Ricky N

The nuts come loose because of the constant expansion and contraction of the studs, nuts, manifold and turbo caused by the huge temperature changes from cold to hot and back and forward and so on.......... The studs and nuts soften, stretch and move. You could try to source Ti squash nuts. Unlike normal squash nuts that lose their spring after a few times getting hot. Ti is less likely to soften with the temperature and will retain its spring better locking onto the studs. Make sure the studs are locked so they don’t come loose and you will still need to re-torque the nuts occasionally if the studs are stretching.

That is a Chinese turbo. The comp cover is a dead giveaway. The genuine Garrett journal bearing Turbo with the same wheels specs as a TO4Z is called a TO4R. Shop around you can buy those Chinese TO4R’s for around $400 locally. They are a bit of a lucky dip turbo. Some work great. Some fall apart real quick.

Nothing. That’s kind of what the Billet ETT turbos are. The problem is the rpm the GT Ball Bearing turbines and the BorgWarner ETT compressors work at. The ETT compressor wheels generally operate at much lower shaft speeds so can be easily mismatched if you are only looking at compressor efficiency not being conscious of the shaft speed they operate at.

LOL! They are combos I came up with while working there. They are ETT Borg comp wheels on Their Turbines and in their housings. I would like to have a play with a complete ETT BorgWarner turbo.

Just out of curiosity what turbo shop did you take it to that told you it was within tolerances?

I have had a play with a few Borgwarner ETT comp wheels and they are defiantly different in design then most other comp wheels. I still have a few of them sitting out at my old work. As a theoretical look at the compressor maps they have lower surge limit’s and are more efficient at higher pressure rations. They also have quite large turbines for the size of the compressor. They operate at much slower shaft speeds than the GT ball bearing stuff. This and the low surge limit is why they can have bigger turbines and not be supper laggy. Still I think a lot of the hype we have been hearing over the last 4 years is just that. Hype! I am a fan off the BorgWarner ETT turbos but they are not for every application. They are better suited to higher boost levels. For this they are great because they are very efficient at high pressure ratios. Where a GT3076R will start producing a lot of compressor heat at 25+psi, an ETT S200 will continue to produce efficient boost and make lots more power up to 40+psi. (In a nut shell, you can run more boost without detonation) For this I think they are great. You can have a smaller ETT turbo, run higher boost levels and make the same power as a larger conventional turbo restricted to lower boost levels. This gives you a much wider power curve (More useable power). It also means you may not have to rev your engine as hard. Revs kill engines. Not boost (As long as an engine is tuned well and not detonating) High boost will do far less damage than high revs. I am not buying into the hype that they spool quicker than other ball bearing turbos available. Boost for boost up to around 20psi give or take depending on the models being compared I believe the ball bearing options will boost faster. At high pressure ratios the most of the current BB turbos will still start to spool earlier but the BorgWarner ETT turbos will reach FULL boost faster due to them being more efficient at high pressure ratios. When reading the stuff on the net have a look at what boost levels they are running when comparing the turbos. I did see a very good back to back comparison recently of GT3076R vs ETT S200. Here's the link: Turbo shootout results: BW S256 vs GT3076R - Honda-Tech Basically the GT3076R spooled faster at lower boost levels. On the Turbo Falcon engines ask yourself how much boost you are going to run. If it is less than 20psi there is probably a Ball Bearing Turbo available that is better suited to your application. Ps: I'd love to convert a ETT BorgWarner turbo into a ball bearing turbo to see how it goes

Not sure we are on the same page? The adaptor plate I am talking about goes in-between the exhaust housing and the turbo core for this conversion. I may have it wrong but I think the adaptor you have is between the exhaust housing and the manifold?

Yeah sure but that wasn’t what the example was for. It was to show the turbo can and does work well in that housing. The 1.06 A/R GT35R housing is around the equivalent of an open .84 T04 Housing when used on a T04Z. If you are looking for comparable examples on Falcon’s see how the guys that are running T04Z’s with .84 housings are performing. Don’t forget to take into account that they are probably running a better exhaust manifold then the factory item. More to the point, what I am saying here is a complete T04Z turbo in the factory Ford exhaust housing is a better and less restrictive option than the T04Z compressor wheel high flow on the factory Ford turbo. This conversion is not limited to the T04Z either. A Turbonetics GT-K 650 or PT 6765 could be fitted by doing the same process.

I didn't look on their website but I know they sell them.

Your turbo is a Garrett GT3582R core with Ford housings.

LOL, Bloody Garrett likes to try and confuse us. In the early days they were called GT35R's. Then later they became GT3540R's. After that they became GT3582R's. All the same turbo just has had a few name changers over the years. Up until the FG the BA & BF had GT3582R cores with ford housings. The compressor cover is a .50 A/R T04E. The exhaust housing is almost identical to the Garrett but has Ford on it and is cast in cast iron. The Garrett is cast in NiResist. There is a slight change in the wastegate divider area as well. The Garrett comes all the way out with area for a flange to clamp against. The ford housing is slightly recessed. The FG F6s have the same turbo as above. The standard FG Turbo models have an odd ball turbo. It has the same bearing housing, Turbine, compressor cover and exhaust housing as above but has an old school T04B / T04S compressor wheel. It is from the same casting as the old 60-1 but is trimmed right down. Something that is even more odd is it appears to be the same trim and casting as used in the GT2540R / GT2876R. There are far better performance based turbo options/combinations available so I am not sure why Garrett and Ford have done this. All I can come up with is cost and trying to keep shaft speeds down for turbo longevity??? (The old T04S compressor wheel used in the FG turbo operates at slower shaft speeds) ????????????????????????????????????????????? The standard Garrett GT3582R has a .70 T04S compressor cover.

What was that banging noise when you were playing with it with your fingers? Was it in the back ground or was it happening when you pushed and pulled on the compressor wheel? By the sounds of it and the amount of play looks like it has collapsed bearings but I am not going to even try to give an exact diagnosis over the internet. Best get it into a turbo shop for a look.

Garrett BB turbos use angular contact ball bearings to take up thrust loads so they don't have thrust bearing/washer's like journal bearing T04 T03 turbos.

I have done something similar years ago on a 32GTR. Upgraded from a GT3582R to a Billet Z-P which is pretty much exactly the same as a T04Z except the Z-P has a cropped Turbine so flows slightly more. The T04Z/Z-P was put into the 1.06 A/R Garrett GT35R exhaust housing. The T04Z/Z-P on a very lightly modified RB26 made a bit over 500hp at all four wheels on 20 odd psi. The power is not huge but is respectable. More important was the power curve. Here is a dyno from AutoSalon: I have had the shaft on a cropped P trim turbine reground and put into a GT35R bearing housing with a T04Z compressor wheel so to be a total bolt on T04Z but the car has not been tuned yet so don't know how the turbo is going to cope when lent on. It has been daily driven for about a 10 months though and is still going strong so fingers crossed. Putting a T04Z core into the XR6 housings is going to be a much cheaper option than what I have done above.