Jez89

Cheers guys ill get it checked out and let you know how I go.

Hi all, It has been happenning for a while now but it has really started to piss me off. I have a BA typhoon with 90000kms. It has been modified and has been running fine for a good year or so, but has started to develop a few electrical glitches... There are a few different issues and I am unsure if they are all related so I thought I'd list them down and see if any of you guys could help out. It should also be noted that I have only just recently installed a new battery and brand new coils. Battery light flickers under load. As soon as boost comes on the battery light will intermittently flicker. There has been the occasional time it will stay on hard for about 30 seconds and then turn off. It also seems like the traction control is trying to come on under load at this point too, even with it off. At first I thought it might have been the clutch starting to slip but you can definately hear that distinct traction control noise. It doesn't do the traction control thing all the time. It will also sometimes loose revs and occasionally stall at idle. I'm pretty sure this happens 90% of the time in the wet. I have had times when it has been wet and I go to start the car and it will start, and as soon as it gets up to its idle revs, will drop back down and stall straight away. Rarely has this happened when the weather has been dry. I have plugged my flash box in and looked for fault codes right after it has stalled but have never found any fault codes. If anybody has any ideas please fire away! Cheers, Jez.

Old thread I know but were there any results here???

Hey guys cheers for the replies. Kartman I understand there can be big differences in dynos which is why I ran it on another dyno and got about the same. As a bit of a reference, before I did all of my mods I did the injectors and put in a generic tune with the x3. I ran it up on a local dyno to check the tune was ok and it was running about 270 - 280rwkw (about 15 PSI). I then did the rest and got it custom tuned at HPF for 315 rwkw. My thoughts were it was low so I got it checked on the same local dyno and got about 312rwkw @17PSI. So according to the local dyno I gained about 35rwkw by doing full exhaust, cooler, fuel pump etc and then getting it custom tuned. I know there are other factors like the temperature could have been lower when I first ran it on the dyno after doing the injectors but I still would have expected more power for less boost after the custom tune and extra mods. Spool I have heard the rear muffler on the xforce can be restrictive it would be interesting to swap it and check it but I wouldnt think it would be that restrictive. The tips do look small I might measure them myself! I suppose the best thing would be to have a run in another car with similar mods to compare how it feels or give it a run down the strip. Dont really know anyone else around my area with similar setup and we dont have a drag strip. Cant see myself being down in melbourne for a few months due to work.

Very nice . What sort of intake do you have? Have you relocated the battery or is it an under battery setup? Either way was there much to do and did you install it yourself?

Cheers for the feedback guys. I have run it on another dyno not long after HPF just to compare because I thought it was low and got about the same rwkw. I'm not chasing a number or anything I just want to make sure I'm getting the power I should be safely. I also ran it on another dyno just to check AFR's and boost because the only graph I got off HPF was the one I posted.... not sure why some things have to be so f-ing hard sometimes... . Anyway I will be definately going to Pitlane as it sounds like everyone that goes there comes out pretty happy and actually knows what their car is doing. It's just a pain in the ass because I live in Albury which is far away from pitlane and a proper drag strip. Hopefully in the next month or 2 I might get them to have a look at it.

Unsure if the cat is 100 or 200 cpi. If I had a 200 would it make much of a differece going to a 100? Also, the HDI kit comes with replacement cold side piping between the cooler and crossover. Car has had a fairly easy life with only 80,000 kays, 75000 of them being stock and the car was well looked after and never punished. I think I'll eventually relocate the battery and airbox to reduce piping length and probably upgrade cooler... I originaly had stuff all plans for this car but one thing leads to another and it's hard to stop!

Hi guys, Have been meaning to put this thread up for a while now. I have a BA F6 which I have done some work on and got tuned at HPF for 315rwkw @ 17PSI. I was sort of hoping for a bit more considering the mods / boost level (compared to other people I have spoken to). The car does feel alot quicker and I really enjoy the added power. I'm just not sure if it could be better and was hoping maybe you lot could post a few ideas etc. Mods include; -Xforce stainless 3.5in exhaust with 4in dump. -Siemens 60lb deka injectors. -Walbro in tank pump. -Crow race valve springs. -HDI GT2 intercooler (keeps standard crossover). -Turbo ported with larger flapper. -12 PSI actuator. -Mal Wood opt 3+ clutch. My thinking is if I choose to mod further would be to add a better cooler and piping kit (get rid of crossover etc) and maybe add a surge tank with extra fuel pump for safety. I'd then go to Pitlane for retune. Any feedback is good! Cheers, Jez.

