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Don Kedick

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  • Member For: 2y 1m 1d

Yes forgot to mention I am getting the Atomic Flex Plate.

Stock ZF six speed - would upgraded input shaft and tailshafts suffice for a while? I have been looking in to getting the box built in the Toowoomba or Brisbane Region if anyone has suggestions.. 

If I can avoid doing cams and valves now I think I will.

@biddie_fiddler thankyou for the cooler and pipe advice, I will look into better quality, budget is the constraint now, was going to slowly put one better bolt ons.. 

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  • Member For: 4y 11m 28d
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  • Location: Perth, WA

I reckon the cooler you have will do for now. It'll be better than a factory one anyway.

 

If your budget is tight, add it to a future upgrade part list or something. If your intention is to just get the car on the road again then you don't need a better cooler.

 

From my understanding after reading many threads on this forum, especially @Puffwagon's stuff, cams are a tricky one with these motors. He did a number of posts on his cam upgrades and stuff which was really interesting. But yea, the stock cams are very good hence why they are often not replaced for aftermarket versions unless its in high hp, high rev builds.

Again, just my opinion :P 

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  • Member For: 9y 1m 27d
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2 hours ago, Don Kedick said:

Stock ZF six speed - would upgraded input shaft and tailshafts suffice for a while?

 

You'll need upgraded clutches too as your stock ones won't last for long at 800whp. I kept a stock trans alive for a while at that power level but I'd never recommend it to others. If you go the 6r80 route you'll need a modded converter, and depending on the trans builder you may end up with a couple of billet parts in it too.

 

I'm no tail-shaft expert but most of the fg's seem to end up with a carbon fibre unit. Check out jeturbos thread, there's plenty in there.

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  • Member For: 19y 8m 6d
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I would not bother with expensive heavy overpriced intercoolers. In our usual hot 6 months they all get heat-soaked anyway no matter what people say, metal and heat just does not work. Just need a cooler that can flow enough for your power level, that is not a restriction to power.

If you really want to lower IAT reliably and maintain power no matter the ambient temp - look at water/meth injection. I get the premixed stuff delivered to my door, non-flammable very safe. You would be surprised that a water/meth system is actually cheaper than many fancy coolers, lots of other engine benefits as well.

If ths is a daily runabout and occasional track car stick with low mount. If a weekend warrior go high mount and external gate and unleash the beast!

Driveshaft/twin bush hat/diff/brakes etc. are a must.

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I got some pricing for a ZF6r80/6HP26 hybrid and there is a ready made converter to suit by RoadBlaster. I don’t want a laggy tune due to a weak gearbox as mentioned.

6R80 conversion with high performance clutching =$2800

+ converter $2100 - what stall RPM do you guys recommend? 2500-3200 

Quotes were as high as 8k total other places.

 

Yet to chase up any pricing for a driveshaft but that would go next, I will find someone local to do a stronger steel shaft and go for a flash carbon job with titanium bolts down the road.

Would $1500 get me a new beefier driveshaft?

Unsprung weight costs so much more than HP! 
I am going to do the diff work down the track as my budget is blown out at this point. I’ve seen some people on the forums that like the stock diff over a trutrac or similar. Will definitely do the double bush upgrade soon!

But do you think I should do some upgraded CV joints now? Torquline Garage do an 800HP set for $699.

 

With these additions would I be able to go for a more aggressive tune in the mid range and less lag? 
The diff is then the last thing to do, how much power are people running through the stock LSD?  And what problems could I expect? 

 

Thank-you for answering all of my questions, I really appreciate you guyses time.🤙🏼

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9 hours ago, Don Kedick said:

I don’t want a laggy tune due to a weak gearbox as mentioned.

 

That is just that particular tuners preference. You can ramp a 3584rs in at 100% duty cycle until you hit your boost target and the trans won't gaf. It's only wot shifting that will destroy the trans at higher power levels.

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DO NOT order anything from Torqeline. There are various topics from people that have been scammed. 

 

Various topics on driveline on here also. If you want to do your rear end properly, expect to pay close to $10k if you're getting someone else to do it. 

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