Power Jet

they are good year ss Drag race. 275/40/r17. I'm in Point Cook Melbourne. If ayone wants sms me and I can send a picture of them

Hey Guys, I know this isn't the right area for it but I am sick of advertising in classifieds with nothing. I have a set of 275 R17 semi slicks on steel rims, Looking to get rid of them.. Any offers I dont care.. 0488755534 (SMS only please)

good luck mate

Hey Mate, Don't mean to be the bearer of any news but that sounds exactly what happened to my car about 3 months ago. I had exactly the same symptoms and came accross that I had split the block between 1 & 2 cylinder. I thought it was injectors, head gasket, fuel, spark plugs, coils, electrics and leads. But after all that I had the engine pulled apart and about a 6cm crack (length) going down the bore. It had managed to get oil in with the water which gives the blown head gasket scenario. Be careful with your Turbo. Once you get oil and water mixed and it goes through the lines to the turbo to cool it, the water evaporates in the hot turbo and fries the bearing in the turbo. That's what happened to me :( new turbo, new block. Nasty stuff. Sorry for the bad news I hope it's not that. Give me a PM and I can ring you and discuss more if you want

guys that's the depressing part :( I already built the motor in Feb just gone. Mahle pistons, atomic rods, port and polished head, oil gears. So instead of changing oil every 5000km, I do it differently and change a ENGINE EVERY 5000KM. *cries*.

haha. I shouldn't laugh guys but found the problem today. Nice crack in cylinder 1. New block and start again. Could a crack in the cylinder bore cause the water to go into the oil :(

don't get me wrong I appreciate your help. I told him and assumed a head gasket due to milkshake oil. after pulling the head off it was fine. He couldn't find what the problem was. He seemed to think maybe a cracked head or warped head but seriously? The car was low on water at some point due to a leaky cap. ended up frying the turbo and was missing/backfire before hand :S. Now this? I am trying to get some ideas so I can help diagnose the problem when I see him tomorrow

plugs were all good. Only reason it was pulled apart was because I was sure it was a head gasket..... cries... lol help

hey, kinda not gonna help at the moment with the engine out and apart. any other suggestions

I'm not sure, All I know is the engine is out of the car and apart and everything looks good? Dunno if that helps

Hey Guys, Before I curse and break stuff I would like to explain my issue. Over the past month I have had my coolant running low where I have had to top it up every 2 days or so. Got a pressure test done on the system and it ended up being the reservoir cap seal gone. Replaced. Went for a drive a couple of days later and the car was running rough! Changed the plugs, coils & injectors. Still rough. Worked out that cylinder 1 was not firing properly argh. Ended up blowing up the turbo :S $900 later for a 10k old turbo. Took the car out to my tuner for fear of blown head gasket! Rang him today and was told the head gasket was fine, there didn't seem to be cracks in cylinder 1 or the block at all. Please help what would be causing this? I dun get it PLEASE HELP

Hey guys had a grinding noise when I rocked up home yesterday. Pulled off the front left (where it was coming from) and sure enough the pad was worn down to the metal and made a mess of the rotors. Went down got new rotors and pads. $$$. Fitted it all at home and things seemed good until my son pressed the brake pedal with the calliper off. One of the pistons popped out but not completely and a bit of brake fluid leaked with it (left side). I ended up pushing the piston back in no dramas. Or is it? Now when I am turning right and under brake (like a u turn) there is a slight metal grinding sound. Like running a sharp nail down a black board, only coming from that left side. Any ideas? Brakes feel fine but that squeek is really REALLY annoying. Could if be the piston is cactus and needs to be repaired after popping 7/8ths out or could it be something else that is causing the squeeking? P.s. It only happens when I'm braking and turning right!

