hey Ruger, did you get those intake tubing and silicon hoses from supercheap or repco?

I was in both those stores today. It got me thinking of making up my own intake pipe from the airbox to the throttle body.

They have some 180, 90, 45 degree bend pipes. Plus the silcon hoses too.

hey Ruger, did you get those intake tubing and silicon hoses from supercheap or repco?

I was in both those stores today. It got me thinking of making up my own intake pipe from the airbox to the throttle body.

They have some 180, 90, 45 degree bend pipes. Plus the silcon hoses too.

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Yep ive seen those hoses.

Ill give you the run down lol

Supercheap $70 for a 45 degree bend ok quality nothing to sneeze at looks like plastic to be honest.

Repco $99 90 degree bend the quality is pretty so so. its chrome plated mild steel (I had one of their straight pipes and the coating flaked off after about a year.

I got mine off ebay I think ebay links are a no no here so search for

90Deg 3" Polished Stainless Steel Long Leg Mandrel Bend

the seller is nahux and that 90 degree polished STAINLESS (not chrome plated rubbish) bend and its only $25 (supercheap can kiss my ass ) . youll need 3x90 degree bends and 1x45 degree bend

it wont just fit together perfect either youll need to cut the tails off the 2 first bends youll need to do some cutting, grinding and putting your shoulders into it but its fairly simple

I spent $220 on stainless and silicone on that ebay shop you could imagine what that would cost at repco or supercheap.

it would be good to do the whole lot in silicone do because it would block the heat a little better.

Ahh... Nahux... I've dealt with him before... Got my undercar LED kit and one for my mate as well...

Since you guys are talking about pipes... know where I can grab a short 45' bend Red Silicon Pipe? I've decided to start colour coding by engine bay...

so with the 3x90degree bends and 1x45degree bend, it will work from the airbox to the throttle body. do I need any straight piping?

you may need one piece but youd be able to get away with using the stock flex pipe. on my one now im using a straight piece going from through the openng in the airbox to a pod filter but its just an offcut from one of the 90's ill post a pic up today.

youll also need 4 bits of the silicone joiner (1 for the TB, 1 for the first join (that first join is tight very tight) half for the second join half for the third join and another one for the fourth join) youll also need about a dozen hose clamps (I had over 25 hose clamps used in my twin tb setup lol)

. if your on a tight budget just go the supercheap one joiner. its light blue like the silicone but its just rubber its only 10 dollars. id be worried about it in boosted applications but in na the rubber should be fine.

I'll be leaning towards to supercheap rubber hose more, as you said good enough for a n/a application.

I was thinking of getting rid of the flexy hose, less air turbulance, the boss engines have that "power snorkle" mod, which replaces the flexy hose on those engines. but not suitable for I6's.

When I finally do this, weather a home made intake or get a exhaust shop to do it, I'm also gonna get a oil catch can, keep the plenum nice and clean.

Look forward to your pics tonight, might persuade me do the home intake instead.

Would'nt aliminium be better than stainless steel pipes, less heat soak? pluss there lighter?

I'll be leaning towards to supercheap rubber hose more, as you said good enough for a n/a application.

I was thinking of getting rid of the flexy hose, less air turbulance, the boss engines have that "power snorkle" mod, which replaces the flexy hose on those engines. but not suitable for I6's.

When I finally do this, weather a home made intake or get a exhaust shop to do it, I'm also gonna get a oil catch can, keep the plenum nice and clean.

Look forward to your pics tonight,  might persuade me do the home intake instead.

Would'nt aliminium be better than stainless steel pipes, less heat soak? pluss there lighter?

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aluminium is lighter easier to cut and conducts heat more. the aluminium pipe as well as cooling off quicker it will heat up quicker. im not sure which would get hotter really but it probably wouldnt make much of a difference the air isnt in the pipe for long at all especially at WOT.

Ill go get pics soon theyll be up in an hour or so.

and yer im not running the flex pipe anymore.

Al how did the tape hold up on your intake pipe :D?

Edited January 31, 200719 yr by Ruger

couldnt edit my other post so here are the pics. you can see how beat up my paint work is on the rad support and gaurds. the cars getting a complete color change and while were at it were going to repaint the rad support and do the engine cover in the color of the car. the last pic is of the air intake pipe that goes to the bumper and goes through where the washer bottle used to be.

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Also I just took off the pipe and the inside of the silicone pipe is a good 10-15 degrees cooler than the stainless. so best thing you could do is the whole lot in silicone.

Edited January 31, 200719 yr by Ruger

Hey ruger...

Just wondering if you have a error code manual to see why it wasn't happening? I'd be happy to do some refinement to yours if you want to work like that? I have access to an error code manual and a full blown ford mechanic...

Any discussion or "go blow" comment is welcomed... just thought if you really have put it on the backburner I could take it off your hands and work from where you left it?

I don't mind startign from scratch only that I have to make the design, get some one to make it for me, do the testing, remake it. blah blah blah... no problems though...

Hey ruger...

Just wondering if you have a error code manual to see why it wasn't happening? I'd be happy to do some refinement to yours if you want to work like that? I have access to an error code manual and a full blown ford mechanic...

Any discussion or "go blow" comment is welcomed... just thought if you really have put it on the backburner    I could take it off your hands and work from where you left it?   

I don't mind startign from scratch only that I have to make the design, get some one to make it for me, do the testing, remake it. blah blah blah... no problems though...

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No I didnt have my scanner back then so I couldnt get error codes to see what was going on :( there was no vacuum leaks and I tried it 3 or 4 times and it never worked after I put the extractors on.

Id love for that to see it going but lets just say it isnt in my possesion anymore im not allowed to give out too much details but it will be put through its paces I assure you. Lets just say it will be put through its paces by (in my mind) the greatest tuner in the country on naturally aspirated late model engines.

If it can happen it will happen!

On the other hand if you want to get your own built I recomend Mitch from Jays RPD he did an awesome job on mine and it was flawless. If you wanna be different though go for a 6tb setup : they do those too. youll get it complete ready to fit and all youll have to do is get it tuned

Edited January 31, 200719 yr by Ruger