Lime Turbo

Hello People, So after a huge debate I'm getting a surge tank installed, Is it worth buying a pre-assembled Surge tank such as the process west or the plazmaman 1.7L tanks. Or install One myself using the parts I will show below: http://www.ebay.com....=item35bf1cb47e http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649 My question to all you smart people is the following: 1. Where do I install the surge tank, mounting issue? 2. What fittings, cables would I need 3. Is the 1.5L tank shown enough? 4. Anybody recommend a different fuel pump over the bosch 044 external 5. Anybody have a diagram for the installation of a surge tank on a xr6 turbo? I have searched over the net before I hounded everybody again on the forums, but I didn't get anywhere. So I'm left with the professionals haha. Any help at all appreciated, I just don't have a clue about surge tanks.

Yeh mate, bpt are still doing the tune. I asked simon at xft for a price, but it was too steep as mine has a sniper tune and he uses xcal. So it means re-flashing which is basically paying for your first tune and setup all over again, where as im already with bpt so its only gonna cost the hourly rate for a re-tune. Ill see how it goes, the guys at bpt are good guys, ill see what they can get out of it

Thanks Bionic Im onto it now. Ill be getting a surge tank installed when XFT finish building my ZF. Any recommendations? Has anybody done custom install on surge tanks instead of paying over $1000 for the pre build plazmaman/process west tank & pump combos?.... If you know what I mean haha.

Thanks for everybody's replies. So here is an up to date spec sheet of my car.....sort of haha. Could anybody give me an estimate of what kind of power I should/could be pulling once its all up and running again? ....And im going to ask another beginners question, if you were in my shoes......out of the very little cash I have left after the ZF transmission rebuild: would I be better to buy a surge tank to run with my walbro 300lt-ph intank, or a plazmaman Inlet Plenum.... I know people have already answered, but its an ongoing question and im getting 50/50 opinion's haha, im chasing 500rwhp, and I think im nearly there, I just need some advice, im going to do the valve springs later when I can afford them. Is the benefit over the surge tank worth it, over the inlet plenum? Engine & Transmission: - Nizpro 1000HP Intercooler - 3.5 Inch Alloy Cold Side Into Throttlebody - 2.5 Inch Alloy Hot side - Walbro 300lt-ph Intank Fuel Pump - MSCN Turbo Oil Feed Kit With Inline Filter - Turbosmart 12psi billet aluminium Internal Actuator (waiting for install) - Seimens Deka 80lb Injectors (waiting for install) - 4 Inch Plazmaman Intake & Airbox kit with K&N Filter - Battery Relocated to Rear/Boot - Built ZF 6 speed transmision by XFT with Nizpro Input shaft (waiting for install) Exhaust system: - 4 Inch Turbo dump pipe - 5 Inch Catalytic converter - 2.5 Inch Twin Cat Back to twin 2.5" muffler tips Thanks again people, this forum is pricesless.

Ok thanks for everyones comments. Im waiting for simon from xft to call me back with more info on the rebuild, so I will let you know. But from what I know that price was for me dropping the car there, him doing all the work, rebuild with clutch plates etc.... and the nizpro billet shaft. And me driving out So what ive got so far is drop the plenum: The one I was talking about was this one: https://www.plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=44&cate=65 Install my 80lb deka injectors and 12psi actuator from rapidsystems, buy a surge tank with bosch 044 pump, to run with my already installed walbro 300lt, buy valve springs, then get a re-tune with my already installed nizpro intercooler kit, 4" dump to 3" exhaust system, 4" K&N induction kit..... And im set for roughly 370kw? Thanks again peeps

Riptide: Thanks for that, I'll have to see what I can do Bigkeels: That price is from XFT, with clutch plates fully rebuilt and Nizpro input shaft. Standard stall I think, and I'll have to ask about the trans cooler coz from what I've been told I don't think it comes with one.......but he did say drive away so I should get more info from what I will be driving away with haha Paulie: Thanks again mate, I thought surge tank was a backup? As in when you were low on fuel you can't punch it too hard, which I don't on low fuel anyway. Is the Walbro 300 lt ph not enough? Also is it still nesersary to change the valve springs, I though BF MK2 had typhoon springs? BPT are doing the tune, should I get the 1.2K plenum upgrade? Will this help. Regards

