cutsnake

Agreed , maybe that why the moved it!

I just ordered (winning bidder) a Pro Comp Gtech from ebay. This is the one that can be upgraded to full RR spec but still have the blue backlight screen (to go with the rest of the T dash ) It should arrive within a week, I will let you know the results when it arrives. P.S I had the older (cheapy) Pro model, but quickly got bored with it as you cannot download 1/4 mile or race data to a PC, plus the newer unit has a lot more features... Cutsnake.

Thanks for that, I didnt bother tracing back the piping Do you mean that the p/steering cooler was moved from the front of the intercooler to above it in later builds?? CutSnake

Just a quick q on the tranny cooler... Did Ford move the tranny cooler between certain build dates? Most T's I've seen have it mounted down low in front of the intercooler, where mine is above the intercooler. Anyone know the reason why??? Thanks CutSnake

I had the same problem (going up hill) I complained of overboost but my dealer told me it was high speed miss-fire (car has more load going uphill?). The fix was to regap the plugs. Don't know if this was bull on not, but I have not had a problem since... P.S. Boost gauge shows 6 PSI and even more sometimes so I don't think they bypassed the solenoid to fix my problem. Cutsnake <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just out of interest, are you using premium (98 octane) or 95 octane or normal unleaded (92-3 octane) petrol? What you state, and the fact a hill is involved makes me wonder if your ECU is winding things back because it is sensing detonation approaching fast. If you dont use 98 Octane, run your tank near empty, fill it up with Shell Optimax or better yet Mobil 8000 (I find it runs that little bit better in XR6T's), and then see if the same problem occurs at the same place (or similar places). Whilst you can technically run a 6T on standard unleaded, it wont run as well on hot days or under load (such as up hills). Its timing will be changed to suit the lower octane fuel. May not be your problem, but I have had similar problems in other cars caused by lower octane fuel and the ECU's alteration of timing to prevent detonation. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The T is always on Shell Optimax...

So what you are saying is that the only way to empty the "F" slot is to get the software from CAPA? And this can only be done 5 times before a trip to the States? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> This seems to be the case....

I had a look at the original software that uploads the files to the flasher and it only allows you to upload to one of three slots (I.e. not F).. Also after digging up some more info I found this response in the SCT forum for a similar question. The reply is from the designers of the product:- no, the F is always the factory program that is first loaded into the Xcalibrator's memory the first time it is connected to a vehicle. You can flash from performance program to performance program without a problem. Cutsnake

I cant see how this could be correct.... when you load the factory map back into your car you load the whole setting in, and you can then use the flasher on a different car if you wanted to... ie, that would mean nothing is kept in the slot once loaded back into the car Remember that you can use the flasher on up to 5 different cars, obviously not at the same time <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You can only use the flasher on different cars once the unit has been reset by CAPA software (up to 5 times). After this it needs to be sent to the USA for resetting. This is according to CAPA's web site. I am still convinced that F memory slot get loaded once (unless CAPA reset it with their software) Anoyne elso have some thoughts???

Hi All, I am considering an edit but have found a snag re the ability for Ford to detect it being used....... Appologies if this is not quite correct.... Reading some online info on the SCT Xcalibrator (the same unit), the information tends to suggest that the F memory storage gets loaded with the factory ECU once and is kept in memory the very first time the flasher is connected to a vehicle (where it also records the VIN etc...). The objective is to load your 8 or 10 PSI map and then return it to factory when due for a service.....But, if at a later stage Ford service upgrades your software in your ECU they will have a record of this and would be quite surprised if at the next service (or a warranty claim) they find the original ECU software loaded as originally stored in the F memory (when you first connected).......In other words the F memory slot will only hold one image which is the factory software when you first connect the flasher. The only way around this would be to insist Ford never upgrade your ECU after you purchase the flasher (but they may get suspicous). If I am right, I recommend everyone get the very latest factory ECU software loaded before you plug-in your flasher... Please correct me if I am wrong.. Cutsnake

I had the same problem (going up hill) I complained of overboost but my dealer told me it was high speed miss-fire (car has more load going uphill?). The fix was to regap the plugs. Don't know if this was bull on not, but I have not had a problem since... P.S. Boost gauge shows 6 PSI and even more sometimes so I don't think they bypassed the solenoid to fix my problem. Cutsnake