Hey mate. I recently put this exact clutch in my BA F6. Managed to do it in my mates shed on jack stands and it was fairly straightforward. All you need is an assortment of sockets, extension bars (few bolts on bellhousing and gearbox a bit hard to get to), spanners and something to lower the gearbox out on. We used a section of a shopping trolley with a jack at the front and back. Just need to get torque specs right on clutch when doing it up and line the clutch plate up properly. A mate turned me up a dummy shaft which worked a treat. Heres a link to mine - Good luck!

With MiKa here, have been to HPF but will be going to Pitlane next time. Wish I went there to begin with!

Yeah the opt3+ has organic facings. Sorry Henz no videos of burnouts, my mate who had the camera failed hard.

Haha yeah changed I clutch in the same shed in amongst all the burnouts. If anything I think this clutch feels lighter and more friendly than the standard AP clutch. Also the AP clutch had a real high take up point whereas the 3+ starts to bite just after you start releasing it. I am really impressed with the feel of it, great everyday clutch. It's hard (for me) to explain the crush depth but its just a measurement you have to get right before you put the gearbox back in. You need to measure the distance from the block face that your flywheel bolts onto, to the fingers on the pressure plate that the slave cylinder pushes against. Then, with the bellhousing on the transmission and a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing, you need to measure down to the face of the slave. You then take this measurement away from your first measurement, and for this clutch it needs to be between 14 and 17mm.

Hi guys, Just thought I'd do a write up for a clutch change up I just finished. I have a BA F6 typhoon which comes standard with the AP racing twin plate clutch and T56. The car had done about 75000kms with 315rwkw for about 5000kms. One afternoon last month we decided to have a burnout competition in a friends shed which ended up destroying my clutch (fukd it good and proper, I will load photos when I figure out how to do it). Anyway after doing some looking around (mainly on here) I decided to get a Mal Wood option 3+. I live in Albury NSW so it was too far to bring it to Mal Wood and after ringing a few clutch places around town I felt I should do the swap myself. Here's a bit of a write up on how it went. The swap over was done in a mates shed with the car up on jack stands. I found the whole job to be fairly straightforward and would happily do it again. I started by removing the driveshaft and a section of the exhaust that would have impeded on the gearbox coming out. I then drained the gearbox and clutch fluid to avoid any mess. We didn’t have a transmission jack but instead used 2 trolley jacks which supported a section of a Dan Murphy's shopping trolley we found in the alley next to the house that worked a treat. With the trolley base under the transmission and the jacks located at the front and rear of the box, we could undo the gearbox from the bell housing and remove the bolts from the rear cross member. We had also removed the gear stick and any electrical plugs from the transmission at this stage. Removing the box was a slow process of slightly dropping the box and pulling it back away from the clutch but it wasn't too bad. We used 3 people for this- one on each jack and me manoeuvring the box. With the box out you can now easily remove the bell housing and then the clutch. Putting everything together again wasn't too bad. With the instructions provided by Mal it was fairly easy to put back together. I wish I had have followed them a little better the first time and measured the crush depth properly so I didn’t have to pull the box out again and adjust it, but oh well we were good at it by then and it only added a few hours to the job. It turns out I didn’t torque up the pressure plate enough (needs to be 35lb/ft on opt3+) which resulted in the crush depth sitting outside the 14 - 17mm it needed to be. Was on the phone to the guys at Mal Wood who helped me out a lot here. Once I set it up properly the measurement I got was 15.5mm. After this we put everything back together and away she went. Clutch feel is great and the car is driving awesome. Will run it in for a little while before giving it too much stick. Feel free to add any feedback / questions and I will try and put some photos up over the coming days. Also I would just like to thank the guys at Mal Wood for their help it made the job a whole lot easier and would recommend them to anybody. Great people to deal with. Cheers. Jezza.

