wired it to the speedo but not clutch pedal (when I picked it up it was constantly engaged and wouldn't get hard, now it's hard and would engage) he told me that it was a bit sticky so I'm gonna buy a new one but was wondering if I was sitting at the lights (say 5-10minutes) it's engaged the whole time, could this cause damaged being on for so long?

Upgrading the brakes on my ba xr6 to the bfxr6t and I know the disc size is bigger but notice that the pads are the same size? What's the go with that? Wouldn't it just be the same braking performance since it's covering the same out of space on the rotor? Does the upgrade eve make a difference ?

Ok will have a look into that, also I've sent you a private message

There's a lot of money to be saved by me taking it out my self

Yea putting the turbo rotors on 323mm, that means callipers have to be changed so the old discs won't work I will need new ones. I may go brembos down the line but for now I just want these because I know how much better they are on stock discs and pads so I can imagine a decent set

Alright so I've got a N/A ba xr6 with standard brakes (have got Dba t2 discs and hpx qfm pads) like the discs not a fan of the pads. I'm going to the bf turbo Calipers, will be buying new discs wanna know people's opinions on if the extra bit of money is worth it and I should buy the t3s or just use t2s? what pads should I use, can't stand the hpx's or the bendix ultimates (mainly because of noise. What's some alternatives? braided lines - what's a good brand? I've been looking at goodridge on Ebay... also should I stick with the na booster or go a turbo one? If turbo one will it fit my car has abs but no traction control.

Never welded in my life They are mates that have welded once or twice, they know nothing. They think they can do it but can't, would rather throw my money down the toilet

Yea I know that but don't have a welder, know a couple people with one but not willing to let them do it. Want someone who actually knows

So I'm looking at getting the Independent Motorsport diff hat upgrade but I'm in sa and I'm gonna take the cradle off my self. Who can I go see to get the old mount taken off and the new one welded on?

By that I meant if I took the cradle out, I'm going to be doing all the work myself so it will be nowhere near that. I'll take the cradle somewhere and pay someone to take old bushes out and put new ones in. If I had the cash I would defiantly be going that way

I've been looking into that, $1000 though. Not sure if that was the price installed or not. Would like to do it but don't have the cash at the moment.

So I've just converted my ba xr6 to a t56, got the diff with conversion (3.73 lsd) I'm gonna put a truetrac in it and while I'm at it I'm gonna do all the rear end bushes. I was told by a differential shop here in sa not to I <3 Bananas around with after market bushes cause the standard rubber ones are always better. Can anyone confirm this, or if you have after market ones please let me know as I will be doing this with in the next week.

Yea I spoke to him last night quoted me 100-200 depending if it needs dyno time

Why do you say that, you Not a fan of his work?

I just sent him a message then, when you say tune what do you mean? I had my car tuned no to longs ago from Heinrich and wasn't cheap so hoping that's not what you mean.

How do I go about doing that ? I'm in Adelaide

So I've just converted my ba xr6 from t5 to t56 and now cruise control won't work in 5th gear. It will work in 4th and 6th no problems but doesn't want a bar of 5th, I've tried different speeds/rpm and still nothing. Anyone encoutered this problem or heard of it before?

Motor has 50xxx kms and would rather have original do numbers are all matching. also people seem to be saying this is really expensive, can you please explain what you call expensive?

Alright so as the title says I want to turbo my n/a ba xr6 (no I don't wanna put a turbo engine in or sell and buy a turbo). I some what know what I need to do to get this done (getting a bit of information here and there), I came here because I want in depth knowledge from people that have done this. I'm looking at around the 330-400rwkw range. List of parts I've been told I'd need - valve springs intercoooler and piping conrods and pistons (maybe) turbo (obviously) Tune injectors fuel pump drive shafts exhaust (looking at a stainless xforce, not sure about size as I'm not one for having a really Loud car but don't wanna loose performance) upgrades for the box (stronger syncros, better input shaft) Heavy duty clutch (already have one but will be replaced once all this has been done) I need someone that can not only tell me what I'm missing but also suggest what parts to use - brand and model and why. at the moment it has a t56 in it out of a bf xr6t I also grabbed the diff because of the ratios. Before I put diff in I will be putting a truetrac in it and getting all my diff bushes done at the same time (any advice of bushes to use would be great) also I got the whole bf cradle, so do I use the one in my car or the bf (it's an early 06 bf I've got a may 04). Once diff is out to put the 'new' diff in I will also be putting in whiteline adjustable control arms because I'm running 275/30-20 and it's lowered. Im sorry to be a pain in the ass, but I wanna get this right the first time. I don't want some guy from the car shop telling me what I need cause that's what he makes more money on (don't really know of any good people in Adelaide to be going through to buy these parts or to get advice, any knowledge in this area would also be much appreciated). If I've missed something please let me know and I will reply as soon as I can, thank you.

Yea I just got that pic of Google, If I do it is like to go with something well known (like white line) Mena took to get wheel alignment the other day and he said it's only got the adjustment for tow. Was reading a few forums and looks like there was certain months/years that didn't have it, just got an unlucky one I guess

White line do a set of arms for about $350 or can get a set of nolathane for around $300 (off eBay), I've never been to much of a fan of nolethane so I'll be using white line.