Sprjenkins

I had Tein coilovers on my BA Sedan, with the higher performance spring rate and to tell you the truth they were disapointing. Also they are height adjustable but what use is that if when you change suspension height your wheel alignment goes out. Next time I'll probably go for Bilstein springs and shocks. Your suspension pickup points must remain the same but that doesn't mean you can't get custom control arms made up. V8 supercars run -6 degrees camber on the front and you'll never get close to that without changing you control arms or suspension pick up points. Brembo calipers of a Super Pursuit will make a massive difference over your standard brakes but they are still road car calipers. You would be much better off getting a brand new set of Brembo monoblocks designed for a Porsche Cup Car for around $600 new (Porsche 996, 997 are more expensive if I remember correctly). You will need to have custom brackets made which will set you back $600 for the pair but your brakes will be so much better for it. Cheers Joel

HAHA, took out the boat anchor and then ran 9 seconds a lap slower than a V8 Supercar, massive massive fail!

The thing is to be able to do mid to high 12s in a stock F6, you have to be a drag strip with a sticky surface, adjusting your tire pressures, doing burnouts etc. Magazines don't test that way. They test with standard tyre pressures, usually not doing burnouts, OEM tyres and usually on airport runways where the grip is no way near as good. I'd be very suprised if a stock F6 truly was capable of doing sub 13s in every day conditions out on the street.

Hi Guys, I'm heading to Sandown on Sunday and I was planning to have my AP Racing setup on the car but it hasn't turned up in time. Does anyone in Melbourne have a spare set of decent pads they can sell me to fit a BA MK II XR6T? Cheers Joel

You could get some second hand slicks for about $800 in really good condition and they will absolutely flog any semi slick on the market. My best time at Phillip Island on A048's was 2.03, with slicks it was 1.56 35R from the Skyline forums and LS1 runs the same tyres and he says at least 1.5secs a lap quicker at Wakefield then brand new RE55's. The RE55's or anyother decent semi for that matter will cost you at least $2500 as well.

That's the one

There's a Chip Control Dyno Day in Sunbury on Sunday so watch this space...

that's a lot of money. I'm probably going to go with the Spool gear when I get around to it.

Spool forged conrods and CP forged pistons are $2090 all up. I don't know how expensive Atomic gear is but I doubt if you'll get conrods and pistons for under that price. The Spool conrods by themselves are $780, I'm not sure how much the I beam ones are. They're running in some pretty big horsepower cars. Spool conrod specs: CONROD B/E S/E C/C WEIGHT ARP BOLT Ford XR6 Falcon 56.8706mm 22mm SF 153.92mm 652 3/8 Ford XR6 Falcon - I Beam 56.8706mm 22mm SF 153.92mm 550 3/8

It was on Nick's dyno @ XTC. Valve springs were an issue at 310rwkw until we changed the cat, now there's no issue at 336rwkw but its on the list of things to do. Its an Exedy heavy duty clutch that was put in 20,000km's ago. It slips over 3000rpm but not that badly. At the moment I'm taking it easy until I put in an option 3 clutch. The AFR's were fine at 355rwkw but that's suppossed to be just about the limit for the pump that's in there so it was tuned back to 336rwkw. I'll have to get the print out off Nick, in the excitement of tuning it back from 355rwkw before we broke anything we forgot to print it out. From memory its running around 14 PSI on 98 octane but that's only going off memory and may not be accurate. If your not busy tonight Danny your more then welcome to have a look at it yourself. I'll send you a pm, if nothing else I wouldn't mind hearing your opinion in person. Engine internals are on the list as well but its starting to get to be a long list. I had a Walbro GSS-342 255lph pump in there but it died pretty quickly. Brembo GT3 Cup 6/4 Piston Brakes, Option 3 clutch, Valve Spings, Engine Internals, High Flow Pump

They're Michelin Porsche Cup Slicks None of this half hearted semi slick nonsense

I'm running 24-64/18's I've heard you can run 27-65/18's on the back on a 10in wide wheel but I've never tried

These aren't the actual calipers, just some old ones I'm using to have the mounts made up, but you get the idea, look just like this but newer http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s116/sprjenkins/Photo0029.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s116/sprjenkins/Photo0030.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s116/sprjenkins/Photo0031.jpg

The Harrops are actually a pretty decent price and I'd imagine they would pull up great but they are still a two piece caliper and a fair bit smaller then the Porsche/Brembo Forged Monoblock. I'm currently running 355rwkw for the track so I want as big as I can get. LOL, all up it should cost $3500 drive away. Considering you would pay $5500-$7000 for the equivalent AP Racing or Alcon and still have a smaller pad then what this will be I think its a pretty good deal. I can organise plenty of rotors and pads but they probably wouldn't do you much good if you didn't have the same caliper or the correct rotor hat to suit the brembo rotors. I actually have a second set of calipers if someone would be interested in the same setup...