Look up the thread 'turbo removal in preparation of wastegate mod' I think its called. I found it helpfull when I did mine, it isn't toooooo bad a job.

How bad has it been rubbing? Does it feel rough? If it has gouged bits off you'll want a new compressor housing which you could probably score off the forum as alot of people upgrade this. I'd pull the whole turbo off and remove both housings (so it looks like the above pic) and have a proper look at them so you know what you need. Cartridge part number in 706451 and can be bought off ebay (US) for $800 new.

I doubt the shaft would be bent. Sounds like the bearings are on the way out. Either way, if the cartridge hasn't stuffed your housings you should be able to get away with just replacing the cartrige. Probably a better and cheaper option than a whole second hand unit or rebuilding your current one.

If its the rotating assembly your after the garrett part number is 706451-5005. Recently got one from america for $800.

Yeah it was pretty easy I did it in the shed at home with basic hand tools and was the first time I pulled one apart. AS Spoolxr6 said just mark it all first or take a photo of it for when you put the new cartridge in. Good luck with it!

I found the replacement cartrige on ebay. The replacement part number (cartridge only) is a 706451-5005. Check this link.. The turbo is classed as a GT3540 or GT3582R it just depends what size / style housing setup you have on it but im not entirely sure on this so best if someone else explains.

I have just been through this too. I ended up getting a brand new core from US for $855 delivered. My housings were untouched though. I also bought the EARLS filter kit which I will hopefully have fitted tonight. I'm not too sure about the frequency of changing the in line filter but I wouldnt think it would need to be replaced every oil change.

Just thought I'd update where I was up to. As I said earlier the best quote I could get anywhere around Australia was around the $1200 mark for a new cartridge. After looking on E-bay I found one in the US for $800. I bought it and it cost $855 delivered to my door (took about 2 weeks). I was a bit worried about buying off ebay but this was all good. Genuine Garrett cartridge part number 706451-5005 and is identical to my old cartridge. I got it yesterday and have fitted my housings to it and all looks fine. I will have the car all back together and running this week and will post up when im finished to let people know how it went. The cartridge can be seen on the following link; Garrett Cartridge 706451-5005 Cheers for the replies. Jez.

Hi Dave, Sounds like your turbo has done the same as mine has done recently. I have completely removed the turbo (easy enough to do in your driveway with minimal tools) and while it wasn't touching the housings I could hear and feel that the bearings were not right. I removed the front and rear housings off the core and found that they had not been touched at all. This being the case I have decided to buy a whole new core and to bolt my existing housings to it. I am yet to buy one due to christmas taking all my money but have been quoted $1200inc GST and postage for a brand new Garrett core. I have also bought a replacement oil feed line with in line filter (EARLS one from Ebay) and will fit it when I put the new turbo back on to help prevent any future issues and would suggest you do the same. This gets rid of the factory screen that can become blocked. Anyway hope this helps and good luck. Jez.

Pulled the turbo off and both housings look fine. I was unable to make the fins touch the housing at all by moving the shaft with my hands. There is a bit of forward / back movement which doesnt seem or sound right. When I stand the turbo on its end and spin it it sounds fine. When its laying on its side and I spin it it makes the ginding noises. I'll send it off early next week to get a new core fitted. I'll also be fitting one of those EARLS oil feed lines with a filter and getting rid of the factory screen.

Hey guys, Been a bit busy/slack getting the turbo off. Only had a crack at it last night. Just gotta disconnect bottom oil line and one bolt off the turbo and I'l have it off tonight. I'l check it out and post up tomorrow what I find. I'm probably going to end up getting a brand new core. Been priced $1300 to send it away, get a brand new garrett core fitted to my housing (hopefully my housing is fine) with a warranty. Does this sound right?

As far as I know the screen is still in there. When the turbo was off about 3 weeks ago I was told the turbo was getting oil fine. I'll find out when I pull it off (hopefully this sun). Do you think it is worth removing? I service every 7.5k. Spoolxr6 can you PM me your number so I can ring you about your turbo? Cheers.