Ok so if anybody is interested, a complete rebuild with hardened internals and Nizpro billet input shaft, drive away is $4250... not really that bad .......just didn't need it to happen right now haha Also I got told deka 80lb injectors and my 12psi actuator coming from rapid systems are s**t? what do you guys think? And from what I told you already what am I missing to hit the 370kw at the wheels mark? Thanks again

No worries, I'll give Simon a call ASAP and see what he can do and organize a tow haha Thanks allot

Thanks Paulie, So any recommendations on rebuild? Nizpro input shaft and 3000rpm high stall? Any places close to rockingham that does rebuild, Thoughts?

Just to clear a few things up, the engine is running perfectly, the prop shaft has no movemant what so ever, which makes me think it cant be anything to do with the diff. And the gearbox has no drive, or no knock....almost like theres no input to the gearbox and no output.......its just a piece of metal at the moment between the engine and the wheels haha.

The gearbox literally does nothing, might as well not be there haha. And the car rev's fine and idles fine, thanks for your input

Hello again people (sorry for the multiple question's, but my heads buzzing) So this time I have a grumble, I was driving to work yesterday in tip-tronic (for fun), I drove down the off-ramp onto the freeway in 3rd gear, as I shift to 4th it literally went bang (more like a huge clunk)......and I rolled to the emergency lane, and that's where it stayed. I'm not going to lie to you, I shifted from 3rd to 4th @ 100kmh....so nothing I haven't done before. So my question is this, does anybody know...or can give me any tips to narrow the problem down: I can get in the car as we speak, it turns on, idles correctly, turbo is fine, engine is fine, gauges and electronics.....everything is working, except the Speedo does not move (Obviously). When I put the transmission into park, reverse, drive, sports or tip-tronic.....it doesn't make a sound, it doesn't clunk.....it literally does nothing.....I can just move the gearstick around.... So what are my chances? Transmission critically dead..stripped spines, or something like oil pump? has anybody else had drama with a zf gearbox @130,000km? My Options: 1. Get it diagnosed first..,. 2. Buy a new transmission? Has anybody had any contact with "RVO Transmission" as they build a 400kw ZF 6 speed, with custom high stall converter for $3000 delivered to your door. Or a 800hp 4L60E's 6 speed manualized auto with custom high-stall for $5000 delivered? 3. Get a re-build, I live in Rockingham and to be honest I don't know where there is a good place to rebuild-ZF Gearboxes, and I would want it beefed up a bit to last. Here's what I've done to the car: Late 2006 BF MKII XR6 Turbo - NizPro 1000hp Intercooler (3 Inch offset cold side & 2.5" Hot side) - 4 inch dump pipe, to 3 inch into twin 2.5" tips exhaust system - Airbox & Intake Kit - K&N filter - 4inch inlet, 6inch body - Walbro 300lt-ph In-Tank Fuel Pump - Braided Turbo oil feed line with High flow inline filter - Drilled Injectors (Waiting on 80lb deka in the post) - Stock Actuator (Waiting on 12psi actuator in the post) Currently running @ 316kw Rear Wheel (424rwhp) (was running more but injectors & actuator at their limits) And lastly a question that I will probably get bashed for : After I fix the transmission I want to get at least 370kw with my setup, I can't understand why I cant pull these figures? Will a surge tank and a Plazmaman plenum chamber get me these results, along with the 840cc injectors and 12psi actuator that are coming? I'm running out of ideas ha-ha. Anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks allot for helping me out, if it wasn't for this forum id get no-where.

