FG front cover oil leak

[hjtrbo]

@Tom Tucker if you indeed wanted to come across to the GM side you'd indeed find alot resources and forums to get your tune on point. The falcon family unfortunately for some odd reason is mostly a closed shop. 

Haltech been awesome with real time tuning and a dyno that can do steady state you'd have any combo of falcon sorted pretty quick, then translate those changes back into the OEM pcm with pcmtec and tuner lock it up. 

Should start my own thung just to piss off the old guard. 

[bjc]

Any updates @hjtrbo?

I've not built a barra but I reckon stick with the stock cams, they'll last way long enough imo. The only things I'd be worried about are the fuel pump (won't do 500 on E85) 1000cc injectors (unsure unless your fuel pressure is high af) and turbo definitely won't if it's a GT3582. 

 

Go a Ti 525 (walbro) or the new Bosch even for the fuel pump, if injectors won't then sell them and the pump and buy way bigger as you're going to be there in the end anyway as resistance is futile... Turbo go a Pulsar 35 1050, GTX3584RS or bigger. ZF mods is up to you but axles I wouldn't bother unless you drag race, same for tailshaft. If you only use street tyres then they are the weak link that keeps the rest alive unless of course you shift wrong etc.... 

You play you pay! 

[hjtrbo]

Hey @bjc

 

There sure has been a bit of work in the background. 

 

I pulled out the bottom end. That has seen better days so is off getting machined. Have ordered Nitto rods with CP Pistons +0.5mm, ACL bearings, full ARP. I got in touch with Pulsar and they are happy to take my 3582 CHRA back and credit it towards the GTX3584RS as I haven't taken it out of it's packing. There is a small restocking fee for them to accept back for a credit. Hoping to have that turn up shortly.

 

Have being watching countless Barra build videos and have been talking with a GC. I've got the confidence to have a crack at the assembly myself. Powerhouse is doing all the machining and specialist assembly, but ring gaps and the glory work I'll do myself in the shed at home. 

 

Yes, have ordered the stock cams. I rarely turn the motor over past 6,000 so don't see the need for high flow cams. Keeping it simple there as I'm still learning to tune and don't want to many new variables to deal with and complicate things. Which is also the same reason why I'm leaving the fuel system alone for now. I've run some numbers and listened to comments and am definitely short on fuel. I'm wiring in a fuel pressure sensor so I'll load her up to as far as I can with stable pressure then when it starts to fall over I'll take 5% off the tune. Anyway, won't be getting out of the 400's with the fuel system so that will do for now. Just taking a guess I'll be at 21psi and 17deg of timing at 0.82 lambda and a little more overlap up top and end with something around the 460rwkw mark? Hoping to keep closed loop boost control so that may be a challenge as I'm not sure what the pulsar port job is like. After everything has settled in I'll save up for a Walbro 525, or a twin staged setup with a 450 and a 255 on a hobbs switch, FPR1200, IDX1300's (love good injector data) and a fuel rail. 4 bar base pressure, boost referenced.

 

Once fuel is sorted the limiting factors will be the desire to keep the factory air intake cross over, 265 Michelins PS4's on the OEM snowflake 8" rims and in terms of things that will break still running the stock Ute drive train. 

 

Thanks for your comments. I'm doing everything you said pretty much lol. 

Edited 06/08/22 12:32 PM by hjtrbo
Nightshifts, argh

[Puffwagon]

4 minutes ago, hjtrbo said:

I'm not sure what the pulsar port job is like

 

Last I checked it is a right angle out of the housing. You can give it a nice radius into the port with a drill and some carbide burs, it makes a world of difference.

[hjtrbo]

I have time and a carbide bur. Lets see if I can not nick the face when the bur grabs 🤭

 

Also have a small milling machine if that will make it easier?

[Puffwagon]

You only have to touch up aka grind the fark out of the inside of the port. You can leave the hole alone. It's cast iron/steel same same, so it should be pretty easy to grind out without sending the bit into space.

[hjtrbo]

I'll need a steady hand. So based on recent golf efforts I have a narrow window between my my 2nd and 7th Great Northern to be in my optimal period.

[Puffwagon]

Haha whatever keeps the wheels in motion 

[bjc]

Forgot to add last night (crashed as I finally got covid!) that if you have axle tramp issues in the ute (my BA did, surface dependant and it had the usual leafs removed to lower it. Manual in my case though) check out either Mal Woods tramp rod "caltrac" setup or cheaper alternative is WogRocket Industries (Mick) in Mackay Qld as I'm pretty sure he has/had a kit which was way cheaper. 

 

I assume this is your build thread like Puffs... 

[hjtrbo]

Thanks. Puffs is way better than mine. I can't afford what that lucky farker has done. 

 

I always thought the caltracs were WAY overpriced considering you can laser cut and weld sh*t up yourself pretty cheap. I prefer the ones that sit on top of the diff to keep them hidden. I plan to make my own. Will need to sit down and analyse the geometry.