Wanting To Do Track Days

[F6RD]

I am wanting to do some track days and have heard there is a Victoria XR club?

If anyone could put me onto this club or similar that would be great. My car is semi set up for racing now, and have always wanted to drive it around the phillip island track.

I get my license back in a month and im hangin to race it.

I have taken it to calder and it ran a 12.08 @ 118.16 mph. And that was with a full tank of petrol and almost bald rear street tyres. So I reckon it will go high 11's quiet easily. After recently installing a surge tank, new tyres, new diff bush and 20% under drive balancer.

So any help would be appreciated Thanks.

Edited 24/07/10 02:18 AM by F6RD

[nelsonian101]

Can't help with the XR club but I do a few track days in my FGXR6T each year.

Track days are great fun. Is this your first at the circuit other than the drag strip?

If it is, you'll quickly find out that tyres, brakes and suspension are a lot more important than rwkw, and times down the quarter (although impressive) mean very little.

Was in the same position as you a few years back, but modded the opposite way. Chassis first, then power for me.

Don't get too hung up on mods though, and enjoy it!!

It all depends on what your budget allows to get the car handling.

If you plan to keep the car for a few more years, it's a good idea to do the handling mods bit by bit as you need to, as your times come down. It's always exciting and rewarding to do this, and gives great satisfaction.

As a bare minimum:

- Tyres: What type of new tyres do you have exactly? KU36's are a cost effective start (if using same rims street and track) but be aware that these pressures will sky rocket to over 50psi after a few sessions, depending on ambient and track temp obviously. Start with about 35psi and let air out as soon as you come in. Aim for mid to high 30's hot.

- Change your brake fluid ASAP!!. Super DOT 4 is fine for your first track day, but DOT 5.1 is preferred. Anything over that is overkill for a road car as 6 attracts too much water on the road. Look at Race brakes sponsor.

- Brakes (cheap mods). You must do something to your fronts as a minimum. Fronts are the most important and pads like Ferodo DS2500 or EBC Reds will be fine for a first track day. If budget allows, get some slotted DBA4000 front rotors too.

- Brakes (next stage). Depending on the track, I guarantee, first thing you'll whinge about in the pits (like we all do ... ), is your lack of brakes! When the stock calipers no longer cut it and with multiple 1800kg stops from 200km/h at the Island, they really don't......look into front 4pot Brembos with 355mm rotors and a second set of 18" FPV wheels to clear them (sometimes hard to find)

Vented 328mm rears are also a good upgrade too later. If your car has the solid rear discs, be vary careful not to put your handbrake on in the pits when you stop s the rear discs will warp badly.

With stickier tyres, you'll find intitially that braking will improve due to the stickier compound but this will boil your stock fluid quicker, especially if it's old.

Diff oil is cheap and extremely easy to change. I would definitely recommend this.

I also recommend an oil cooler. I use an FPV one. I think Rapid Systems sell one too. Stock radiator is fine depending on where you live. I think user ROSIE has improved the radiator though. I think PWR have one, but it's not necessary at this stage. Just make sure you do a cool down lap.

With regard to wheel alignment, more negative camber at the front is definately recommended. 1.5-2 deg is a good compromise. Some guys use up to 4deg neg front running slicks. Be aware this will chew your inner edges on the road. Just rotate more often.

What suspension are you running?

Body roll is hideous on the stock set up.

Later down the track, look at bigger sway bars.

Edited 24/07/10 09:34 AM by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY

[F6RD]

Hey Mate thanks for the reply and advice.

Currently my set up is like I said, semi set up for track, the first thing I changed after lowering my car was the sway bars I installed whiteline 28mm front sway bars and 22mm rear one of the best mods I have done, the body roll was shocking at high speeds. Then I installed koni adjustable shockers, changed the the upper and lower control arm bushes and a camber kit.

I have 4pot brembos and larger pbr rear calipers and rotors topped off with braided brake lines. although I wouldnt mind 6 pots and 4 pot rears.

As mentioned I replaced my shagged out diff bush which was a fairly expensive mod.But has made a great difference.

Also bunged up the radiator trans cooler and installed a pwr exsternal cooler.

Im running fpv gtp aftermarket rims which im sketchy on, with Falken tyres. Had previously used Kuhmo which were good.

Also have gtp seats to stop me sliding around in my seat. My next mod will probably be a oil cooler.

By the way do you have a phone number for the club you race with?

[ratter]

A bigger cooler will help keep the power more consistant.

[Rosie]

Why don't you wander out to Philip Island on the Weekend 0f the 7th-8th!

- There is a Regularity event there all Weekend and I'm sure, with '50' four Man Teams competing, you will find plenty of Car Clubs to join!

You will also find most of the people at these events are only too pleased to steer you in the right direction!

[F6RD]

Ah Awsome thanks for that ill have to go down and check it out Cheers

Edited 24/07/10 09:36 AM by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY

[F6RD]

A bigger cooler will help keep the power more consistant.

Hi Mick what cooler would recommend? I dont mind the look of the HDI cooler but dont really want to take an angle grinder to the crash bar. Whats the biggest cooler you can get without having to do that?

By the way thanks again for all the work great work, the car is running real well.

Was gonna go to calder today but my mate was crook, hangin to get back and try for 11's.

[jimmy1234]

Might be worth your time to have a look at John Bowe driving or some similar drive training... Some advice and technique help will make all future track days some much more productive and enjoyable...

[ratter]

Your cooler is probably fine with short bursts of power but continual use on a race track will show it's limits pretty quickly.

There are quite a few full size coolers out there, but most need to have the front crash bar cut/trimmed back a bit, The Nizpro cooler does not require cutting of the front crash bar.

[nelsonian101]

Hey Mate thanks for the reply and advice.

Currently my set up is like I said, semi set up for track, the first thing I changed after lowering my car was the sway bars I installed whiteline 28mm front sway bars and 22mm rear one of the best mods I have done, the body roll was shocking at high speeds. Then I installed koni adjustable shockers, changed the the upper and lower control arm bushes and a camber kit.

I have 4pot brembos and larger pbr rear calipers and rotors topped off with braided brake lines. although I wouldnt mind 6 pots and 4 pot rears.

As mentioned I replaced my shagged out diff bush which was a fairly expensive mod.But has made a great difference.

Also bunged up the radiator trans cooler and installed a pwr exsternal cooler.

Im running fpv gtp aftermarket rims which im sketchy on, with Falken tyres. Had previously used Kuhmo which were good.

Also have gtp seats to stop me sliding around in my seat. My next mod will probably be a oil cooler.

By the way do you have a phone number for the club you race with?

Looks like you already have everything sorted. 5.1 brake fluid change and engine oil change are you are ready to roll.

Are you running with the Koni Yellows and are you using 245 RT615's on those 8" gtp wheels? The RT615's aren't really a proper semi but far better in my opinion than a street tyre. I've found them a bit better than Kumho KU36's but not in the same league as a proper semi like Toyo R888's. There is a HUGE amount of time to be made up with tyre choice alone. 2nd hand FRONT 18" 245 Porsche cup slicks are the cheapest and fastest choice if you can find them.

If you are using the stock drivers seat, I've found that tightening the belt as much as possible just before you head out for a session helps prevent you sliding around. I.e.exhaling and sitting as far back as possible then pulling on the belt hard.

Can't help sorry with XR clubs but they might be able to help here?

Australian Ford Forums - Sprints, Circuit, Hill Climb and Drifting