XRDRIFT

Pulled the solenoid out, and tried to get reverse, cant. I can push the piston in the solenoid so maybe its an internal issue

Cheers, will try that. Really buggered LOL, hot afternoon plus sore all over, motivation is hard to build up HAHAHAH

Cant engage reverse at all, on or off.

Pushing up, swinging gear lever to the right then up. Starting to give up on this, half tempted to pull it back out and leave it on stands. rego runs out in 2 weeks and really cant be bothered fixing more problems, as far as I know, I've replaced everything from front to back on the car bar wheel bearings. Was hoping that hot wiring power straight from thebattery woul dfix it, but nope. the solenoid does click on and off when I remove the wire off the battery, but as to why it wont let me get reverse is boggling. Would the reverse light switch have any effect. I had to cut the plug off it and put different terminals to it to mate up with the cars loom. Just 2 wires, does it matter if they are crossed?

OK, I've tried to give it power straight from the battery to see if the solenoid will get enough power, and still no go. Im at a loss as to why I cant get reverse now.......I can select 5th and 6th easy and when I try to swing the stick over to the right and try engange the reverse gateway, its seems like its not even there. Or its locked out.

FINALLY!!!! The car is moving, and loving it!!! The 10mm spacer was the culprit but not by any means the guys at MWA or my fault. As I'm running an Xtreme Clutch set up, the amount of travel needed to disengage the clutch might be alot different to what the guys at MWA offer. So the measurements may not apply to the Xtreme CLutch:( But all in all, loving the 6 speed, its abit tight but its expected I've been told and will losen up in the next few days. To throw a spanner in the works though!!! I cant get REVERSE :banghead: I've hooked up the power wire from the reverse lock out solennoid to the bottom brake switch as there 2 switches. Using a test light, I hooked up the power wire to the bottom switch with it connected to the one that powers up when I depress the brake pedal. I can hear the Reverse Lock Out Solenoid click on and off, but cant get reverse. I have all 6 forward gears and they work fine, so Im sure this is something very simple. Once again guys, thank you all for all the advice, and the guys at Mal Wood, legends!! Having spoken to both Paul and Mal on the phone regarding this issue last week to help rectify this and they have been very helpful. Cant thank them enough.

Thanks for that info Paul, I have the box ready to pull out, and will remove the clutch at same time to inspect it. If the clutch is damaged, I guess I will be on the phone again to you guys to get one of your ones:)

Yeah I did, to make sure I didnt damage the master cylinder as it was dry for a couple of weeks, and to slowly get the new CSC working right. But the pedal feels very heavy that because of the new clutch set up I have. Im ust have had air in the lines before which may have caused my crunching issues with tthe T5, and the pedal felt a little spongey with the T5. Didnt have a vacuum bleeder then X( Now it feels realy good:) Like a 1.2 tonne pressure plate should.

Those were my thoughts, I vacuum bled the lines with about 500mls of fluid to make sure all the lines were clean and free of air and any impurites. I just re used the fluid what I need and just filtered the rest. Have to say, vacuum bleeders are the best thing anyone can have when doing brakes and clutches and highly reccommend getting one:)

Cheers for all the feed back guys. I think I may have sorted out the issue. Although I did set the clutch crush depth according the email Mal Wood sent me, I added a 10mm spacer behind the CSC, which the other gearbox, T5, DIDNT have. But it worked fine. I've had the gearbox out a few times (T5) for various reasons like CSC bearing was noisey and rear main was leaking. But never had any issues with clutch. Upon installing the new T56 which we all trust Mal Wood products are great, the addition of the spacer is the only difference between the 2 boxes. And my mate came over today and we did a test. I know I can select gears with car off but not on. And can start car in gear. So with that said, started car in gear, and tried to pullit out fo gear with clutch, no go....as usuall, but put my foot on clutch and out it came:) But in saying that, in neutral with car running, I cant select gears. So my theory is, that spacer has thrown out everything form working right. So I have started to get it ready to pull out, and remove that spacer, afterall, the T56 and T5 Bellhousing to the CSC bearing dimensions are identical as I measured both to make sure my clutch would be fine. Fingers crossed, but I have a good feeling about this:)

