turtl3tim

my driveway is on a slope and I reverse up whenever im parking. When ever I drive out, when I start braking on the down slope going forwards, I get one single knock which seems to be on the drivers side, has anyone else had this occur? im thinking that it might be the sway bar or something in the suspension come loose. I can feel the knock through the brake pedal but it doesnt do it on level ground when I start and stop, so im guessing its not the brake itself which is causing the knock. any ideas?

a guy at work told me that the t's loose power with a/m cams for some reason. I dont really see how they could loose power, maybe sacrifice some torque for kw or vice versa...im not too sure really

very true, the extra air flow helps alot aswel, the only problem with turbo timers is that ive been told they can void your insurance if the car gets nicked...but they could only drive it for a few mins at the most if they nicked it...mind u that's all they really need.

lol obviously uve never had a descent prang due to some hoon hitting u, or u hitting someone else whilst hooning...thatll settle u down a bit when u go driving if n when it happens, like a few of the others said, theres a time and a place. its not worth loosing your license and possibly your car aswel, whether it be confiscated, crushed or totaled. hit a track or save up 5g and buy a street stock n get your nasr license n fang around on the dirt oval...good fun. atleast u look after your car though. wot I do is when im close to home I start grannying the car n let that b its kool down, and it keeps every1 else on the surrounding steets happy

if your final target is 750kw, I personally wouldnt mix and match parts, I would get someone like nizpro or capa to do the complete thing just for the warranty side of things incase anything goes wrong. if u wana save money on labour, buy the kit and do it yourself. im pretty sure both companies supply turbos with the 500kw+ kits, but they are expensive kits

although the I6T is awesome, I personally wouldnt mind seeing ford bring out a V6T or even a V6TT, personally a bigger V8 aswel(5.4 just isnt enough), I dont think we can deny that a V engine will always be able to make more power than an I due to the engineering. LOL that or we could go rice like subaru and start dropping HO's in...mmm 6cyl HO...turbo ofcoarse rofl

sounds good buddy. personally I would go 60lb squirts or even 72lb if your planning on big power...normally when u overhaul an engine u replace all the bearings/seals/gaskets and a few other bits and peices and clean everything and stuff like that, even do some crack testing if necessary, but if u wana make big power the next thing to do is get your rods and crank balanced and have the rest blueprinted, deckheights and stuff. im pretty sure the phoon springs are stong enough *correct me if im wrong*. u could even look at doing some head work but from what iv heard the heads are pretty damn good as is. all this is just my opinion, please every1 correct me if im going the wrong way

thanx tab, atleast someone can see where im coming from, because when u switch to tiptronic it still displays d until u actually change a gear manually, and like tab said, compression lock isnt fun. the only reason im eating behind the wheel is because after 14 hours of work the last thing I want to b doing is cook wen I get home

my bad, havnt worked on one of the new fords yet, everything else that I have worked on has had the slave mounted on the side

not too sure about the quick release, but if u take the whole slave off the side of the box u shouldnt need to bleed it provided it all stays together. I would go to coventrys or some place like that and get a clutch alignment tool, theyre cheap and nasty but they can make life alot easier...my personal fave is to find a gearbox (same type) that is completey buggered B.E.R and cut the input shaft off and use that as an alignment tool, these will be alot easier to use than the cheap nasty alignment tools. or if u can find a cheap input shaft that's been preloved, cut that down.

I obviously dont stare at it lol, I just wana add a small custom touch to the car, its one of those tiny things that annoys the crap outa me, im always in tip tronic unless im eating and I glance at the dash to make sure every things all good and then I c the big D of death and coz im used to seeing numbers it just makes me think somethings wrong...maybe I should of just put the extra 4k in and got a manual

has anyone tried to or already have figured out a way to get the dash to display what gear you are in when you are in drive and not tiptronic (bf 2 turbo 6spd auto) I just dont like seeing a big boring 'D' id prefer to see '1,2,3,4,5 and 6' like im in tiptronic, im guessing this isnt as simple as splitting a sensor wire and reconnecting it to the display in place of drive, and that it would have to be done through the computers. and if your wondering y I dont just put it into tiptronic to c the numbers, it because I only ever use drive when im eating.