I was afraid you were going to say that...... I don't see how a exhaust leak can cause a ticking?

plugs I am using are BCPR6ES (NGK). It is a rather loud ticking sound. Is there an easy way to check the bolts for tightness? The top ones are easy but the bottom. hmmmm. How do I tell if it is intake ping or exhaust?

hey, from what I saw on the dyno the car was running just a tad rich. Nothing dramatic but just a bit. lol. How would an exhaust leak cause that ticking? And guess what.... backfire is back tonight. I dun get it. Exhaust aint that old. New plugs, coils ARRRRGGHHH

yeah, done all that guys and still nothing. Is it worth going to another tuner? I am running BP 98 and that is what it is tuned with. I did run United 100 for a while but that was during the back firing stage. Am getting sick of it. lol. any other ideas

quick one for everyone, Had a problem with pinging and back firing a little while ago. Changed my plugs (NGK BCPR6ES), changed my coils and I thought I was ready to go. After going for a drive today it seems to be detonating a bit like a really loud tick, tick, tick tick until I back off. I had it up on the dyno before I changed my plugs and coils and of course at that time there was no back fire or anythings :|, of course until I got home! Could it possibly be that the tune in the car is used to the old plugs and coils that may have been runnings at 90% and now that they are all working 100% it is not right causing detonation? I am banging my head something shocking as I can't find what the problem is. It wouldn't be the fuel filter would it? even though the surge tank is after the filter? I will list my mods below if anyone can help... PLEASE Forged rods (H Beam) Mahle Pistons Billet oil pump (re-built bottom end) Valve springs 80lb Injectors Flapper mod and actuator Surge tank XForce 3.5" twin dump into 3.5" system Rapid V2.0 Kit, Earl turbo oil filter 381rwkw. I think that's it if I can remember HELP!!!

got an aftermarket BOV? might need adjusting. Check your vacuum hose is on correctly

Hi, some thoughts for you. I have had a problem with my coils the last week. When I was giving it half a boot the car would backfire and I would get the ticking ping. Clearly post-detonation. When the coils are not working properly and when I say not working properly it could be 1 is only working at 90% it does not send enough current? through to the spark plug and does not ignite the air/fuel mix completely. This only happens for a split second before the rest of the mixture detonates in the cylinder, hence causing your stutter. Is your stutter backfire? You should be able to hear it pretty bad. I replaced my coils on Tuesday just gone and man... what a difference, now I can use all my 381rwkw. Another thing to check would be your fuel pump? And to answer your last question the reason it doesn't do it with the air-con on is that the air-con drains power out of the engine hence dropping your power and slowing things down a tad. Things to check/change for piece of mind. -Check for fouled spark plugs. the NGK bcpr6es is pre-gapped to 0.8mm (perfomance application) this would be a good replacement, I picked them up at super cheap for $4.50 each. -Check to make sure that your fuel pump is not getting lazy. What pump is it? -Change your coils. I bought a set of ebay a year ago for $165. But have put the genuines back in now. P.M me if you want anymore info as when this happened to me it did my head in for a week Marty

Hey guys, Have some noisy lifters at the moment and have been like it for a little while. I have tried different oils and what not to quiet them down with no luck. My question is are they easy to replace them for a DIY or what is the process involved marty

Hey guys, Currently if I am pushing more than half throttle I have the problem of back firing and the engine missing. Only happens as boost comes on obviously. I have changed the plugs (which I had to re-gap to 0. and the coils. What else could it possible be that is causing this? Oh yeah and I have changed the fuel filter. Below I have the mods I have it that helps: Rapid V2.0 cooler, piping and intake Injectors Valve springs forged internals surge tank XForce 3.5 split dump into 3.5" system Wastegate ported and actuator Running about 385rwkw but cant at the moment :( help would be great

hey. Yeah after some more testing today before it rained. It only seems to be when Im cornering or turning right. A bit strange I got a stick under the car and gave the exhaust a nudge but there didn't seem to be any movement.. Im stumped?!

Hey guys, Have a current problem when going through round abouts, around corners and turning when accelerating. There seems to be a knock that comes from the rear of the car on and off really quickly but is fine when I am driving straight. I have recently had my back end bushes replaced. Any ideas what it could be? suspension coil? Shocks? front bushes? Anything would be great, I am sick of having to leave the car at a mechanics for days to get stuff sorted Marty

Hi Peeps, just throwing it out there. If you were to pickup a block and head from a wreckers or Ebay or anywhere. Would it be possible to rebuild it yourself with no previos experience. That is, if you were to buy engine building books and of course send the components off that nee to be machined etc?

Hey guys, Have just purchased a turbosmart boost gauge. I think I made a bit of a mess because that's the only gauge they make. I have a twin gauge mount. What would be the best gauge to get that would look closest to the turbosmart gauge but as oil temp