Hey people, As promised I would give you an update with my results; Check 1: I checked the battery, the battery was fine good news as it was expensive. SOLVED: For anybody that does not know, I installed my battery in the boot, I used a "0 gauge" for positive with a fuse in the middle incase it ever makes contact with the chassis. I also earthed the battery in the boot, with thinner cable..... this was already recognized as poor earthing and was a struggle to start the car. I went to jay car and bought "0 Guage" earthing cable, I also bought a sealed weather proof box for the positive "0 guage" Junction box.... as I noticed it was sitting in a puddle of water where the original battery in the front used to be....and corroding (build up of crap). I kept the old earth connected, ran the new earth to a bolt on the engine, and again connected it up to the battery in the boot, clean up all the positive cables and sealed them in a weather proof box with mastik....... to my surprise everything is working fine speedo is working correctly. The only thing I noticed is when I turn my H.I.D headlights on, the radio quickly cuts out for a millisecond as the headlights turn on...... but literally you cannot notice unless you stare and listen hard haha. Thanks everybody for your help, Im just glad its resolved...... Ive learnt that earthing is everything

Tab: chizz for the tip, im gonna get the battery checked anyway, that would be very frustrating though seen as I bought the battery 6 months ago for $350, its a performace battery for my speaker system, but its putting out 1050 cranking amp when it was tested in my car. So im pretty sure its gonna be earthing or something more serious :/

Barnesy: thanks mate, ive just bought one, paid a little more and got one from australia instead of hong kong, because im impatient What program do you recommend? Theres soo many, im using an ipad and connecting through bluetooth as suggested? All of you people have been a great help thanks allot

Thanks allot guys, over the weekend I will do as much as possible to see if I can fix the problem, I think ill check a few of the things mentioned before buying any new parts. its still going to be hard to know if its fixed or not straight away, seen as it only does it randomly. But ill let you know the outcome when I know its fixed. My plan if anybody is interested haha; 1. Fix up earthing 2. Check battery & cabling (as its installed in the boot) DIY 3. Clean ABS Sensors After that if theres still no joy; 1. Check/replace Throttle position sensor 2. Check/ replace coils 3. Check icc unit cables 4. If all else fails get ford/fraud to check for problems, and error codes as I have no idea how to do that. Thanks for all your help

Bellato: Ive had the ICC out (not disconnected though) to install amp and twin subs, twin usb ports and a new head unit, the only thing I can say about that is, it was done about a year ago, and the problems has just started now..... still could be a possibility though. How would I know that the TPS has failed? I dont want to be replacing the tps sensor, coils, & installing earths haha. But I guess more possibilities is better than none, thanks for your help

ok thanks, ill still get my earths fixed up, I think it will help in general. And ill make sure I get genuine coils haha, and ill clean the abs sensor..... is there a picture of this anywhere? Or a tutorial as ill be honest I have no idea where/how and what that is (except from it being near one of the rear wheels haha) and what can I clean it with, will maf sensor cleaner work?

So what I gathered so far is it could actually be my coils, it would make sense as I was saying before, I started the car the other day and it was miss-firing for no reason.... When I turned the car off and back on again it was fine. And I will buy some more cable over the weekend and install more earths, as the car only has one going from the battery in the boot, earthed to the inside of the boot. When I installed the lights I didt touch anything, all I did was replace the front headlights, and wire up the HID's using the existing wiring. Thanks for your help, ill take any more tips if you have them. Also if I was to upgrade my coils after fixing my earthing, what do you guys think of weapon X ignition coils?? Yes or no?

Thanks allot mate, would earthing be any part of this? As ive been told I need more earthing on my car, the battery is in the boot, my volt guage reads 14V constantly though? Also my speedo only started doing this since the HID and headlights were installed? Any thoughts?

