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B_L_W_N_B_A

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Everything posted by B_L_W_N_B_A

  1. Happy Birthday B_L_W_N_B_A!

  2. Just drove past Newmarket. No rain. It's stopped at everton hills as well. I'm going.
  3. I'm at the Goldy at hi torque. I can see sunshine
  4. ANYONE KEEN FOR A RUN OUT TONIGHT TO HARRYS? JUST GOT THE UTE BACK:)
  5. yeah dude I am pumped, rang up yesterday, hopefully next friday it will be ready.yay
  6. great night, met some new faces, lets keep it going
  7. this may answer some questions Australian Ford Forums - One reason why the BA shudder keeps coming back ! reason why the BA shudder keeps coming back ! G'day , after an exhaustive day with the Nolethane gurus as well as Geoff Murray from Redranger and Steve Borg from TRW Australia, I now have a much better understanding of my car (BA) the BF/FG and the VE front and rear geometry and the factory suspension shortcomings... I started a thread how to change out the hydraulic castor bushes here www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11306516 Now one thing I couldn't explain was why they stopped my brake shudder , my best information out of today is the bush when it fails moves around a heck of a lot and over time even though the wheel is mounted to the rotor and then onto the hub it creates wear points on the face of the rotor called "DTV" Disc Thickness Variation ..... Oh well we just give the rotor a skim and no more problems Right ? Until next time.... I machined my rotors 5 x times before I purchased slotted rotors and the shudder came back ! It became so random and sooo annoying I wouldn't let my girlfriend drive it anywhere.. I changed the front bushes and the shudder dissapeared straight away.... I couldn't explain to anyone why the bushes created shudder if someone had just had their rotors machined and the situation appeared fixed .... Only for 5000-7000kms or so only to return .. Fact , if you replace your front bushes as well as fresh rotors/pads and wirebrush the mating service on the hub you will NEVER get that 'SHUDDER' again..... Ford went to great lengths to explain to us via tech bulletins , how to line up the yellow stud with the date stamp on the rotor / how to torque the wheel nuts correctly ( NEVER use a rattle gun ) so as not to warp the rotor/ and most importantly to keep the mating surfaces free of rust/debris to insure perfect roundness for pad contact... If you follow the correct procedure for maching the rotor and the problem comes back , then it is time to look elsewhere... I have finally fixed mine "Hallelujah". I know I have probably forgotten something because my head is ready to explode with information ... But I hope this sheds some light on our front end , these are essentially Taxis and absorb everything we throw at them but the FPV's are wearing these bushes out much faster and the Brembo's seem to mask the problem because their quality of manufacturing is so high they dont produce DTV very readily .. Thanks for reading and please change your Hydraulic Castor Bushes.. The difference in having precise control of your front end is amazing ..cheers. Daz..x..
  8. driveline services at archerfield also do a very good 2 piece tailshaft. chop ya is running one I believe.....and he makes alot of power
  9. HAHAHAH just did it are my hands are fu******, found out that taking the front bar off was the easiest way of putting it back in. hands are sore......
  10. hey guys, did a search but couldnt find anything, trying to change a right hand side fog light on my xr8, whats the easiest way to do this? any help appreciated blwnba
  11. should be good to go:)
  12. yeah tab put me down as a maybe, have got to confirm dates with work. in the same position as kyle173, hopefully it all turns out good, update you tomorrow.
  13. haha no probs tab
  14. anyone keen to meet at harrys diner tonight? say around 6-630?
  15. replacing rear cv for $138, extra for balancing etc. so hopefully should be about 200. heres some photos, as you can see it blew pretty bad I rang ford and they told me they cant replace that part, they will only replace the whole tailshaft for $2500 ......wtf.
  16. Quick update. Turned out it was my rear cv on the tailshaft. Made it to coffs before it blew. Driveline services are fixing it for me.
  17. mate im in north shore atm. found out it wasnt my diff but it is my tailshaft. was caused by my suspension being loose which allowed my diff to move down when I launched which has worn out my rear cv. hopefully it wont cost to much. I am taking it out to sydney driveline service in greenacre for them to have a look at it. its a ute with a 2 piece shaft
  18. hey guys I need some help. drove from brissy to sydney, got a very weird noise starting to happen. sounds like a metallic scraping noise when I drive but it only happens when I put my foot down. its fine at a constant speed. does anybody have an idea what this is, I jacked both wheels up and put it in first but the sound was hardly there, is this my diff. need help, stuck in sydney and need to get it to a good mechanic
  19. yeah let us know when we are near there
  20. FRI Mostly Sunny. Mild. 9 km/h NE - 51% 15 -27 just looked up weather looks to be fine great route as well
  21. huh? u no maka sensa cruise is friday mate
  22. watch out kyle or I might jump you outside your room again.hahah
  23. found this while on uniquecar sales obviously they are high unique
  24. shouldnt be too bad at night though should it? kyle127 dont blow your engine again hahahah whens it getting tuned?
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