Hi guys, Thought you may be interested in a mod I'm currently carrying out. I've got a couple of sets of 6 piston Porsche GT3 Cup calipers. These are the forged 6 piston brembo calipers that come straight off the GT3 race car. They are going to fit on 380mm brembo 2 piece rotors with custom mounts and hats made and new braided lines. I've also got the option of going with 355mm Brembo one piece or 350mm Brembo two piece that will both fit under 18in wheels. This should pull up like nothing else and it has the advantage of a continuing supply of Brembo rotors for $200 each and Project Mu/Pagid/Porsche race pads for $100. Can't wait for the first event in March.

Hi guys, Just made 355rwkw and 1189nm on the dyno tonight. Fantastic result but we then reduced the boost and timing as its running the factory valve springs and fuel pump. The end result was 336rwkw. The mods I have are Siemens 660cc injectors, XCAL1, Monza intercooler, F6 lower intake, K&N Filter, modified dump pipe attachment, high flow cat and new spark plugs.

I'll send you a PM to take this off the thread, but basically they are $640 a tyre brand new. You can pick up a really used set for $50 a tyre but they probably will be flogged. $150-$200 a tyre will get you a good used set with lots of life left in them. As an example of how quick they are around Wakefield, a mate of mine running a stock apart from a tune R35 GTR with Porsche Cup Slicks ran a 1.04.00 at the private TrackChat trackday on Dec 14. This would have broken the improved production track record by two seconds in a full weight daily driven car.

Second hand Michelin Porsche Cup Slicks are definately your best value for money and are also a lot cheaper than new semi's. I have a set just off Bryce Washington's Porsche you can have and they'll be 1.5 to 2 seconds a lap quicker then the RE55s Cheers Joel

Stopping rotational motion is the same principle no matter what the function. Big brakes will reduce your stopping distance no matter what tyres you are running, its exactly like braking a train or a belt sander. When you brake you are trying to convert kinetic energy into heat energy. If your maximum grip level is, lets say an arbitrary figure of 100, then if you can convert a greater amount of kinetic energy through greater friction without locking up the wheel or exceeding the maximum grip level then you will stop quicker. As someone else said, braking is about energy conversion, energy is converted through the tyres friction on the road and the pads friction on the rotor. If you hold the former constant while increasing the later you wwill stop quicker.

I use the Pedders stuff in my AU and its been brilliant, no complaints whatsoever. The Expensive Daewoo guys on LS1 use them as well and they seem to love them. I can't find anyone who has a complaint who has actually put the Pedders Coilovers on their car. I'm very storngly considering putting them on my XR6T

The energy conversion comes from the amount of friction you can apply at a given pressure. I just shudder to think that people think they can do an emergency stop as quick with crappy stock brakes just because they can lock the wheels up and have ABS. I hope they're not behind me

No they're not, not even close. In a single application, discounting repeated stops, bigger brakes will most definately reduce you stopping distance. When you put bigger calipers on you are increasing the pad area over your standard brakes therefore increasing friction. Whether you can exert enough pressure to lock the wheel has little affect on your stopping distance. What determines your stopping distance is how much friction you can exert below the pressure threshold to lock the wheel. ABS detects a locked wheel and backs off the brakes. Putting bigger brakes on will not affect ABS, in fact it makes it more effective. I'll give you an example, if you were to push a thin metal spike onto a linishing machine(belt sander)you would have little affect on slowing the belt, shove it on with enough pressure however and you will stop the belt though. You cant exert enough friction to make much difference before locking up the belt. However if you had a big steel block you could push that onto the linisher and slow the belt down without stopping it. Its the same with your brakes, a small standard set of brakes doesn't have a pad area and the friction co-efficient to stop the car very well without locking the brakes. that's why we have bigger calipers with a bigger pad surface area, more pistons for a more even distribution of force and a larger rotor for a greater rotational force. In a single stop big brakes are absolutely, positively guaranteed to stop you faster.

LOL, that's not how it works at all. The number one thing to do too reduce braking distances is upgraded pads with a higher coefficient of friction. Your getting confused betwen friction and pressure. Small single piston brakes can apply enough pressure to lock a disc but it wont apply much friction. Bigger calipers and therefore larger pads can apply a greater amount of friction at a low pressure and therefore not lock the rotor. The larger rotor has two effects. Firstly it has a greater surface area which enables you to have a larger contact surface between the pad and the disc. Secondly it means that a greater rotational force will be applied to the wheel. Fitting larger brakes, Brembos, Alcons etc, will absolutely reduce your braking distance. Even just better pads with a higher co-efficient has massive effect. Just changing pads from Bendix to QFM K750's reduced my braking distance by 50 meters into turn 1 at Sandown

Your Name: Joel Jenkins Car Make and Model: Ford Falcon BA MK II XR6 Turbo Circuit Name: Winton Lap time: 1:44.76 Modifications: 27mm Front Swaybar Engine: Stock Power: 198.9 RWKW Suspension: Stock apart from swaybar Tyres: Michelin Porsche Cup Slicks Brakes: Standard calipers, 298mm front RDA slotted rotor, Bendix road pads, stock rotor and pads rear Body weight: Stock

Neither club is CAMS affiliated so that will severly affect your ability to go out for track days. I'd be looking for a CAMS club on the CAMS website www.cams.com.au