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Stalling on idle when at operating temp


Marto48

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  • Member For: 1y 5m 8d

Gday everyone, just had the motor out of my G6ET to put new oil pump gears, valve springs, head studs and a few other goodies in, put everything back together and started up and was completely fine, drove the car home from the workshop and it stalled out as I pulled into my driveway. Car was at operating temperature and just stalled and wouldn’t start without giving it a bit of accelerator. Started back up but would not idle at all. Any ideas what this could be? Just tried it again today after letting it cool down overnight, same story. Started and idled at around 640rpm, got to operating temperature, stayed there for around 10 minutes then just stalled out and wouldn’t start again without throttle. Fingers crossed someone’s come across this previously and knows how to fix. Cheers!!

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 1m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

For everyone's info...

 

A tune problem with the idle can be sorted out in the driveway. You log idle air error and adjust the idle airflow increments accordingly to match the requested rpm. This is done in park and drive with aircon on and off. No dyno is needed for idle tuning. Further info is available on the PCMTec forum.

 

Back to the thread commentary, if the issue wasn't present before the listed mods, it isn't tune related. Perhaps the rest of the mods should be listed to give a more complete picture :)

 

Also never rule out stupid bullsh*t and assume anything lol :roflmbo:

Edited by Puffwagon
Stupid autocorrect
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  • Member For: 1y 5m 8d

Gday, hasn’t had a tune yet, but is booked in, I only idled the car home pretty well without getting on boost. The tuner recons it could be the oils thinning out at operating temp. I’m running the oil that they have recommended (Penrite 10w50 full synthetic). He also recons that none of the mods I’ve done should be affecting the idle at all. Here’s a list of the mods I’ve done to it:

  • Flex plate bolt retainer
  • Pulsar 3584 gen 3 turbo
  • Yella terra billet flexplate
  • Boundary oil pump gears
  • Boundary oil pump backing plate 
  • ARP head studs 
  • Crow cams race valve springs 
  • Bosch 1250cc injectors (injectors aren’t installed currently)
  • Walbro 460 fuel pump (pump not installed currently)
  • Turbo side intake 
  • Throttle body elbow upgrade
  • Stage 2 intercooler kit
  • 4” turbo back exhaust
  • Genuine ford timing chain tensioner
  • Atomic timing chain kit
  • External wastegate with screamer

I asked about the 4” exhaust possibly being an issue due to back pressure but was told it wouldn’t be that. Cheers!

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 15y 11m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

yes, your 4" exhaust could cause your problems without a tune, so that's probably it... replacing the catalytic converter almost always requires a tune. cat-back exhaust is ok, dump sometimes OK by itself but if you change the cat, it's tune time.

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 1m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

I wouldn't worry too much about it man, the tuner will be able to log everything and tell you exactly why it's stalling.

 

Just gotta wait until a scanner or laptop is connected to see exactly what happens at the time it stalls.

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