awill4x4

Mika, here is the info direct from Denso (one of the world's largest radiator manufacturers. Regards Andrew. Cooling System Flushing Procedure. Because coolant/inhibitors from different manufactures have different chemical compounds, which may adversely react if mixed, it is important that you DO NOT create a chemical cocktail within your cooling system by mixing different brands of coolant/inhibitor. Even though the coolant has been drained from the system, the inhibitors remain affixed to the cooling system components and must be chemically removed, using a quality alkaline flush. Procedure: 1: Ensure the cooling system is sound and free from leaks and check all components for wear and condition. If need, replace worn components. 2: Choose a quality alkaline cooling system flush (500mL. Per 12 Litres). Observe the instructions on the container. 3: Replace the radiator cap and run the engine at operating temperature for 15 minutes in 4 cylinder vehicles and 30 minutes in 6 or 8 cylinder vehicles. (Ensure the vehicle heater is turned on). 4: Drain and rinse the cooling system including the overflow bottle and heater core. At this point a power flushing machine may be used if this equipment is available. And/or: 4a). Rinse the system with clean water until you are convinced that the only fluid remaining in the system is clean water- RINSE- RINSE- RINSE (this may need to be refilled and drained a number of times). 5: Refill the cooling system using clean water (demineralised or distilled water), to perform a stray current check. 6: Do not add coolant at this time until a complete stray current check has been performed (refer to stray current procedure). The presence of stray current will deteriorate the cooling fluid quality immediately. Always ensure you select a coolant/inhibitor that meets the vehicle manufacturers recommendation or one that meets AS 2108-97 Type A or Type B whichever is recommended as being in support of the vehicles manufacturers recommended coolant performance standard. 7: Ensure the correct rates of coolant/inhibitor is used, as overdosing or underdosing will have a direct affect on the performance of the cooling system and the life of the components including the radiator. 8: Only after the vehicle has been cleared of the possibility of stray current (electrolysis). Rebuild the cooling fluids by first adding the selected product then topping up with clean water (demineralised or distilled water). NOTE: NEVER MIX TWO BRANDS OF COOLANT! 9: Mix a portion of the coolant for the owner to use for topping up coolant level. Dispose of Waste Fluid Correctly. NOTE ! Radiator manufacturers warranty does not cover internal or external corrosion.

Yep, another company which takes its quality seriously, and they use Adrad cores as well. Regards Andrew.

This is the standard of welding quality which can be achieved with care, experience and attention to detail. My next project is a water to air intercooler on a Turbo EL Falcon (note, on this I/cooler I used a K&J/ PWR core) Regards Andrew.

As I was saying about the quality of the Aussie cores, here's a couple of pics showing their core construction. I have used both cores in the past, personally I have a leaning towards the Adrad one, I believe it to be stronger than the K&J (PWR) core with a better air flow through the header plate assembly. It is almost to bar and plate standard in the way it's finished so close to the header plate. In comparison the K&J core has protruding tubes which will probably interfere slightly with the airflow, but the internal finning on the K&J core is superior in my opinion, there may be a slightly better cooling on the K&J but the pressure drop may also be slightly worse than the Adrad one. Either way, these 2 manufacturers produce a world class quality product, far superior to the Chinese imports in both quality and more particularly, strength. Regards Andrew.

I'm a specialist Tig welder in the motorsport industry and the main problem is the fact that all the work is "custom" and this takes time, and time equates to money. When your producing welding work to world quality standards it's frustrating when people say ( I can get one on ebay for $200) and they can as they are all mass produced in China with weld quality I wouldn't personally be proud of. For example a quality custom core from PWR or Adrad will start at $400 and go up from there. Personally I'm a fan of tube and fin as the construction is stronger than the more complicated bar plate. Have a good look at some of the cheap Chinese tube and fin cores and compare to PWR or Adrad, the difference is noticable side by side with poor internal finning (turbulators) and the furnace brazing on the cores is not up to the PWR/ Adrad standard as well.

Looking at the pics of the ASE I/cooler I'm sure they are using an Adrad tube and fin core. I've built intercoolers using both PWR and Adrad cores and in my opinion the Adrad cores are the better ones by far. I'd even go as far to say they are the best intercooler cores anywhere and that includes the fabled "Garrett" cores. Their construction as a tube and fin is the strongest I've seen, better than PWR and much better than bar & plate. Where the tubes come through the header plate assembly they are nearly flush very similar to that of bar & plate but much better than PWR which extend about 5-6mm through the header plate assembly. The leading edge of the Adrad core tubes are thicker, giving better protection from rocks. The internal tube turbulators are excellent on both PWR and Adrad. Both PWR and Adrad cores are however, expensive, I can't buy a bare core for less than a complete build up cheap Asian bar & plate one. Below is a pic of an Adrad cored top mount I/cooler I built for a friend of mines Nissan Patrol diesel, the top stainless shroud allow a rubber mould to seal between the bonnet scoop and the I/cooler. I'm quite proud of how it turned out. Regards Andrew.

I work next door to a LPG fitter in Carrum Downs Melbourne and have seen 2 BA Falcons and one Territory running sequential gas vapour injection. The kits are being developed by Impco and Victorian Autogas and were in for some dyno work. All these LPG installs were normally aspirated but when I asked the guy if it could be used on a turbo he thought it shouldn't be a problem. The install uses its own LPG computer which is laptop programmable if necessary, has 2 small fuel filters on the gas lines so the injectors don't get clogged with a bad batch of gas. The engine starts on petrol and only changes to LPG when water temps reach 40 degrees C, it automatically switches to petrol if it senses the LPG pressure drop when the LPG tank gets empty. A very professional install except the Territory's tank hung down too low but this was the 1st Territory they had done. Claimed power was the same as petrol and economy upto 5% worse but usually less than that. Regards Andrew