silverchris

I'll start by getting it regassed as that seems the cheaper option. If that doesn't fix it I guess I'll be looking for someone to help remove the dash..... Thanks to Gussa and Iwannaturbo for your replies.

Perhaps I should also add that the rest of the heater/aircon controls work, ie where the airflow is directed such as the face, feet, etc, and switching from external air source to recirculate appears to be working too, it's just that for the first 20 or so minutes the flow on the passenger's side is warm (or even hot on a 35 degree day).

Thanks Rokkie for your reply. There's no dual zone climate control...it's the standard system

My 2003 BA XR6T has just 96000km on it and has been perfect, except for the 4 replacement diffs under warranty. Until now, its just starting to show some signs of age.....rain leaks into the bootlid through where the spoiler is attached, the driver door window continued to play up despite having a new motor fitted, the aircon is not working properly (new thread created today on xr6 forum setting assistance), and it's going through 98 octance at the rate of 17.7 litres per 100km (does need a service though). Given the poor reports falcons keep getting in respect of quality in particular my old girl if going Ok given she's almost 10.

My 2003 XR6T has developed an aircon issue. About 3 months ago I noticed a thump noise when even I turned the aircon on to the max setting. It seems to be coming from around the front passenger's footwell; it only happened for first time I turned the aircon on after starting the car. Also, over the past few months there has occasionally been a mist coming out of the centre vents, more so from the one on the right; I just thought this might be condensation on very hot days. Now, however, over the past two days (when have been around 35 degrees outside) the aircon has to be on max to get anything cool out of it and even then, for the first 20 minutes there's only cold air from all driver's side vents (including the rear one), there's only hot air from all the passenger vents (including the one on the rear) for that firtst 20 minutes and when it does eventually become cool it's nowhere near as cold as the driver's side vents. Can anyone shine a light on what the issue might be here so I don't get ripped off by a ford service department. In advance, my sincere appreciation for assistance.

OK, I'm not that technically minded, so... what is the symptom of this breakage. I have had three diffs in my T and since the last one was fitted there's been a thump from under the car when I go over a rough surface. I thought it might have been the exhaust hitting the bodywork but I did mention to Ford at a service and they just said that the exhaust is held in place and can't move (that's bull because when it's cold I can hold the tip of the exhaust and move the whole lot , but it doesn't appear to hit the bodywork). If this bolt is either loose or broken does it cause different handling characteristcs, lack of grip, anything else (including thumping). Thanks in advance to anyone offering up answers to what might be a dumb question.

I was out in my 03 XR6T yesterday and it suddenly wouldn't start after being perfectly OK beforehand. Thought I'd done a battery considering it's 5 years old. I was parked near a Kmart so thought "that's OK, I'll just go in a get a new battery rather than call RACV at 5.00 on Friday". Before going to get the battery I thought I'd just check the battery terminals hadn't just come loose or something. WOW, I can't believe what happened next: I moved the positive connector on the battery and it came off in my hand and left a big pile of corrosion around the battery terminal. I brushed it away and went to reconnect the terminal - it's not there!! Inside the rubber cover the whole right hand side of the cable clamp has been eaten away by corrosion. I went into Kmart and got a hose clamp and managed to put it around what is left of the cable clamp and the battery terminal, tightened it and away we went. Probably go like that forever, but I will fix it. I just can't believe that I hadn't had a single indication that there was anything wrong with the cable clamp with it being in such poor condition. I don't believe corrosion will conduct electricity (not well anyway) so I'm just surprised it hadn't cut out before. It's a warning to everyone to check the battery terminals regularly for corrosion buildup...and remove the rubber covers to check before it's too late.

Sept 03 build, purchased used in March 04 with 15K. Will turn over 70K this week sometime. Has had three diffs. Drink holder door rattles like mad, exhaust thumps the bottom of the car even over light undulations and there's an annoying squeak from the rear seat or boot somewhere. It drinks 98RON like there's no tomorrow (av 16.9 l/100k), but it's still a damn exciting drive every day and it will be a long time before I give it up for some petrol saving shoebox that wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

I'll show my age, but my first car was a 1953 Ford Consul. I had it in 1970 but it was like new. Good, simple car to start with. Over the years I think I can remember about 30 other cars, with about a quarter of them being Fords. I've own cars from Datsun, Hillman, Vauxhall, Morris, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Chrysler and probably some other, but I've never owned a Expensive Daewoo after I test drive one and it broke down during the test drive. I'm sticking to Ford, and a Falcon as long as they exist. Local product, great value.

Give the belt a clean but it hasn't fixed the issue. Has anyone got the solution to this problem? It seems to be a(nother) ford affliction

Get Ford to fix it. Not likely. I'm out of warranty and I just know they'll charge me and arm and a leg for a first year apprentice to give it a squirt of WD40 or something. It must be something I can do myself. Can anyone help.

Yes, this has been done in the USA because I've read about it on Mac forums (somewhere). Good luck. Just a minor correction...the video port on Mac Mini is DVI, not VGA. This may make a difference. Mac Mini comes with a DVI to VGA adapter, but the connector on the back of the Mac Mini is DVI. Not sure if it helps. Cheers

And lastly from me........

And more pics

Here's some more pics.Great day, great turnout, great breakfast. Well organised again.

Must be normal. Mine does it after an edut too. Roughy same revs as this, maybe slightly higher to about 2000. Only lasts a couple of seconds then drops back to normal cold start idle of around 800-900.

How about an Apple Macbook. Starts at $1749 and runs Mac OS and all its virus-free goodies as well as Windows (including Vista). Best of both worlds. I sell 'em so PM me if interested. I can do a good deal

I'm all for ditching V8 Supercars because it's too one sided and boring. Bring back production cars, that will match Holden's with Expensive Daewoo engines (not Chev - oh, that's right they don't make a Expensive Daewoo V8) and mechanicals with Fords with Ford engines and mechanicals. Take it back to six cylinder if it has to and allow Chrysler and Toyota and Honda et al to complete. That will be win on Sunday, sell on Monday like to used to be and will be far more interesting.

Perhaps I should mention that because my Mac can also run Windows, I use Norton Anti-Virus in that without any problems at all....other than the cost.

I don't use anything. I don't need anything. I've got a Mac

Gauges look good but, sorry, don't like what appears to black panel and the visible screws holding it all in place. Each to their own. If you like, that's the main thing. I'm sure other will too.

I got clear ones on my sedan and I think they look OK, but I have to agree they don't fit quite as well as the originals. I think they look best at night because of the round stop and tail lights and the way the blinker orange is from behind the the red reflector. A nice sportier look that the XT/Futura/Fairmont standard set. But I have kept my stockers in case I get bored with the clear/silver. As everyone says, individual choice and I like (for now).