getuted

so I did some more work on the surge tank this arvo, made some 3/8 NPT weld on fittings for the suction lines for the main pump. these are just temp fitted to check the offset for the braid, I'm still waiting on the 3/8 NPT fittings and the -6 to -6 female unions to join the strainers to the tank. Both -6 lines will go to a -6 to-8 Y fitting then to the pump. question for guys running 044 external pumps, have you had any problems with the factory wiring/ fuel pump relay not being current rated high enough? if so was it just a matter of replacing the wiring and relay with larger units?

I never buy any of the commercially available products for my cars, they are just a rip off, plus Im a hobby machinest and tig welder, more pics soon

The welds will look better once I treat them with pickling acid, stainless is a joy to tig, the only metal I like more is titanium. I looked at the rubber mount option but Im thinking the pump will hit the fuel tank if it is spaced out more plus I can live with the noise, I had an 044 boot mounted in my old car and it was okay, good idea though.

thought I'd throw up a few pics from my afternoon of tinkering, I've got the tray off my ute atm and just finished a warlbro install but I have plans to go a bit further with this car so I thought I'd start with building a reliable fuel system. I've got a few bits left over from my old car and some new stuff so far I've got some some 80 pound siemins, walbro 300 ltr pump which will eventually be a lift pump, 044 main pump, all star 800hp efi filter, dash-8 supply line and dash-6 return, turbosmart fuel reg and a home made billet fuel rail. side view( stainless 3.5 ltr surge tank ) top view ill put some more up once I've finished making the tank and mounting the rest of the hardware. until then ....

hey guys/girls I had a warlbro fuel pump sitting at home for a while and finally got the time to pull the tray off my ba mk2 xr6t ute and install it. I thought while it was off it was a good time to spray some corrosion preventative around. the under tray chassis looked really good until I decided to pull off the straps between the cab and the chassis and spray some behind them. I found this when I did! this is the strap I'm talking about. the back panel of the cabin is wafer thin when new and it wouldn't take long before there was a 2 big holes going straight throughout to the cabin. when I looked closer it has corroded because ford were too lazy/ cheap to pant behind the bracket when spraying the car which meant it left the factory bare metal in an area which gets wet every time it rains. This pissed me off so I thought I'd share the find to help other owners prevent unnecessary rust repairs in the future. I'm lucky that this is only bad surface rust which can be repaired by me but given a few years it would have been a panel shop job $$$ regards glen

dow corning make a dielectric grease. its called dow corning NO.4 it should be reasonably priced and its a 200 gram tube. I use it on my car everytime the coils come off. I got my tube from work so I'm not sure what its worth or where to get it sorry guys but its a good alernative to krytox.

I had the same problem with my car for a while and its caused by a couple of things. The first was the front inner wheel bearings which was hard to detect because they ford don't use tapered wheel bearings anymore so you can't just rock the wheel in and out to see if they are stuffed. I bought 2 new front hubs with the bearings installed from autobarn for around $185. The nut on the stub axle must be torqued to 325 nm. which is Fing tight!!! this fixes the straight line non braking wobble/vibe through the car. the second is to dump the factory front rotors and get some decent DBA replacements. The third is to adjust the clearance on the pin inside the brake booster. this is done by pulling the master cyl off and backing off the the end of the pin coming out of the brake booster. Ford have it set to close to the master cyl and this causes the brakes to drag a little causing high and low spots on any rotor you put under the car and over time the vibs come back. Depending how long you have driven the car with the vibrations you may also need to replace the steering rod ends as the vibs make them wear quicker. I did all of the above and the only thing that pisses me off now is the caliper rattle but the vibs have gone.

I found out what the problem with my flash tuner. after testing the lead with a multimeter is showed no sign of broken wires, so I checked the fuses under the dash and found fuse No. 25 (interior light) blown. (its a 15amp fuse) after changing that the flash tuner works again, I thought that's a strange circut to power the flasher from but then that circut has always got power even when car is turned off. "makes sense now"

hi everyone, I have a ba mk2 ute. I flased it back to stock last week to loan it to my girlfriend, this afternoon I tried several times to flash my custom tune back and my x cal 2 doesn't want to start up/ turn on. just wondering if anyone else has had problems like this and how they fixed the issue.