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  • Damn You's A Sexy Chich
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Your House
Posted

mine is on the rear of the seat best not to mount it behind trims and stuff as it might overheat in a confined space, plus its out of the way there anyway... what amp and sub/s are you going to be running?

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  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 6m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

Reading the haynes manual, I see that the 2 yellow wires are constant plus, the 2 little black cables go to earth, and yellow, green + red all go to the ICC, not too sure which one is which though.

Hope this helps

Marc

  • <put funny sh*t here>
  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 10m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, NOR
Posted

Cheers marcthelegend!

onboost, it will probably be like a 500-600W monoblock amp to power the sub only. I have a free-air pioneer 8" sub and a JBL 8" sub in the factory location and whichever one sounds the best with some more power will stay in the car :) The other one can stay in its box or I'll sell it.

Nothing overboard, no way it will be as good as a 10 or 12" but I like my stuff to stay hidden.

  • Damn You's A Sexy Chich
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Your House
Posted (edited)

Sounds good, let us know how you get on and if you get stuck send me a pm.

Edited by onboost
  • <put funny sh*t here>
  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 10m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, NOR
Posted

Well I bought the MTX TA 4501 amp, rated at 250W RMS @ 4 Ohm, but actually "dyno" measured at 338W RMS.. sweeet, completely overkill for the 8" sub but there's future expansion capabilities there.

It does not need a trigger/remote wire from the head unit which is great, it auto senses a signal and turns itself on. All I need to do is tap into some speaker wires for the input signal.

MTX recommends splicing into the rear Left and Right speaker cables and using that, but on our cars they have gone through the factory crossover and most of the bass will be trimmed off from these speakers.

So I either have to use the signal coming from the ICC into the factory amp, or use the amplified signal coming out of the amp into the sub.

What do you rekon is a better one to use?

  • Suspended
  • Member For: 18y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: sydney
Posted
Hi all.

I've searched the whole forum a few times, and I've got a few helpful responses from various people (Rapid..etc), but I just want to clear a few things up before I start chopping wiring looms..

What im wanting to do, is buy an aftermarket monoblock amp and use that to power my JBL/Pioneer 8" sub in the parcel shelf. I have a premium sound car so it has the factory amp driving the sub, but as we all know its weak as anything.

So my options are to either buy a line level converter thingo, and tap into a speaker wire somewhere or what has been suggested is to cut a few wires in the stock amp wiring loom (sub signal from ICC) and use those as the signal into the new amp. But im not sure which ones they are.

Here is a photo of the wiring loom going into the factory amp.

amp_plug.jpg

The two blue wires are the amplified signal going to the sub, so it rules those two wires out.

Anyone know which two wires are the sub signal from the ICC to the amp? Then I can cut that wire at the loom, and feed that into the new amp. Most new amps have a speaker detection thing where they will turn on when they sense input into them. This eliminates the need for me to run a "remote" wire to turn on the amp.

Also it has been told to me that the standard amp is a crossover for the front speakers, and its recommended that I keep the old amp in place, and plugged in, so that it continues to provide a crossover output to the speakers (to cut out the bass from those speakers).

However, if this is the case, then how come right now I have my factory amp loom unplugged, yet im still getting sound from the front/rear speakers? ( I have not checked them all, but it seems like they are all working - minus the sub).

the stock has a crossover in it leave it conected the woofer wires are the two blue ones

  • Damn You's A Sexy Chich
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Your House
Posted

I used the signal coming out of the amp into the sub, which was the wires going to the stock sub usually you would splice into the rear speaker wires however using the sub wires in our cars means bass is filtered even before the signal is sent to the new amp, so as I said it makes for a cleaner and stronger "bass only" signal, its only any good for if you are runnin subs only, if you want to run another amp for speakers then you have to get that signal from your speakers so you get the correct signal.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Queensland
Posted

hi,

I've recently purchased a fairmont with premium sound...and unfortunately due to the bass in some of the songs I listen to I have blown the voice coil on my sub...it distorts something chronic now. Is it possible to run a 12 inch Rockford Fostgate p1 sub off the standard amp, or would it draw too much from the amp? What is easier t, run a new amp for the sub from the existing amps wiring loom or just use a signal convertor from the subs original wiring. Plus does the standard amp have a REM wire or does it just turn on with ignition? In need of desperate help. Kezz

  • Damn You's A Sexy Chich
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Your House
Posted

read all the post's in this thread and you will find most of your answers, and no I personally wouldn't run the 12" p1 of the stock amp

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adeliade
Posted

just out of curiosty coz I`m upgrading my speakers I thought the sub was 10"

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