obi

What is FIST short for & where are they in Brisbane ?

Any other suggestions or recomendations around the Gold Coast or Brisbane ?

Thanks to all for your input, which I appreciate greatly, I shall put the info to good use & at my age there will be no burnouts, just an older codger with a wolf in sheeps clothing to surprise some of these young hoons occasionally.

From what I can gather the 6 speed auto has a transmission cooler.

Thinking about getting an Edit from Chip Torque after the car gets up a few more K's, but would appreciate a few answers from the knowledge ones. If the XR6T puts out the equal or more than the Typhoon after the Edit without any drama's why does the Typhoon get stronger conrods etc & a beefier auto transmission ? Or is there problems to be had down the track with both my engine & auto. ( In saying this with regard also to the 6 speed auto running clutches instead of bands). Thanks in advance.

I took mine down to Bridgestone yesterday to get the whole 4 wheels balanced. (2 weeks old). Shimmy in the front at 110 k's & a defineately out of round or badly balanced one on the rear. All tyres were hopelessly balanced from Ford. There was some runout on one, but reseating resulted in being within the bounderies. For those interested. the anti-theft wheel nut has a differance of 35 grams to the normal nut ( 35 for the lock & 70 other). I put the normal nut back on. While there I happened to mention to the alignment guy that the steering wheel was slightly to the right, he said show where the wheel is sitting. He said to bring it over after the balance & I'll fix it in 2 minutes. He put it up on the hoist, backed off two nuts( I think on the tie rods) made a small turn on it, retightened. The alignment machine was not used. Steering wheel is now in the centre.

I had a 1988 Skyline that did a similar thing after they replaced the diff in it. Turned out to be the tailshaft. When the Tail shaft was put back on the splines did not line up the front & rear Yokes (uni's ) properly, (went through Cardin joint) resulting in a out of balance situation. Re-aligned & no drama's.

If they had the same adjusters as the BA there would be no need for a spanner.

Forget about that "string idea ". I went out last night to line up the high beam against a factory wall & in the dark stood on the piece of string which in turn pulled the spanner from my hand resulting in a piece of paint off the mudguard. F#ck Ford & their bl#@dy light adjusting ideas!

The information I was given ages ago while I was chaseing a water loss on the Landcruiser was that the Turbo can boil the water around it if not allowed to cool down properly. The water loss was found to be a cracked water jacket on the Turbo which was feeding water into the exhaust (after going to the trouble of doing the head up & not fixing the problem). How we found out was to block the water going in & out, run it for a couple of days, but don't spool the Turbo up too much. The problem is still there today & when I get home & go back into the garage after about 1/2 hour you can smell the coolant. The loss is about about 1/8 inch in the overflow bottle each time you use it. Water is cheaper than a new Turbo. The reason beween water cooled & non watercooled Turbo's is that some manufacturers believe that if you crack a housing on the water cooled ones you can feed water into the oil side with catastrophic results for both Turbo & engine.

When I picked mine up a week ago there was two chips on the bumper bar & have just noticed while adjusting the lights very deep scratches on the outside of the D/S headlight. They wanted to get a paint bloke to touch it up, but I have been told that to rectify it properly you would have to repaint the whole bumper assembly as it is 2 Pack. I ended up with the touchup as I couldn't be bothered with all the hassel of probably getting a two tone car & being without a car etc.

I can understand that aspect, but what about if the Turbo is spinning it's head off & there is no oil flow to the unit when the engine has been shut down. Would you not have a Turbo running dry in that situation or at least cooking the residual oil in it.

Schwitzer Turbo's are not water cooled !

Why is there no mention in the Owners Manual of winding down the Turbo on the Falcon after a high speed run, . I recently sold a current model Turbo/ Intercooled Diesel Terracan which had stickers on the door to remind you of the fact & have always wound the Cruiser down after a run. Is this because it is a ball bearing Turbo or other reasons ?

Gotcha ! Could only see two visable pipes on the compressor side & came to that conclusion. I had water overheating problems with my Cruiser due to the fitment of a after market water cooled turbo & ended up fixing the problem by taking the oil cooler off it (diesels have oil galleries in the block for cooling). The oil cooler was in front of the radiator & blocking air flow & after cleaning it was relocated to under the Front Guard & utilized for water cooling to the Turbo by directing the water via it ( also received additional air from engine fan). This additional water cooling & load off the radiator was enough to solve my overheating problems. Offen get asked about it & you can definately feel the difference in heat from the inlet side to the outlet. I would imagine it has kept the Turbo at a much more realistic temp on a hot day in QLD.

There was statement in Quote " Five blown Turbo's" that said the Turbo fitted to the XR6T is water cooled. I can't seem to see any inlet & outlet pipe for water cooling. I have a Garrett T3 Turbo on my Land Cruiser that is water cooled & the it has 2 oil & 2 water. Is the Falcon water cooled ?

Finally got onto a Workshop Foreman that apart from not knowing that you needed a device to turn the adjusting screw, was nice enough to go & have a look. ( 2 other Dealer Foreman had no knowledge about it). It was finally worked out that a 7/16 Hex Spanner was needed, as a socket will not fit in the area. The H/L Beam will adjust vertically (anti-clock is up) & the H/Beam only adjusts L to R & I only found this out after buggering my adjustment up. A piece of advice " tie a piece of string to your spanner because if you drop it & it goes down into the tray you will find out how big a b*stard of a job it is to find & get out". Will now have to go out tonight to realigne the H/Beam.

Adrian6t, Can you turn the ADJUSTING knob by hand on the new one or is it too hard ?

Yeh ! there are two, one behind each light on a steel shaft with a very small plastic serrated knob that will not turn by hand. Appears that there might be some sort of a larger wheel that would slide on to it to give a larger fulcrum in order to turn it.

Is there a special tool to adjust the light's as I can't seem to be able to turn the adjusting screws in order to do so. They are as tight as all hell & won't budge, so there is obviously a method of doing it. Anyone know the secret, apart from a pair of pliers ?

In regard to your clunking in the rear end. I had this problem in my BA XR8 & it was the exhaust hitting the rear suspension on mainly left hand corners. The problem was never fixed up to the time of getting rid of the car. Steering wise it always had some sort of shimmy even from new which was put down to tyres being out of round. I will be taking great interest in checking my car for some of your complaints on quality when I pick mine up. It's appears that Ford quality control is still RS.

Big AL, Sunshine Ford this time, previous last 3 Ford's from Surfside at Tweed. They sold out to Grand Motors. When I tried to get a Quote from them this time I was treated like a piece of sh-t, so went else where. Had more to do with a certain individual, who has now resigned & I believe is about to take up residence with Bruce Lyntton used cars. Do any good with that Quote ! Shane.

Ended up ringing up Ford (not dealership) & their recomendation for the Turbo is as you say 95 octane for best economy, but 91 can also be used. It is also OK by them to use the 95 octane Ethanol Blend without adverse problems with the engine.

Thanks Bionic, Drove past a Petrol station today on the Gold Coast & noticed their selling a ethanol blend for less than the price of ULP with a octane rating of 95 is this suitable for the Turbo or is it against Ford's recommendations !

Howdy All, Previously owned a BA XR8 & taking delivery shortly of the above. Can any one tell me if there is a noticeable differance in performance & economy for the Turbo between ULP & Premium petrol. Only ever used ULP in the XR8 thus the question.Thanks in advance.