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Hi All,

I'm a newbie in need of some help. I'm currently in search of a tuner around bris and know I need to discuss with them.

 

I recently puchased 2013 FG XR6 Turbo. Mods on purchase were:

- Plazamaman stage 2 intercooler

- Plazamaman turbo side air box

- Plazamaman battery relcate kit

- Fan cooled tranmission cooler 

 

After an engine issue I have had to embark on a build sooner than expected/planned.

 

I'm currently getting the engine rebuilt with the following:

- Machine work (Hot tank, recon head, valve seals, hone, deck, crack test block, linish crank )

- Spool rebuild kit (pistons, rods etc)

- Ovate wire beehive valve spring kit

- Billiet oil pump gears and backing plate

- 12mm head studs

- Stage 3 cam shafts  

- Atomic timing chain kit

- ARP main bolt kit

- Ross performance engine dampner

- new water pump

- 4 inch turbo back system with high flow cat  

 

Likely additions

- Main girdle

- Flex plate 

- Fuel system and injectors

- Turbo ?

 

Budget is becoming an issue however I dont want to skimp on something now only turn around and upgrade it in a year. Ultimately, I would like to max out the engine build and be around the 1000HP but can't go this far until I have the budget to sort out the drive line which is likely to be a year or more off. 

 

I'm pretty lost as to the best options with the fuel system and injectors at different levels of HP. Also curious as to opinions on the flex plate but it seems like a great idea to do it now. 

 

I wasn't exactly planning on upgrading the turbo however if this will let me set up the fuel system and injectors correctly for the ultimate build it makes sense to do it now. It would also be good to get as much HP as the stock driveline can handle.  What do you guys think the best options are ? 

 

Thanks

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Do the girdle now cos you sure as sh*t don't wanna do another rebuild/crank tunnel check/machine again. Get main studs to go with it and expect to pay a bit more to get the girdle and studs to fit.

 

Do the flex plate now cos you sure as sh*t don't wanna pull the gearbox out to do it later.

 

Get upgraded pins for the pistons and get the drag pro rods cos they have beefier rod bolts. Both of these cos frig all more than the basic spool options.

 

Get oversize washers for the head studs cos arp decided that they are going with smaller than stock washers for some dickheaded reason.

 

You can build the engine now, get it tuned to full farken send with whatever turbo/fuel system is on it then plan out and install a bigger turbo and fuel system later.

 

Have a look through my thread to see what bits I used to make 950awhp in my territory.

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Puff is all correct on what he is saying...

Although I will add.. if budget is becoming an issue sit down and start calculating what you can/want to spend and be realistic don't get to caught up on the power numbers.... 

getting a 1000hp car set up to be as reliable as a 1000hp car can be is real expensive... especially if your paying for all the labour (ask me how I know lol) once you start it really is a money pit... I'm not saying don't go for it I'm just giving some

Perspective :)

 

Personally if I was you I'd go for a  Garret 

G35-1050 1.21 V band housing on a 6 boost manifold with a 50mm gate...

youl make a real nice 850HP at the tyres with a sweet looking power curve... that's just my 2cents though.... 

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Is it required? No, the car will run fine and make plenty of power without one. For the sake of a five hundred bucks to buy and fit one, I don't see why you wouldn't. It will make the bottom end less likely to flex, or so the story goes. Just save your pennies for a while longer if you have to.

 

As far as the windage tray goes, you should always use one if you can. It's not to stabilize the block as it's only a couple of mm thick. It's to shield the oil from the spinning crank that will aerate the oil when it makes contact.

 

850hp at the wheels is a real ball tearer and you aren't really gonna notice the power difference from 1000hp on the street, unless you're a freaking maniac like some of us :hrmm:

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RB's have a factory girdle, Honda K series have a factory girdle yet the barra only has the  little bits attached to the sides of the windage tray. Not that it helps much for the girdle debate, but if much lower hp engines have a beefy girdle why not the barra?

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Thanks for the responses so far definitley some great advice. I have chased up about the drag pro rods, pins and oversize washers. Hopefully I have gotten to it before rebuild kit has been sent out. I'll chase down the windage tray as I wasn't aware of this but it makes sense. Can anyone think of anything else I should be looking into now rather than later ?   

 

I'll stick with the original plan of concentrating on the build and worry about the rest down the track. Therefore girdle (rightly or wrongly) and flex plate are in.  

 

That said I did check out the G35-1050 and Golebys have a kit with 6boost turbo manifold, Turbosmart 60MM GENV for $5,735 at the moment. 

 

Also if I was to max out the standard turbo what injectors could I get away with in case something comes up on marketplace ?   

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1000cc is sort of the go these days until pushing big power like 500rwkw plus on E85.... 

 

some people have used F6 injectors they'll get close to maxing out the stock turbo on 98 but Idk how good an idea that is or not

( havnt seen duty cycle data)

 

if your gonna be going for the big build just get the injectors now that will be big enough for the power you want later... saves paying twice 

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