Well, did some work this afternoon on it. Was going to pullbox out and send back to Mal Wood to get checked. So I started to remove the box, drained the oil, removed the tailshaft and disconnected the wires for the reverse lockout solenoid and switch. Go inside car, to pull the gear stick out, and WOW could select gears!!! So.....I put everything back. Drop the car on ground, with car OFF, I checked if I could still select gears and COULD. Start car, and dammit, was back to square one, couldnt select gears even when I pressed the clutch pedal. So I did a little test to see what I could do and couldnt. Started car, and whilst in 'neutral' with car running gear selection wasnt happening. Turn car off, put car into 1st, start car in gear WITHOUT pressing the clutch and this is the weird part, car idled, in 1st.....so I have no idea whats up there. To make it clear, the car was running with that clutch and did drive it into the garage. So it was working. Maybe the slave cylinder inside car let go, or theres still air in the lines......alot of it. Im hoping its something simple now as its SOOOO to be a running car again. Cheers Pete

I cant actually select any gears to get it to move forward, wont go into 1st-6th, not even reverse. Its like its stuck in neutral.

I just recently brought a complete T56 conversion kit from Mal Wood few weeks ago along with all the extras...Short Shift kit, braided lines...we all know the stuff:) I just finished putting all the components in, vacuum bled the lines, filled it up with the Transmax Z they supplied, tailshaft was completely overhauled...made sure EVERYTHING was hooked up and tightened....Start car up, revved it a few times and let it warm up, to allow the fluids to get through the gears inside box......And was shocked, cant select gears, neutral feels 'sticky'...I've still retained my 5 speed clutch as its only 3,500ks old, plus have a Chrome Moly F/wheel, 1.2tonne H/D pressure plate, and Double cushioned button clutch. To make it clear, I was VERY careful that I didn't drop or knock the box around. There whole procedure was very easy and went smooth :D As expected with all Mal Wood products. They did send me out a spacer for the CSC as it was needed to get the correct clutch crush depth, pedal feels tight but no gears :( Any ideas? I really don't want to pull it out again as I just spent all weekend assembling it. And very sore LOL All help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Pete

Totally agree with Brian there, I had same issue with my XR6T last year after having the APS Phase kit fitted, few months later the car felt like a nugget, from 362rwks to 138rwks!!!! And it was as simple as a collapsed catalytic converter, 3.5' hole downed to say lasagna....Needless to say that did it. So yeah, it can be a simple thing that just needs time to fix, maybe alot of time, or very little depending what the issue could. Dont be hastey when trying to find big power, only leads to misfortune. Want it done right, I'd be patient.

The block wasnt re used with the crack in it albeit it was a mere hairline crack at that and could have been sleeved, I got a new short motor and rebuilt that. As for the head bolts, Ford did not say to replace once removed, I know with the Toyota 4AGE and 3SGE engines you do. And the Ford repair manual doesnt specify either. As for running the car without coolant, it barely got hot, sump/head and engine barely got heat in it. I spoke with Spiro anyways at Autotech yesterday and even he thinks its very strnge what happened, but he recommended me to get a genuine head gasket and use that. And I went today to Ford and got it, and what do you know, its the correct one!!!! Single layer as well, still different to the original one that was on it but overall its same. Head is coming off tommorow and hopefully problem sorted. But the dual layer head gasket is a stupid idea as water'may' have creeped in between the layers and found their way into the oil journals, its only a hunch, but its the only thing that could have caused it. Head was torqued down right and couldnt have blown as its new. Anyways, thnx for all your info and help guys and when its done I'll let you guys know PS This is the installation technique as per manual which I followed. Installation 1. Ensure all joint surfaces are clean and free of oil and grease. NOTE: A new cylinder head gasket must be used. 2. Lightly lubricate the bolt threads and washer surfaces with engine oil. 3. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown. 4. Rundown all bolts to 30 Nm. 5. Retighten in sequence to 90º. 6. Back off all bolts by approx. 1 turn each. 7. Tighten all bolts to 40Nm in sequence. 8. Rotate bolts 90º ± 5º in the sequence shown.