I’ve recently had a MkII T56 gearbox fitted in replacement of the MkI T5 in my Series 1 XR6T. It was done by Nizpro, but the installed looks and actually is very simple. Here’s the details.

Parts Required: Ford T56 MkII gearbox (Approx $6k), BA XR8 Gearbox Yoke ($190), MkII BA Gearbox Crossmember ($180), a connector to fit to the reverse lock-out solenoid connection.

At the same time I had a Nizpro twin plate organic clutch fitted which easily handles the 360 rwKw / 775 Nm the car is making. The clutch is smooth and light (pedal pressure), lighter than the original clutch and engagement is even across the pedal travel (ie not all out at the bottom, etc). Feel is “as” factory, but it can handle the punishment !!

Install:

1. Pop gear boot cover and undo two bolts on shifter. Remove shifter.

2. Unbolt T5 (engine bolts, tail shaft, cross member). Best to do this on a hoist. Disconnect wires (only reverse lights). Remove T5 reverse switch (needed in conversion).

3. Unbolt clutch / flywheel combo and fit new flywheel / twin plate combo. Don’t forget to torque all bolts and use loctite as appropriate.

4. Disconnect exhaust at the centre muffler flange. This allows the engine to “rock” on the engine mounts a bit and allows easier fitment of the T56.

5. Remove the T56 reverse switch and screw in the T5’s in it’s place.

6. Get you mates to hold and slot the T56 into place and replace the original engine bolts (same as used for the T5). You can prop the engine at the front, to cause the gearbox flange to be tilted down. This makes it easier to slot in the gearbox.

7. Slot in the XR8 gearbox yoke, and fit the MkII cross member (you’ll need a few M6 nuts as it didn’t seem to come with them ?).

8. Bolt on the tail shaft and cross member (bolts directly to MkI location, no new holes to be drilled) using original T5 fasteners.

9. Reconnect the reverse light loom connection.

10. The T56 has a reverse selection lock-out solenoid that needs 12v to prevent accidental selection (as reverse is next to 5th). When reverse is wanted the solenoid needs to be de-powered. You can run a wire from one pin of the solenoid to ground and the other pin to 12v on the brake light switch. ie. to select reverse you need to put your foot on the brake. A good safety feature !! The loom for the MkII is available from Ford, this will get you the connector at the solenoid. Mine is actually done using some ECU pins (pushed over the solenoid connections) and fixed in position with some epoxy. The potentiometer on the brake switch has three connections (?) and you need to get the correct one. I think Dave said it was the bottom connection.

11. The T56 is already filled with Dextron III from the factory, you can change it if you want. I’ve got a bottle of Transmax Z, but I thought I’d run it in a bit first before changing.

12. Reconnect exhaust flanges, and torque all bolts.

If you couldn’t be bother doing it yourself, Nizpro can probably help you out, or any competent mechanic.

Some pics of the install follows.

T5 - old T5 soon to be gone

Twin Plate - layed out for all to see

Twin Plate In - flywheel / twin plate fitted up

OEM Clutch - original clutch, worked Ok but slipped, see the heat marks !!

MkII Crossmember - new MkII crossmember replaces MkI, a bolt in.

T56 - It's in !!!

Robin.

Very nice fit, how does it drive?

Great post Robin, I have been wanting this sort of info for some time, very usefull and great stuff

Turbo4LT,

It drives like a dream (so far !!!) only done about 500km. I do 800km to 1000km a week, so I'll soon find out if there are any dramas. I saw several posts about T56 sticky shifts, etc, but that may be due to the OEM clutch (???), so far that problem hasn't occurred for me.

Robin.

Good work Robin. How long did it take?

Your car has come together very well.

Are you taking it out to Calder for a run?

Brian

Also Robin, I found that you need at least 2 to 3 weeks of driving to really ensure that the clutch settles down OK; especially in relation to both discs engaging and disengaging evenly. I was doing a lot of stop/start traffic changes in Sydney, where 1 week city driving is probably equal to 3-4 of your country driving.

Good to hear it's OK so far, and keep us posted.

Brian

Hi Brian,

I was at Nizpro for the entire day, but it didn't take all that time !!! They were pretty busy, so I helped Dave out with the install !!! I reckon if you got stuck into it, from go to woe, it would take about 2-3 hours. It's all bolt in, except for the minor wiring addition. The rest of the day the car was being dyno run and tuned. I think Simon did about 12-15 runs to ensure I was happy with the timing and AFRs.

I'm not much for the quarter, I much prefer the "twisties", but once your cars going and you go to Calder, let me know and I might tag along ??? Talking with Simon, I believe your car needs an OS Giken triple plate or similar set-up to hold that beast of an engine you've created !!!

Cheers

Robin.

Does anyone know the difference in price on with a T5 to a T56 from Ford?

Any of the ford guys can give us a price?

JB,

The T56 cost me $5940 thru Nizpro. Don't know how much a T5 is worth, but probably isn't much different. I've even heard mention that the T5 is actually more expensive than the T56 (don't know whether that's actually true though).

BTW, Ford have the T56s in stock. Ordered mine in the morning and was delivered in the arvo of the same day !!!

Robin.

Great post Robin, I have been wanting this sort of info for some time, very usefull and great stuff

6 speed is killa ay