Force88

hey guys ive been crawling through past threads and rang ford themselves but I still cant find an answer so if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. one of the bolts on my turbo has fallen out and the car sounds like a tractor. what size bolt am I after? one thread suggested it was an m8 size bolt but an old m8 1.25 I had laying around was too big. cheers

rightio boys im at the end of my tether here. gave up on this for a few months but driving to cairns and back and listening to the constant whine for 8 hours pushed me over the edge. ive replaced the battery earth and the engine strap earth and cleaned sanded the alternator earth. ive moved to a new spot and replaced both amp earth cables and bought a new amp for my speakers(old one died anyway) tried an alternator suppressor, routed the RCA cables down the left side of the car and the amp power and remote cable down the right side of the car, and made the headunit power and earth go directly to the battery instead of tapping into the icc wiring loom. yet the noise persists. right now the car is just about ripped apart, all I have plugged into the stereo is the remote wire, power and earth. the stereo can be powered on and theres no whine but as soon as you select a source the whine starts. the only thing I havent replaced is the alternator power cable because I cant find one anywhere to buy. my speaker cables are tapped in via the kickpanels and the speaker wires run along with the RCA cables down the left side. if I take the alternator cable out of the fuse box and start the car the noise is completely gone. just about ready to pour petrol over the car and call it a day, so if anyone has any other solutions for how to fix this id love to hear one

I know there have been a hundred threads over the years but I cant seem to find a concrete answer for my question and a lot of the images people posted dont work anymore. I have a lot of oil inside the front of my turbo and I would like to stop as much of that as I can. I only have 1 catch can and from what ive read, putting it on the pcv hose seems to be better than the rocker breather. can I connect my vented can to the pcv and leave the rocker breather hose connected to my turbo intake? or should I put a breather on the front vent to stop any oil from getting to the intake. the can wont be returning to the manifold just vented. and do I need to block the hole on the manifold once I disconnect its hose and connect it to the can?

ok bought some earth leads and one of those noise suppressors you fit to to the back of the alternator finally gonna have a crack at this today. before I put it on just wanna make sure that this is how the suppressor is supposed to be fitted?

replaced the rear speakers this arvo and still have the whining noise basically only coming from the back, really loud with the rear window demister on. strange how the whine basically only comes from the rear speakers. next step might be to rewire the rear speakers and keep them away from the demister power... failing that ill give the main earths a replacing but since the noise is only really coming from the back and I barely heard it all the days I had the rear speakers disconnected I dunno if that's gonna be the fix im after.

had a bit of a mess around just before and realised that most of the whine noise is coming from the rear speakers. bloke I bought the car off must have only upgraded the fronts and tweeters but left the rears the standard cardboard sh*tters. when I pull their wires out of the amp the whine sound is just about completely gone. I can hear a tiny bit of whine but not deafening like it was. do standard speakers not like being amped?

I did split apart the speaker wires and the RCA cables, but the car seems to have power running down both sides so theres no way of getting everything away from eachother without ripping the entire insides out. car already had an aftermarket amp in it, I ran RCA from HU to the amp and then the amp runs the speaker cables back through the car.

I know theres a hundred topics on this but they all seem to be about using the standard ford ICC and aux. I thought that was my problem too so I spent the whole weekend installing a new headunit. started the car up and the whine noise is still as crazy as it was before. seems to get worse with lights/aircon on and really loud when the rear window demister on. some days its not that audible but other days I pull the car over and rip the control wire out of the amps because its that bad. because the noise stayed exactly the same after the head unit change, what else could I look at doing to stop the noise?

ok cheers for that, will have to find somewhere close that can do one for me. it recently got tuned and had its valve springs replaced so im not sure if it was checked after the work was done but the tuner never mentioned anything about a possible vacuum leak.

haven't had any vacuum testing done, I assumed it could only be the pedal causing the error. what I mean is pulling this part out and replacing it. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/152219269196?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT this is the thing that the error code is referring to isnt it?

