vrrm

Interesting the blokes I talked to at the workshop were very clear that it wasn't a mechanical hydraulic issue, the software reflash was all they did. Someone else might have greater knowledge that can inform us on this. Rob

Thanks. 40 years ago I used to drive a truck without power steering and that was a handful, but I've never encountered steering as hard as the G6ET without the power on. I took the car to the local FPV workshop this arvo and they dumped the software and reflashed it. Fixed the problem, but while the car is back to normal the solution doesn't compute for me. I'm not aware that the power steering pump is progressive & don't see the relationship between software and what I thought was a purely mechanical / hydraulic process. Gives me concern for future like problems at unexpected times. Any thoughts? Rob

Apologies if this is in the wrong thread. My 09 G6ET developed a steering problem over the weekend. After coming to a stop, particularly if have to hold foot on the brake in drive, as in waiting for the lights, the steering wheel becomes near to impossible to turn. When I put the thing in neutral and rev the engine, it loosens up and one can turn. The problem has been developing over 24 hours and is progressively getting worse. I'd be grateful for any tips on what might be causing it? Thanks in advance Rob

Thanks John, I'm not much of a camera person but will take a pic and post, though the car looks exactly like the G6ET of g6et06's in the recent images gallery on the home page, same colour & wheels, about the same height. I haven't had pedders coiled height adjusters fitted, I have pedders sports springs with Koni's all round, car has been lowered by approx 25mm, lol, just low enough to scrape every public carpark kerb & divider. Andrew I haven't done anything about tyres yet, I reckon another 3 - 5 k in the rears and I'll need a new set. Thanks for the info about your, what did you pay for the Pirelli nero's? Regards Rob

Further update: In addition to installing a set of Koni's (thanks Brett) and lopping a bit off the suspension stops, I asked Ben and Reade at Pedders South Melbourne to replace the rear diff bush with a much stiffer, but vibration free perforated urethane one (Pedders part # EP1175). Ford told me the bushes in my car were fine and that a urethane bush would transmit a lot of vibration into the car, it doesn't. You wouldn't know it was the same car. The rear had a tendency to break traction too unpredictably, worse when it did break the rear would crack right or left, the only way to deal with it was back off. Now the backend is under control, I can feel progressive grip and when it does break I can mostly drive out of it. More importantly when the wheels spin up in a straight line the car sits square over them, rather than the rear snake out towards a parked car or some such. The konis are a great addition and have reduced axle tramp, but I reckon the stiffer rear diff bush has taken the monster out of the car and created stability that lets the rest of the suspension get power to the ground. Skid pan session Saturday week, then a track day. Rob

time for an update, particularly for the many guys who have given me great advice on developing the car. Thanks, I haven't taken everyone's specific advice, but I couldn't have progressed this far without your help. After changing springs (Pedders sport) and adding Whiteline sway bars, I found the car handled much better, turns in well. The installation of an LSD improved traction, however, I am getting some axle tramp and the car felt squishy and indecisive (incl in Performance mode). Early this week the exhaust system and air filter were replaced (Herrod plus K&L). New injectors and a PCW flash and tune, 15psi boost. Now 284rwkw and 766Nm. The tune has toned up gearbox response (in both drive and Performance mode). Fabulous to drive, took it out on some very wet back roads last night, is great, especially on dirt (which surprised me, but then I always have enjoyed thrashing on dirt roads). The car now has great feel, there is a slight vibration coming through the body (felt via the wheel) from the exhaust, so I can now both hear and feel what the engine is doing. There is a slight drone at highway cruising speed. Is covered by the sound system when on, but is sufficient to annoy old ears at other times so I will likely do something about damping sound coming up through the boot in time. I organised the mods through the local FPV workshop. I only plan to keep this car for around 12 months and I figure if I can show buyers that as much of the work as possible was done through a Ford dealer that it will have more cred in some people's eyes and I'll not lose as much dough, lol. Yes I have paid more than if the work was done independently, but I'm happy. I am still concerned about axle tramp and suspension hitting the stops when accelerating on rough surfaces, will shorten stops and put in a set of koni's in the next week or so. The guys at Pedders South Melb (top blokes by the way) also suggest changing the rear dif bush to a urethane insert. I had expressed concern about the diff bushes to the FPV guys, hoping to get them to replace all the bushes under warranty with the new stiffer ones Ford is fitting now, but they could find nothing wrong with them. Bugger. I am unsure whether replacing one diff bush with a urethane insert is going to put under stress on the other two bushes, but I reckon I'll find out. The last few month developing the car have been great fun, now just need to tie down the rear axle a bit and do a few track days. Rob

See Caulfield Service Centre, Ford and FPV Service, Ford and FPV Repairs - New Oak Ford - Oakleigh, Melbourne. The dude behind the reception desk is Wayne, but the young fella in the workshop Adrian (XR6T driver) is the guy you want to talk to from a hands on perspective. The warranty won't cover any external parts fitted that bust, and in theory not any other part they cause to break, but I'm told Ford are reasonable in this context.