Does the colour affect peformance? I guess most if not all radiators are black because that is the best colour for heat transfer, right?? Then again I thought black absorbed heat more which is something we don't want in an intercooler ???? Any thoughts? Cutsnake

Speaking of which, when I removed the dump side hose from my BOV I noticed that there was some leakage during idle. Is this normal?? btw...the rattle in my earlier post is definately the BOV as it changed to the ricey phssssss sound with the dump hose temporarily removed... Thanks Cutsnake

I am confused What is the stock blow off valve meant to sound like?? When I back off after a quick hard rev, I always get what I call more of a loud rattle sound? is this what people are refering to as the kookaburra laughing sound?If so I am little worried about it doing damage to the turbo. Has anyone captured any sounds of their stock or aftermarket BOV, if so It would be great to post them here so we can compare.. (pics would be great too) Thanks Cutsnake

Thanks for pointing this out guys.... I had my dealer check the side wall cracks on one of my tyres during the 45K service. To my delight, they replaced all four under warranty as all tyres where starting to exhibit the problem. I only had to pay for a wheel alignment which is OK considering I have around $1000 worth of tyres for nothing :o Cutsnake

No, it is what the STB draws, not what gets pushed...if you know what I mean... Regards Cutsnake

Not possible with the TEAC and I don't know of many that will let you do it. Also regarding the update of the instructions, there doesn't seem to be that much demand for it so I didn't bother, and now I have been travelling at least once a week which makes it hard to devote time to it......btw I am writing this from Japan....boy I wish I had my T with me . There is certainly more than enough information in the forum to do the job.. If you need assistance I am sure there are many that are willing to help. BTW....If anyone want's to devote some time to update the instructions, then I am more than happy to let you utilise my material.... Regards Cutsnake

Try and set back to factory defaults (menu option) and then rescan..... Regards Cutsnake

Good work YCL Did you mount the STB in the boot? I have settled for under the front passenger seat, it is small enough not to be seen and keeps cable runs short. Let us know how you go with the antenna design.. BTW.. I am now using a small TEAC 'rabbit ears' antenna (non amplified), it has suction cups on the base so I have stuck it on the rear glass towards one corner. Looks kinda ugly but is currently performing better than the amplified caravan antenna. Regards Cutsnake

Mine use to overboost when engine was still cool and on cold mornings when given a bit of a kick in the guts. Temporarily backing of the loud petal helped get it back to normal running Told FORD about it at the 25K service and they said that this was high speed missfire ??? and would sort it out with a regaping of the spark plugs. I haven't had it since but mornings are now a lot warmer. I wonder if they slightly turned down the boost on my car ?? P.S Car is totally stock... Regards Cutsnake

Hey xlnt6, Good to see you have your tv up and running. I also use the gutted caravan antenna, it seems the best option so far I haven't had any spare time to 'tweak' the antenna due to an enormous amount of travel for work I'm looking forward to seeing details on your auto switching option. Good work! For those that are just catching this thread, you will find some additional info re the TEAC remote control connection within a seperate thread within this forum. Regards CutSnake

Thanks for the comments Sykes, Unfortunately my daily job also extends weekends quite a few times and involves a fair amount of interstate travel, so I would not have time to create 'kits' as suggested. Someone else might like to take up Sykes suggestion and make some $$ in the process?? Regards CutSnake

The mod can cost as little as $300-400 dollars DIY. The TEAC STB we are using is being replaced by the DVB420, but you should still be able to pickup a DVB400 from places like JB Hi-Fi, The good guys....etc... Regards Cutsnake

I haven't bothered yet.. Will get to it in-time. May have to relocate the leads or use cabling with better sheilding?

:lol: I had this whine through the Aux input and a few passengers thought it was the turbo whistling

Hi all It seems that there may be a simple solution to connecting the I.R from the ICC screen to the TEAC box. After opening up the box and removing the front pcb that holds the TEAC IR receiver and power / ch change buttons, all you need to do is lift (or cut) a wire jumper ( marked jumper 2) and solder a lead wire that then connects to the ICC I.R connector pin. I have attached an image below to help you locate the jumper and wire into the correct side of the pcb. Now all I do is sit the box under the passenger seat and change channels by pointing the TEAC remote to the BA screen btw... Fabian from TEAC is trying a mod and will post next week in the Dig TV forum. I bet his mod is the same as mine.. Next I am going to see if I can free a pin on the TEAC SCART connector and use this to feed the I.R (rather than using another wire coming out of the box) Bye for now Cutsnake