Hello people Im just wondering if anybody has had any experience with speedo problems? Ill explain a bit more, my speedo sometimes doesnt work at all when I drive off, so I pull over and turn the car off and on again and it works, the car is shifting gears fine, although when I started it the other day it sounded like it was missfiring.... until I turned it off and started it again, and it was fine after that? Ive already pit new spark plugs in not long ago, and there high quality ones I imported from america, no problems before. The only thing I have modified on the car recently was replacing the headlights, and installing both low beam and high beam with HID kits. I have checked the forum for this topic, but there doesnt seem to be anything covering my actual problem. Any help from anybody will be greatly appreciated Thanks people

UPDATE: FINALLY!! Hopefully there is some useful information here, and I dont sound like an idiot haha So I took the car to a battery and electrical shop, the guy tested my battery, and found it had 450 cranking amps (when it stated 600, "super charge" brand).....should have know! He then tested my alternator and everything is fine in this area, was charging the battery fine and maintained when accelerating....if that makes sense. The guy then checked my two earthing cables which were installed in my boot, he said they were way to thin (wrong guage), he he cut me some new higher rated cable, crimped it and put a better, thicker, bolt through it (I now only have one earth cable) - apparently the bolts and washers I used for the earth were s**t as well lol.......funny coz I checked with a guy in jay-car before I bought anything, wanted to do it right the first time. I then bought an equivelent battery to an optima (same battery structure, but had a higher higher CCA), replaced the old battery and he then tested the car again with the new battery. This battery was putting out 1050 Cranking Amps.....no Bulls**t! and the new earth helped as the car now starts on the dot. every time. The battery cost me $320 bucks, he done the rest for free. and it solved the problem......finally Thanks for all your help

@ Bionicxr6t05 - Do you think buying a bigger battery (Higher Crank Amps) & a capcitor will help, im running a digital sony amplifer with twin Alpine Type S 12" Subs & a Pioneer Deck, The amp pumps out 250RMS to EACH Sub? @ Gasman - Thanks for the tip, ill deffo get that checked. Do you have any idea how expensive a new alternator is.....incase they give me the bad news :/ And probably a stupid question but is there any alternators that are better than the stock one?

Yeah thanks guys, Ill go get my new battery tested, and might get my alternator checked while im at it. If its the battery not having enough oomph, then that's an easy fix.... just means I bought a battery for nothing haha.... I should have asked here first Thanks for your help, ill keep you informed even if it takes a while to figure out So next question is, where do u recommend buying a perfomance/high crank battery from? Im in Perth?

Hello everybody, sorry this is so long! So I havnt had my xr6 turbo for long now, so I thought it would be a good idea to finish my ride. I know already that my 06 BF MKII XR6 turbo had a nizpro intercooler kit installed, along with a 4" downpipe, and twin 2.5" hotdog exhaust system, and bigger injectors, and a bullet (sniper) tune by BPT performance. that's great, but I wanted more, so ive then installed a walbro 300 lt ph (800hp rated) & fuel filter, as well as 3" cold side, and 2.5" hot side piping for the nizpro intercooler. (This together removed the cross-over), and fitted a 4" induction kit and air box (plazmaman) which goes in place of the original battery. (still waiting for second tune) Now I gave you all that detail for a reason, the problem is starting the car, dont get me wrong it starts everytime..... but at a cost. I have to wait for the fuel pump to stop whining & make sure my stereo Amplifier isnt on at the same time (running twin subs)..... otherwise nothing!! I personally installed the battery in the boot with 0 guage cable, and a 250 Amp fuse inbetween to protect myself. I also earthed the battery at two different places in the boot (its properly installed, even with gold plated contacts) I should also note that I bought a new (sealed) battery at this time as the other battery had dead cells (shat itself), I drove the car home without the battery functioning that time, so the alternator must be working fine, correct? ....... I was stuck I had to do it! I am completely lost what the problem is, I should be able to just get in my car and start it, but I have to leave the ignition on for a few seconds before turning it over. I know it isnt the startor motor because I have just replaced it (same size as original battery) !! Should I buy a second battery and have two, one for the engine and the other for audio? Will this fix the problem? You should also know that if I do turn the key without waiting, all I hear is a clicking noise? This has only happend since ive had the fuel pump and amplifier installed, and the battery moved (all installed personally). If anybody has any idea at all, any pointers or facts that could help, PLEASE let me know I will greatly appreciate it, Luke