Yeh I did put up that info as a thread and it disappeared, thought I was having a senior moment, so I posted it again here. Like you I had just got a quote re inserts from Pedders when I founf the above out. What tyres did you fit? I have also discovered that NewOarkFord (Oakleigh Victoria) whose specialist FPV workshop I was in are only too happy to mod my car for me, and will use other specialist outside shops to do it where they need to do that. And that making changes within that framework goes a long way to protecting the car's warranty. They are going to do some work for me - returning 300-330rwkw in about a week - exhaust, airfilter, tune (SCT flash), injectors. No doubt independent tuners and more techically minded owners would prefer not to take this course, but being an old guy I feel much happier being able to stay within the confines of the manufacturer and the general span of the warranty while further developing the car. Rob

I was at a dedicated FPV service centre yesterday discussing diff bushes and 'clunks' 'bangs' in the backend under power. Apparently Ford has developed a new stiffer diff bush, which is already being fitted on the production line. Not yet available via spare parts yet, I'm told a couple of weeks, when available I'll try getting all 3 diff bushes on my car replaced under warranty.

I was down at the local Ford dealers FPV workshop this morning and learnt that the company has recently released new stiffer diff bushes for turbos. Apparently the new bushes are already being put in production cars, but they are not yet available via spare parts, should only be a week or two. So if your car is still under warranty and you have 'clunks' or 'bangs' in the backend (as I do) I suggest you go lobby for replacements. My car is lowered, has stronger springs and after market sway bars, but the guys at the FPV workshop still say that there should be no problem warranty wise.

I've never had a diff clunk, a distinct 'bang' somewhere back there when I flatten it was tuned out during a dealer service, but now that I've stiffened up the rear suspension I notice it's back, not sure what it is. My guess is rubber bushes allowing too much movement. Rob

I think you've done very well on price. Bought my May 09 build car with 13,000km on clock for $46k (tax paid). An extra $2K for a few km's on a demonstrator is a great outcome. And the drive down from Briso is an excellent way to get into the vehicle. Congratulations! Regards Rob

Bit depressed this morning. Went to local tyre guy to enquire after Eagle F1 Asymmetric tyres and was told the Dunlop Sports Maxx tyres already fitted to the car are the better tyre. Any comments? Regards Rob

Update. Have now had a few weeks in the car to consider how it behaves, trying to get some idea where to start. JohnnyG very kindly outlined what he had done in some detail which gave me some confidence. Thanks mate. My first impression was that the backend was lighting up way too easily. I might be an old fella, but when I get the walking frame stowed nice & carefully in the boot I do like to enjoy what the car has to offer. And it was giving up too much squishy nonsense in the back end. First move was to do something to improve mechanical grip. Got Pedders to fit a set of sports springs (part numbers 2633 and 2994), lowered the car by 25mm and stiffened it up no end. Didn't fancy the uber low show style look of King Springs fitted cars as I'll no doubt want to tow the electric wheelchair when I get one of those, plus I don't want to have to watch every curb in the carpark. The thing turns in a lot better and traction off the mark is better. The ride is stiffer, but not harsh (is harder in the back seat), but the feel I get about what is happening with / under the wheels is now really good (bugger all feel through the steering wheel these days). Cost about $600. Then I bought a set of Whiteline adjustable sway bars (part numbers BFF54Z, BFR42Z). These have cut out a lot of the body roll (I've got them set pretty hard), again improves turn in and reduces unweighted wheels while cornering, hence even better traction. Cost around $900 fitted. I like the combination of springs and bars. They works well together without being excessive. At this point I was beginning to feel comfortable with the handling and becoming more familiar with the car. Then yesterday I paid a visit to Jack McManus Differentials in Moorabbin to have an LSD fitted. I've written in more detail about this in another thread, but in short this is not your usual workshop. These guys are old school diff specialists who know their stuff, not big on conversation and they don't take fools lightly (I read on another thread here that Jeff McManus, the bloke with the phone in his back pocket, has poor people skills. Lol, in my book his people skills are spot on, talks little and not into bullsh*t, giving or taking. Fitting the new LSD took just on 4 hours (3 blokes working on it), the part was $736 and the all up cost of the job was $1,400. I recommend their services but if you plan to use them give Jeff Mac a ring then go round and see him. You won't get much conversation, but he will see you are up front and will respond accordingly to your job. Early days for the diff yet, no whines or clunks, and (as JohnnyG said when he had his fitted - read John's thread here - it doesn't seem to have any effect on the traction control software). My LSD is exactly the same as the one you can see in John's pics. I can feel when it cuts in, and the car is more fun when the TCS is turned off. Next steps will be to change the brake pads, then a light breath over the engine - exhaust, air filter, injectors, change the piping, a tune and then some tyres. Having a lot of fun with this car, I do get frustrated with city traffic, being the guy who is 50 metres down the road when the lights change is fun, but I like corners, do get out to some back roads once a week, but am looking forward to putting her on a track. Lol, my about to get his license youngest boy, with whom this has been a bit of a joint project, is hanging out to take it to Calder one Friday night. Happy for him to have a go at the 1/4 mile. Might also try some gymkhana stuff, the kids can drive it in those contexts (have a lead foot daughter who is also a fan of the thing.) Regards Rob

