chalkie

First I'll start by saying that this is a 2006 BF 6 speed man, I have had a very good run with the car until the clutch slave cylinder started to leak at the 69000klm mark. No big problem I thought that I'll get it fixed. Sent it to the mechanic had the job done and all seemed good until I went for a 30min drive and all hell broke loose. Pulled up at a set of lights at about the 20min mark and the noise was terrible. Rattling squeeling the works. Came to a stop foot on clucth in gear and the engine revs dropped to about 400rpm and hunted for a while. Once the revs settled the noise was gone and it did not do it again all trip. Couple a days later the same thing happened, so it only happens when hot foot on clutch in gear and you come to a stop. It also came back from the mechanic with bad rollover in the box which it never had before. The box had never been out before and it was still on factory oil never changed and it has the original clutch, I have had it from new. Once again no issue until the box came out any ideas. Thanks Guys.

As I said in a previous post round speakers are far better than any other combination whether it be 6x9 or 5x7. Round speakers give better sound quality and less distortion, have you ever seen anything but a round speaker in any quality car, home or studio audio setup, NO. Chalkie.

I have just unpluged the original amp. Yes I used the front speaker wires straight out of the head unit to lc6, from there to a 4 channel alpine pdx amp to run front speakers and sub in 3 channel config. It sounds great. Chalkie.

Hi, I tapped into the front speakers behind the kick panels and run then to lc6. I used the lc6 to split the front inputs into front rca's and sub rca's and took them straight to the amp. The lc6 is an active line converter so there is no noise at all and it has the added benifit of an external sub control. I don't have any pics of the box at the moment but when I do I will post them. Chalkie.

I've cracked one of my 18's and I did not hit anything big just a small pot hole at about 80 klicks. Chalkie.

I got my LC6i on ebay from America for $160 dollars plus freight. I think all up it was just under $200. There nearly double that here. Even at double the price it would be money well spent, as there is no noise at all on the system even when you play pink noise on a tuning cd. Chalkie.

I'm assuming that we are talking front and rear rca's. Which one has the niose and how have you gone from line out to rca's (ie line to rca converters, eq or lc6 etc.) To answer your question yes you could use a splitter however it would not sound anywhere near as good and tracking down the noise is not going to be that hard. Try to narrow down to left or right front oe back. Chalkie.

Thanks I have sorted it out, thanks for the help. Chalkie.

Here are some photo's of the dvd player installed. Front side and rear view. Chalkie.

Could someone give me the run down on adding images to a post. Chalkie.

If you have run any wires in the drivers front kick panel you have noise. Is the noise on all speakers or only one. Where is the amp mounted, where are the wires run. There are many things that can cause the niose. It could just be that it has always had it and with the amp it is making it a lot worse. Chalkie.

You should invest in an lc6 with bass control and fit it between the head unit and amp. Wiring the fronts and sub all of the front is the best way to go for many reasons. One, with the rear speaker only running of the deck you would have to splice into the rears to run the sub effectively halving your signal which means you have to turn up your gain giving you more distortion. Two, you will have a far more balanced system it you wire it up as follows. -Head unit front speakers to lc6 which allows you to split the signal into fronts and sub (you can also control rca voltage and stop cliping at the lc6 before it gets to the amp allowing you to turn the gain down on the amp giving better SQ) -Lc6 to amp with rca's (amp must have built in cross-over) -Amp to speakers -Rear speakers from deck Wiring this way will allow you to tune the system properly. Set head unit to rear only, turn volume up until the speaker start to distort and than come back one notch. This gives you the maxium head unit volume. Now set head unit to the fronts (disconnect the rca for the sub at the amp first and turn the gain right down), than turn the volume up to your head unit max and start turning up your gain until your happy. Now turn volume down (disconnect front speaker rca's and refit sub rca's), turn volume back up and adjust the gain. This is a very good starting point now you can adjust the base using the remote sub control from lc6 and play with your coss-over point and you should be right. Chalkie.

The original doom light wiring is tied into the smart lock system. The dvd player uses leds as doom lights which can upset the balnce up the system. You can wire the dvd light up without the relay but then the light will come on with the doors shut when the smart lock system pulses. Use the wire allocated for the alarm for the door switch in the kick panel and run a new wire to the unit and it will all work fine. Chalkie.

Where possible allways fit round speakers as they give the best sound quality. As for fitting the tweeters in the original a pillar spots, you will never get the music centred it will allways be to one side or the other. Mount as far away as possible in the kicks near your feet. Chalkie.

I can take some photos and post them no worries. If you fit one there are a few thing to look out for. Space the mounting plate out about 10mm to allow for curve in roof and also so you have some space to get the skirt fitting right otherwise you will push up the roof lining and it will look sh*t. Also you can't use the original doom light wiring for the dome light in the DVD or will come back on after 40 minutes as a pulse is sent out by the smart lock module. You have to use the alarm wire for the doors in the kick panel for it to work properly. Chalkie.

Just clocked up 17000 with no major issues. Just wish ford custumer service was better.

Just finished my stereo upgrade. Wired lc6i to the factory head unit fronts only, from there to alpine pdx amp and then to 6 inch alpine comp splits and to a 8 inch sub in original spot with a custum fibre glass box under the parcel tray( all fits under the trim) rear speakers are alpine 6 inch running of the deck for fill. All wired up with top quality wire and all connections are soldier not crimped also fitted an alpine roof mounted dvd for the kids and run wiring to the aux jack to get sound through stereo. It might not sond like much but it has good SQ and has good base and volume.

I have had an ongoing brake issue with my BF XR6T. When I reverse out of my drive way sometimes the front brake seem to grab and it can be felt through the steering and brake pedal. It has been back to the local dealer several times only to say it is carrying out a self test and it is nothing to worry about, well to me the brake are pretty important so has anyone else had similar fault or have any ideas. I thought all self tests where carried out on start up not as you were reversing am I wrong. Help.