T-Rex

Sold PPU

Price drop - $12500 firm

Located Canberra It’s time for me to move onto something else, I’ve put a massive 20,000ks on this in 6 years - car itself has 170,000. Has had almost a full respray a couple years ago (minus rear bumper,roof and side skirts) so paint is in great shape. Makes 399rwkw, the old clutch could only handle that when it got tuned with the new turbo but the GTX turbo usually goes between 4-450 on 98. Drivetrain 65,000k FG Turbo engine fitted approx 5,000km ago Billet oil pump gears Valve springs 4in turbo side intake GTX3582 with ported rear housing (5k km old) Front mount intercooler FG turbo intake manifold ID1000 injectors (5k km old) Street fighter in tank pump with larger swirl pot Engine oil cooler with mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate 4in Xforce dump into 3.5 single exhaust Extreme clutches dual plate clutch (5k km old) Mal wood billet CSC (5k km old) Mal wood short shifter BC racing coil overs (height and rebound adjustable) AP Racing 6 piston front (355mm I think) and 4 piston rear (330mm I think) with braided lines - these are very hard to find Vertini magic wheels 20x8.5 front (Nitto NT05) 20x10 rear (Nitto invo) Full river lightweight battery mounted in boot Only bad things are - Little oil leaks from rear main and turbo drain to sump No spare but has a leak repair gel/compressor kit Looking for $14500

Classic moment, 7 plugs that can connect to injectors but only 6 injectors and one that connects to the body? Got forscan out and what do you know, inj 1 short to earth so that moved to one, the plug on one went to two and the imposter on two that had clearly different colour wires went back to its hole under the manifold Idles a bit nicer, didn't both trying to drive/move it because if I have the injectors mixed up they'll work it out pretty quick for me

Goes in on monday, so we'll see what they say... Im certain I've got something mixed up though - the only thing I can liken it to is when a spark plug lead came loose on my VL many moons ago. It feels like its labouring when I move it, I had clutch issues for a while which I sorted so I didn't really get a chance to notice. I'll have a look on the weekend and try sort it out before it goes in - is there an easy way to check injectors ie while off cycle no 1 then no 2 etc with forscan? The coils and connectors can't be mixed up due to length so that really only leaves the injectors

PBR organic twin plate, that's all I have unfortunately as I only worked that out when I pulled the motor because it was already it the car when I bought it

Ahh gotcha, but surely it wouldn't cause the clutch to stop disengaging? Aren't the pressure plates 'supposed' to be self adjusting? Or is that just generic crap I read in my googling?

Witness marks in the interest of keeping balance or just for reassembly? I forgot because I didn't think that would apply hence not having much experience with clutches.... I'm going to have to pull it apart at a minimum I'm guessing?

You better believe I did! It's a twin plate as well, and now I think of it the centre plate may have been swapped around when I cleaned it but the clutch disks themselves are definitely right because I made sure of the stamping (flywheel side-transmission side)

Ba coils and throttle and an FG intake

In summary, everything should be as it was originally but won't disengage. The car lurches forward if started in gear with the clutch in. The CSC is the original again and the clutch went back together how it came apart, the only think I can think of is that maybe the pressure plate got damaged when I put my motor back in however I didn't check last night. I'm waiting on a snake camera so I can stick it in and watch while the pedal gets pushed but other wise I have no idea

Okay so I forgot to check here before I did it, had a great time changing my slave back over. I sat there with my mate going look at this there's like 1mm difference between them that must be it! So put it all back in and it's still not going into gear while running.... As far as I knew all that had to happen is the clutch bolted together and was straight down the center.... What have I missed? I put it back together how it came off the first motor but I must have done something wrong [emoji44]

Ahhhh so I subbed a mate in, bled in no time! [emoji1303] Final diagnosis..... The piston isn't disengaging the clutch... [emoji23]They were like for like so I can only assume it's dead on arrival or something of that sort. I'll be pulling the box tonight to put the old one back in, anyone have any helpful insight if It could be something else I've overlooked before I get under there??? Pedal feel is normal (now it's bled) but in gear starts with clutch in it tries to move ie on grab point

That's guys, the two man seemed like it was working but the missus was chucking frownys about having to help so I'll have to finish doing it with a mate I actually had the thread tape out and was about to try it but the fluid was going everywhere and if I resort to that I'll just let it drain out before doing it rather than battling with it!

Guys, Put in slave cylinder with the remote line - the absolute nightmare won't bleed properly. All I can make out is that the nipple is leaking through the thread and sucking air back that way as well. I started bleeding it old school and it seemed to be working however I've had enough of it for tonight and will try again tomorrow maybe. Does anyone know a way to stop the nipple doing that so I can use a one man bleeder? Is it a faulty nipple?

Yeah fair call, better not risk it

What's everyone's opinion on driving it a short distance? Either 5ks or 15ish

Nope, still using my BA injectors on a FG rail/intake with spacers

Sorry should have pointed out it was cold start. I let it run till warm and it seemed normal apart from the exhaust sounding a little lumpier, although I know they have different cams but I wouldn't expect that much difference hence why I was/am worried! The motor had been fitted to a BA previously so I'm not sure about the phasers to be honest It is the BA computer and was tuned (not for the motor I've put in) - going in for a retune ASAP but think I'll trailer it there instead of babying it.

Fellas, Just put an FG2 Turbo motor into a BA and fired it up and it's running what seems a bit rough Only started it and ran it for about 30 seconds before I had to go out, it sounds like it's got a lumpy cam and was idling at about 1100 opposed to the usual 1000 - things that I can think of at the moment are a bodgy vac line I had to do and sealed with gasket maker on the barb at the manifold (plastic fitting with the 8mm and 6mm barbs on one) or the injector plugs that had the permanent marker rub off a few. Any suggestions where else to look when I get back?

^^ That's what I was trying to work out, do you mean a whole engine loom? Or could I get away with changing the plug? Or not that simple?

How do you guys go about hooking up the throttle body? Do you rewire or use an adapter plate with the BA/F one?

As the funds edge close to what I'm expecting a rebuild to cost, what have people paid for a forged bottom end rebuild? No need to name shops or exact numbers to 3 decimal places just after a ballpark - how would you compare it to buying say an atomic streetorquer 550 short motor?

All this talk is making me want to get a fatter rod put in :/ It's the 6spd Man, that's why I'm getting the gears. They said they take the engine out to install the gears so maybe I'll suss out the price of some rods as well.

Fellas, there is a bit of info but feel it's easier if it's put into a straight question How many are running 400rwkw or so with stock internal BA/early BF motor? Looking at going gtx3582 on 98, I'll get pump gears but aren't really sure about the life expectancy of the engine. Seems there's a few getting around and I know that it's all in the tune. Who's running the gauntlet?