Now that was an experience. Not too many places around that just specialise in diffs these days. Pretty big factory, bits everywhere. These blokes have been doing diffs a long long time. Two old fellas and one young bloke did the job, took them just short of 4 hours start to drive away. Bugger of a job getting the back end out, stripping the diff down, putting in the LSD. The two old blokes have been working together so long watching them work was a treat, taking different roles, but often one step ahead in supporting the other. Went for a walk while they were taking the back end out, a few blocks away saw a V8 supercar (last year's Jack Daniels car) in the front room of a merc specialist, got talking to him, told him where my car was and he said, 'Yeh I get McNamara's to do all my diffs too". That's the 4th bloke in the industry who told me they use them in the last week. Good enough for me. Car seems great, haven't had enough time in it yet, definately getting the power down better, doesn't seem to cause the the traction control software any problems, no whines, clunks or other noises. Nice with the software off. If there were any problems these blokes would have no issue fixing it. Take pride in their work, old style, their word is good. The new diff centre cost $735, $1,400 for the whole job. I recommend them wholeheartedly, but take note Jeff McNamara is a man of few words. If you want a discussion, have questions, give him a call first then go round and talk to him face to face, you'll still get short shift, but he'll know you are upfront and will return same. Say the bloke who baked him the cheese cake sent you, Lol. Jack McNamara Differential Specialist Pty Ltd 25 Levanswell Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189 - ph: (03) 9555 2213 Regards Rob

I'm having an M86 diff fitted tomorrow by Jeff McNamara of Jack McNamara Diffs in Moorabbin. Family business (Jeff is 2nd generation I think with 3rd in training, old school anglo aussie, straight and true bloke of few words - after a working lifetime with diffs I get the feeling there is not much this bloke doesn't know about the subject), I'm told by a number of independent sources that his work is excellent. Quoted price is circa $1,400 for diff and fitting. I'm taking a cheesecake along for smoko and a camera. Happy to let you know how it goes.

There is a slight difference I think. But as taking off with the foot flat did and still does involve a dance between traction loss and the TCS, but with less of a bang, I'm not particularly concerned. And as I am planning some mods including an independent tune in the not too distant future I don't mind.

Have had my G6ET for a couple of weeks now, good car. When I flatten it from standing (or from slow on an uneven road) I get a BANG in the back. Sounds like too soft suspension not enjoying the rush. Had car service yesterday. Mentioned this prob among other things to the dealer. They muttered something about bushes (think I'll visit a suspension specialist). Anyhow the dealer said they 'flushed' (his term) the software. I think he meant flashed, remapped the change points etc. When I booted the thing last night it seemed better, no noise, but squishier rear end as TCS struggled with it. One thing to consider if tossing up between G6ET and XR6T is the absence of an LSD in the G6ET. The TCS is fine for normal driving e.g. if you are a within the speed limits kinda guy, but if you like to turn the TCS off and put your foot into it then you are going to notice the missing LSD and will have to void some s & a bit of the warranty to fit one.

Re Melbourne Tuners if you are uncomfortable about discussing in public please send me a personal message. Thanks in advance Rob

Thanks Hawlass / Ron, I assume you are talking about the Eagle F1 Asymmetric tyre? Rob

Thanks M8, I've been thinking about a set of Potenza RE55S for track days, but the RE01's look a bit more practical.

Thank you gentlemen, I appreciate your advice on tyres, will take all into account when I get through the Dunlops.... lol, won't be long. Now I'd appreciate advice on tuners / tuning houses in Melbourne. I've looked at Nizpro, the Horsepower Factory, Dyno-Mite online. Others? Being an old guy, a long time away from the terminology (when last I was into modding slick transportation the principal keywords were "Giddyup there"). Hence I need to find someone good, patient enough to deal with a bit of a dickhead, who won't rip me off. JohnnyG has been kind enough to give me a list of his mods. These make sense to me - improved air and fuel flow to return circa 310rwkw plus an LSD. Thanks John. So I have an idea what I want to do, but no clear thoughts on who I should get to do the work. I'm in the SE suburbs (Glen Huntly), but happy to go anywhere in the metro area if can get a good relationship with a tuner. Your recommendations would be most welcome. Thanks in advance Rob ps In case you were wondering my handle 'vrrm' derives from the sounds the wife tells me I make when setting out on a day trip to the shops (2.5 blocks) in the walking frame.

Might be there, 9pm is close to my bed time though.

Lol, nah not into lawn bowls, must be the walking frame in the boot. Have always tuned in to the character of a car, but have never been inclined to personify them, until now. This thing demands a name. I'm calling it (Christening is the wrong term) 'Lucifer'. Because it's always tempting me. Love the way it changes into 6th at 170kmph. Thanks for the tyre tips guys. The way I'm going it will be a matter of weeks. Have discovered a few small things not working - passenger side climate control, washers stutter, little things, time for a visit to a dealer. Rob