Turkey91

No, never had that happen Dave

T Rav I've already ordered a process west intercooler. So I'll have to see how that goes. And yeah the valve springs are standard. I didn't think of that being a bf series 2 but the car has 100k km on it so they could be tired. Is there a way to see if they are tired without physically inspecting them?

Only extremely subtly. You wouldn't notice it in car. Only if you we're standing behind it at idle. You'd notice an extra brup in the pattern every minute or so. I never thought much of it. Is it related?

Hey I've got a bf2 turbo 60 pound injectors No cat And a monza cooler Running at 12psi I live in Darwin so a "cool" night is 24-29 degrees. I go cruising in the car with a group of people most weekends at night. So the usual countless full boost pulls. And roll ons etc. The car runs fine at the start. It's usual characteristics have no traction in first and sometimes is a bit loose through 2nd. That's the start of the night. The monza cooler gets hectic heat soak and after about 4 times hitting full boost I'd be only barely have traction issues. This isn't the issue though. Cos I expect heat soak on the cheap cooler. What happens after awhile of thrashing around the car will miss or hesitate when in boost, back firing and sometimes spitting flame. At this point there is a lot of heat in the engine bay. The cooler is just pushing hot air. And the cold side piping is like a frying pan. My oil temp is usually sitting between 175-190 Fahrenheit. Which isn't a drama I don't think. And water temp never goes above half. Usually sits at a quarter and a bit. If I go for a highway drive and stay off boost. After 15 mins the car will be fine again for a bit. I am guessing its my high intake temps causing the issue. I have a process west stage 2 kit on the way and a retune. I've changed plugs and coils just for the hell of it also. What else could be causing the problem or am I on the right track? When the car starts to show signs of the issue I don't push it until I either have it off for a while or drive normally for a period of time. Any help or advice would be great.

Thanks for the replies guys. The less boost idea was if 13 psi was too much for standard wastegate/actuator. You've answered what I needed. Thanks heaps!

I've searched through these forums for a while now and I think I have the right idea here, but I would like to just make sure I'm on the right track before I spend $$$ atm I have a bf2 turbo with 60 pound injectors hiflow cat Monza cooler 285rwkw 13 psi My understanding is that if I were to buy the rapid v2 kit, and get a retune I in theory should be able to run lower amount of boost (10 psi example) and get the same power, as there was less boost lost in my better cooler/piping? Or run 13psi still and get more power. here's where I go slightly off topic: Does this mean that if I were to sort out my next restriction and go a larger dump pipe BUT keep boost levels below 13pound I should be okay? or am I completely missing something? based on reading that 13 pound is about all you want to be running without turbo actuator/wastegate mods (the whole reason to wanting to lower my boost to about 10 pound but still gaining power from 285, by doing these new mods) Im lost, please halp pics of my car in the mean time?