ive got the p2138 code coming up on my xcal3 and the engine light for a few years now and thought id get around to fixing it before it just goes full limp mode on me. ive had the TPS replaced previously for a ridiculous $800 and the code still showed so my last guess is that the pedal box needs replacing. I can see that some people on here have replaced them and its quite a tricky job but the place that said they could do it for me said they would charge $900 :S so hopefully I can pick up a cheap one off ebay or a wreckers and give it a go myself. what exactly needs to be removed to get this thing out?

haha yeah no drama I didn't take offense to it I thought the same thing when I saw what the final readout was. most people do seem to make more kw with the same or less boost and even less mods so I dunno what the deal is. there aren't any racetracks around here so 305 is good enough

yeah im happy with it, it held 16psi dead flat so at least the motor is still in good shape even after running 19psi for so long. at least I know the bottom end is safer too. guys at TMS did say that their dyno does read lower than others around town.

after a few years of neglect finally took my car in to get fixed and tuned. snapped a diff bolt over a year ago and gave up with the car as the numerous other problems with it gave me the sh*ts. but I got over that and saved up enough to give it another shot and im glad I did. the IMS diff kit that I got installed has made the car so much better to drive, no clunks anywhere :D while tuning the car the valve springs started to float so I opted to have the atomic springs put in. I bought the car from someone off these forums back in 2010 who said that he had put nizpro valve springs in it so I thought it was weird that they were floating, but upon removal mechanic said they were stock ford springs so who knows :S the guy I bought it from also had a dyno sheet saying the car had pulled 390rwkw and that was with a stock crossover,airbox, hot side pipe, BOV (and apparently springs). my car sure was one magical BA back in its hayday. so anyway after pulling all that old sh*t off and replacing with better stuff I managed to pull 305.3rwkw @ 16psi. the car drives better now than it ever has. mod list as follows: siemens 60lb deka injectors 14lb actuator plazmaman 4inch race airbox with pod battery relocated under front bar plazmaman stage 3 IC with hot and cold side piping GFB respons BOV plumbed back walbro in tank pump (not sure which) earls turbo oil line filter atomic valve springs 4 inch dump pipe 5 inch 100cel cat 3.5inch exhaust IMS diff kit mal wood option 3+ clutch cheers goes to the guys at TMS in townsville they did an awesome job fitting the diff and tuning the car. now to fix the rooted starter motor and the deafening alternator whine I have coming through my speakers

is that with the IMS kit? mine sounded like that before the diff bolt snapped

well im not really any closer to figuring out whether I should go stock or superpro haha. I guess ill go with the superpro since IMS recommend buying them along with their diff kit anyway.

apart from the extra cost over the OEM bushes, are there any downsides to using the superpro bushes instead?

this could be it? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-BF-FG-MK2-FALCON-REAR-DIFF-SUSPENSION-SIDE-MOUNT-BUSH-NON-FPV-HP-/291005284516?hash=item43c14440a4:g:FDwAAOxyzi9SgDOw

any chance you'd know the part number of the stock ford bush?

it seems superpro discontinued the bush IMS sell, part #SPF3148AK and replaced it with #SPF3148PK. are there any differences?

hey all, about to pull the trigger on the IMS diff kit and am a bit confused as to whether I should also order the extra front diff mount bushes? did anyone else buy this extra who fit this diff kit? the car had a bit of work done at pedders a few years ago replacing all sorts of bushes in the rear end so not sure if this bush also got changed. cheers

cheers fellas ill give it a go tomorrow arv and see if it fires up or goes up in smoke !

the diff let go on me about 18 months ago so I parked the car up and haven't used it since. im looking at getting the car back on the road finally and want to know if there is anything I should do to the car before starting since it hasnt gone for 18 months. when the car was parked up there was barely any fuel left in the tank so hopefully it doesn't need draining and I can chuck some fresh stuff in. should I dump the engine oil and put some new stuff in before starting it? is there anything else should I be worried about?

yeah sorry slotted, not vented. DBA 2107S looks like it might be the go and just regular bendix gct

god damn, and all this time I thought I had decent front brakes... thanks for the reply. I guess ill have to find the part numbers to suit these calipers.... are vented rotors worth looking into for these? or just solids with bendix general ct pads