hate to burst your bubble gt-p but u can buy the 20% under drive pulley kits on ebay for $250 with a belt http://cgi.ebay.com.au/20-UNDERDRIVE-XR6-T...93%3A1|294%3A50 ,for those that didnt quiet understand then concept, its a smaller/lighter pulley that replaces the standard one on the crank, its just one pulley, the ac/alt/water pump pulleys all stay the same, it reduces the resistance on the crank from the accessories with the smaller drive hence the power gain, and it wont affect your cooling enough to make a difference antisocial/ownaxr6t. and whether its a small 2L or a hi-torque 4L its a cheap way to gain <10Kw cobra, it will just be less noticeable on the turbs because it already has a lot more power than a 2L honda/nissan or the standard 4L N/A turbotom/ms700 Sorry 4 chucking names in there, just answering certain queries, not trying 2 make ne1 look like an idiot by singling them out

u can actually buy the spark plug sockets, there are 2 sizes and both are handy to have, but as he said, u need the 5/8, and if your guna buy a normal socket, make sure its a deep one

yep, your right lol *FACEPALM* upon close inspection I found the handbrake cable, I thought it was just hydraulic...its been a long day and im over tired...honestly ashamed to call myself a diesel mechanic haha...and while I was trying figure it out I put the car in neutral and took the handbrake off to see if it would roll or if the problem was still there...it would also help if I took the chocks away wouldn't it *FACEPALM...2* <that's me

yer but I did the lockers up as tight as I could, that was the only other thing I could think of...oh well...looks like they're coming off again unless someone can tell me how to fix it.

ok, so I went and got myself some line lockers 2day for the hol*e*/ford day at the plex, I put them on as tight as I could but the handbrake still seems to be able to work, I could only see 2 lines going to the rear calipers, one (I would assume) is the abs sensor, and the other, the hydraulic brake line. does the handbrake operate on all 4 wheels and is this what I can feel? or are the line lockers just not going to work because the pressures can out power them? Tim

lol solution to getting it off the driveway...dont get it on there in the first place...wait until you get onto the road or someone elses driveway haha...that or a decent pressure cleaner may help some of it...the rest should fade with time

hope this isnt a repost, but before I go and waste time and money having ford do a diagnostic, I just wanna know if anyone else has had problems with the 6spd auto 'slipping' so to speak,im in a bf mk|| turbs and it happens now and again whether im driving nice or giving it a bit, it seems like the converter is having some issues. the car will still gradually gain speed but iv been in 5th gear doing 3500@70kmh(not kool), im able to change gears due to the revs being up there but its nowhere near the speed it should be doing for the revs in whatever gear(mainly 3,4 and 5) it hasnt done it in first or second yet that I have really paid attention to, and I havnt been game enough to put it into sixth. this is just 1 problem. the other is when im taking a corner nice and easy in 3rd, the revs pick up a little more than what they should and then they drop back down 3-4 seconds later by about 500 rpm, and this is when it feels as though it has only just properly engaged, and then it starts picking up again normally in regards to a speed to revs ratio. I know how converters work and ive heard nothing but good about the zf's, just wondering if anyone else has the problem or if its an added bonus with the 31k price tag thanks in advance fellas

hmmm I could understand one broken housing bolt causing it, if it was the only one there lol jj. it sounds more like a diff problem...ive been through my fair share of diffs, tailshafts, gearboxes and clutches (mind you, none of them were rated for the power) and the whining and clunking definately sounds like teeth have gone walking( my car sounded like a train). I would fix the h-brake, replace the bolts and check the plug for teeth at the same time...and if hes been stupid enough to do reverse burnouts I would check the pinion nut(yes...I was stupid one time)lol

im always in tiptronic mode and the car wont change gears until the accelerator gets past the 'step' so to speak which is just before full throttle, u can feel it if u dont stamp on the accelerator, and it will hold the gear until your foot is past the step, then it kicks back a couple of gears and away you go, but being in tiptronic you have to manually change back up the gears. and if your foot is progressively accelerating in auto it shouldnt change gears until u back off gently

yer mate...give technical transmission a ring...they do most of ford and holdens warranty work...and suzuki aswell I think, dont quote me on that one though. iv had some work done by them...pretty spot on aswell, and they will do it cheaper for cash lol...tax dodgers