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I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converters

sory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagram

but from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem sound

goes like this

red=accesory

green=diagnostics

yellow=in positive

shield=in negative

two thick yellow=battery power

blacks=earth (I think)

blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)

blue=not shore

the positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is

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I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converters

sory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagram

but from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem sound

goes like this

red=accesory

green=diagnostics

yellow=in positive

shield=in negative

two thick yellow=battery power

blacks=earth (I think)

blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)

blue=not shore

the positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You are right with the wiring the blue is the positive to the sub.

You should be able to get an amp that takes speaker level inputs.

Ian

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  • Member For: 22y 2m 27d
I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converters

sory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagram

but from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem sound

goes like this

red=accesory

green=diagnostics

yellow=in positive

shield=in negative

two thick yellow=battery power

blacks=earth (I think)

blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)

blue=not shore

the positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You are right with the wiring the blue is the positive to the sub.

You should be able to get an amp that takes speaker level inputs.

Ian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is the Shielded Yellow the signal? What level is it at? I've got a JBL amp looking for a new home :)

I'd rather use low level inputs (unamplified) than using the sub out and chaining two amps (and two sets of THD and distortion!) together.

BK

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Buy a line level converter... I think they are about 20 bucks. Just be careful not to have the level too high or you will blow trannys (from experience)

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  • Member For: 19y 11m 16d
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is that wiring for the amp only in the premium sound cars??

I have a large stereo to go in mine an was wonderin the diameter of the battery power supply cable, the two thick yellow ones?

where can these wires be located, in boot or under seat?

cheers

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  • Member For: 22y 2m 27d
Buy a line level converter... I think they are about 20 bucks. Just be careful not to have the level too high or you will blow trannys (from experience)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Line convertor would be fine, but I'm after quality. Remember the amps amplify everything they get, including noise. Hmmmm. I think I'll complicate things :censored:

Time for some high school algebra:

You're suggestion using a line conv, I.e:

Option 1:

SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> FORD AMP(+noise) ---> LINE CONV --> JBL AMP(+noise) = Sound

Better is my preferred:

Option 2:

SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> JBL AMP(+noise) = Sound

To use numbers, say source is 10 noise is 0.1n, Line conv = 1/40 (noiseless, not quite true, but will do for illustration) and Ford Amp = 40+0.5 noise, JBL amp = 60+0.5 noise (I.e. higher output and lower noise than Ford amp)

We have, in original system:

(40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) = 400 + 4n + 5n + 0.05n^2

= 400 + 9n + 0.05n^2

So signal to noise is 9/400+9 = 2.22% noise (ignoring the n^2) in the ORIGINAL setup with FORD AMP

To vaugely calc noise With option 1:

{ [(40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) ] x 1/40 } x (60+0.5n) = ([400 + 4n +5n + 0.05n^2] / 40) x (60+0.5n)

= (10 + 0.225n + 0.00125n^2) x (60+0.5n)

= 600 + 5n + 13.5n + 0.05625n^2 + 0.075n^2 + 0.000625n^3

= 600 + 18.5n + 0.13126^2 + 0.000625n^3

We have more volume, but more noise, 18.5/618.5 = 2.99% noise now (ignoring the other n^2 and n^3)

And to calc noise With option 2:

(60+0.5n) x (10 + 0.1n) = 600 + 6n + 5n + 0.05n^2

= 600 + 11n + 0.05n^2

Now we have same volume output as option 1, and noise of 11/611 = 1.63% noise (again, ignoring n^2).

To summarise, using my approximations,

ICC sound is 1% noise

Factory Amp output = 2.22% noise

Chained Amps + line conv (even with the lower noise JBL!) = 2.99% noise

My amp from ICC direct = 1.63% noise

Ofcourse this is a simplification, and YMMV. I haven't really done justice to Signal to Noise ratio calculations here, and would horrify audio engineers the world over with my fatally flawed assumption based approach.

Plus it's debatable if you or I could hear 3% noise vs 1.5% noise (esp at sub woofer frequencies, with crossovers rolling of High Freq's in both it's probably nowhere near that bad).

But I hope you can see what I'm getting at, and given the choice I'd rather pull the Ford amp out and connect mine direct. :gooff:

BK

Edited by bkofoed
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  • Member For: 21y 11d

I will post the diagram of the wiring of the whole icc and where every wire goes as soon as I scan it I hope this will help

I also would like to avoid using line out converters

and as for buying one for $20 I would think they would sound any good cause the stinger ones are like $100 that's what I would get

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I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converters

sory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagram

but from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem sound

goes like this

red=accesory

green=diagnostics

yellow=in positive

shield=in negative

two thick yellow=battery power

blacks=earth (I think)

blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)

blue=not shore

the positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is

Where abouts is this Amp?? I am looking to replace it and haven't had a chance to pull all the lining out of the boot

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