Evil XR6T

Cheers for the replies guys !!! I been working too much so I haven't been able to check up on the convo. My motor is good for 500kw's safely, not sure if I'll push much past that. I'm happy with 410kw atm, but if the stock zf blows, I'll get a tough rebuild and good for the full 500kw. The more I drive it, the better performance I'm getting out of it. I think with some super sticky tyres and something to help the leafs from twisting and I'll be ok. I looked at the Mac bros setup, but can't justify the money just yet. A lot of it is coming down to throttle control.

Temperature isn't really an issue for me, I live in Townsville. Only get one day that's cold a year, and it'd be lucky if it under 10 degrees. I've learnt to ease on the throttle. Doesn't help my current tyres are crap. Keen to try traction bars and see how it goes. Also thinking tyres with a bit more side wall and lower pressure.

Lol !!! I was thinking something a bit more street legal then drag slicks. What shocks do most people use?

Lol !!! I was thinking something a bit more street legal then drag slicks. What shocks do most people use?

Hey guys, Been a while since I've posted, but having a bit of trouble trying to figure out how to get traction in the BF XR6 turbo ute I just bought. My sedan was as simple as a good set of tyres, but that along won't cut it in the ute. Now before someone says "it's a ute, don't expect traction" I think with all the knowledge on here, we can figure something out. The obvious is to spend 5 grand on a bolt/weld in 4 link. However, we all know money doesn't grow on trees. My thoughts were a good set of semi-slicks for a start. Then I was going to remove a few leaf segments to lower the spring rate and hopefully get more weight over the rear tyres without the use of cement bags !!! This will render the idea of a "ute" pointless, I know. Eventually I will be putting air assist in, just trying anything at this point in time. I'm pushing sh*t up hill cause it's got 410kw and an auto. Anyway, any help would be appreciated !!!

I'll probably order the fronts in about a month when I get back from holidays. I was gonna get the +20 9.5's which should be quite flush up front. I'll probably run a 235 or 245 tyre to try and get a bit of stretch. I've found that the steering is a lot more responsive with a stretched tyre. I really like the colour and style of rim cause I love the whole 'jap' look. For once the missus is pushing for me to buy new wheels cause she loves them too !!!

I haven't got them on the front yet. Gonna have to get 18x9.5 +20 so they fit with the suspension and maybe a 235/40 so they get in the guards. The tyres on the rear are 265/35's. Helping a lot more with the whole 'can't get traction' thing, lol.

As promised, here's the photos !!!

Yeah, I'm going +22 or +20 9.5's for around town with a bit of stretch cause Its actually set up for drift not drag, but I'm just trying to smoke my mates WRX, so I need a bit of help with traction, lol. I just ordered a set of rota Torque R in 18x9.5 +30 offset. Keen to give it a shot !!! I'll put some photo's up next week when they get here.

18 x 10 35+ and 18 x 10 + 20 Gonna have to suck it up and get the +35 18 x 9.5's I think

Fair enough. Thinking I may just have to suck it up and get the 9.5's just incase. Ordering off the net, so no refunds unfortunately !!! Cheers mate !!!

*sedan with guards rolled too

Hey guys, Trying hard to sift through all the threads to find an answer, so I'm hoping someone will be able to help me quicker. Basically I'm after a wide as possible rim as I can get. Plans are to to have the rim flush with the rear guard and 265 tyres (tiny bit of stretch). I currently have 17x9 +15 on the rear. I've been using the 1010tyres offset calculated and pretty much got most of it figured out, but what I'm worried about is one of the bolts on the lower control arm. Not sure if I'll get an 18x10 in. If anyone has done this, can they please let me know what offsets work and pics if possible !!! Promise to post pics when I get it figured out and the new rims !!!

So we figured it out after a few runs on the dyno. The speedo problem was due to a fault rear ABS sensor, which he has bypassed until we get the parts. Now the speedo works perfectly. The 4000rpm cut out problem was caused by a safety feature my tuner put in the tune. Basically it was a safety cutout if boost got above a certain PSI, ensuring a bit of safety for my weak BA block. It was cutting out because my boost solinoid was faulty and wanst opening my waste gate, therefore, FULL BOOST !!! I must admit, when he took the PSI cutout off, it pulled a 372rwkw run. After fiddling with the tune trying to get the boost solinoid responding again (and alot of WD40) it pulled 377rwkw at 4500rpm before he lifted off.... Very glad to see the potential, but sad I have to wait till I get a new motor to play with it. Needless to say, just waiting on a new boost solinoid and then a safe tune, lol.

Had another chat to my tuner the other day and its $5050 for a ford 'HP' short block, which is aparently the strongest one they make out of the factory or something. Aparently it has the stronger oil pump, stronger gudgin pins and a few other buff bits.

That's a good price for a long motor, drive in drive out, considering dealer prices. As long as you're happy with it aye mate !!!

I agree as well. I was off my P's for 2 and half years before my tune. Stock is great to get used to turbo cars, and plenty of balls to have fun with !!!

Holy crap !!! Definitely don't wanna pay that much unless it's good for some real big numbers. Not sure about the spool rods aye. They build and tune the motors themselves. They very very smart with their cars, so I'd be surprised if it was a fault caused by them. It threw the rod down at powercruise 43. Not a great time for it to go !!!

Hey mate, I just got my BA all modded up and it feels great. I agree with the other boys in saying do the supporting mods first. I did them first and it saved my car in the long run. I did turbo oil line/filter replacement and valve springs before anything else. I was unaware that my oil filter was clogged and had begun to damage my turbo, just got lucky with that one. And as for the valve springs, I noticed a difference in the high end of RPM even at stock tune. Just feels alot stronger. Now its got all the bells and whistles and made 363rwkw without any drama, but "safe tuned" at 308rwkw because of the weak bottem end in the BA models. My opinion, I've been of my P's for a few years now, and the first thing we want is all the noisey stuff, so intercooler, air intake and middle muffler delete ticks all the right boxes and with a tune, gets you good power while keeping it safe. Have fun !!!

lol, moneys not the problem, just dont wanna dip into the house savings. trying to find something reliable and can handle 400rwkw+. I had a look at spool's website, just need someone to put it all together. Thinking the F6 short is the way to go. Just had a mates "spool" rods snap in his VL, so they're a bit iffy with me at the moment. Told it was good for 600rwkw and he was pushing just under 500rwkw when they went.

I may need to change my pants after seeing that pic... I want one !!! I might make a phone call then and inquire about the F6 motor. Still keen to hear about peoples builds and ideas. Keep'em coming !!!

5500 is the motor and to get it up here. Where is this 'bayford'? Honestly, I haven't done any research yet cause I'm still saving, but I wanna get a feel for what everyone else does.

Heys guys, I got the weak 'BA' bottom end and I'll be doing an enginhe swap within the next 6-12 months. I got told that my tuner could get a FG XR6T short block for $5500. I wanted to get one built for that price, but a bit stronger, unfortunately there's not alot of great engine builders here in Townsville. I'm only pushing for just over 400rwkw, so its over kill, but I know I'll always want more. Basically, I'd like to get this topic going to gather everyones experiences with their swaps/builds ect. So if you got any tips/hints/advice or stories, please feel free to share !!! Cheers !!!

And Sorry, dunno what the plugs are gapped at.

Yeah, spark plugs gapped and factory coils (as far as I know). Displays P0500 code - vehicle speed sensor A