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Theft detected code, possible starer motor problem - crank no start


El Andrew

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  • Member For: 8y 11m 28d
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  • Location: Canberra ACT

Hey everyone

 

Bit of a head scratch here.  As you know, I threw Bosch 980cc injectors into the car the other day.  Also been tracing a wiring issue with my transmission cooler fan (which turned out to be a bad crimp that had pulled loose under the dash), so a bit of mucking around with multimeters and of course disconnected the battery while doing the injectors.  Got busy with work and aorund the house, so only got around to hooking the battery back up, loading in a tune with updated injector parameters and starting it yesterday.  Well, tried to start it...

 

Pump primes, car cranks but doesn't fire.  Not even any coughs and stumbles, so seems like no fuel or no spark.  Jump start pack didn't help either, so left the battery on charge overnight.  Exide battery about 12m old.

 

Tried to start it today - same problem.  Checked I'd plugged everything back in properly an all seems fine.  Checked all fuses.  (I'd removed the throttle body to get access to the fuel rail.)  I reflashed the tune but no dice.  I'm using the Raceworks 4 bar data for the injectors as my starting point.  I even pulled the parameters for Bosch 980cc from an old post from @Puffwagon and loaded those parameters in.  I imagine though even if the data was way out, it would at least cough and splutter and try to start.

 

Scanned for codes and I got the usual P1000, U1900 which are common with some code readers.  But also got P1260 - theft detected.  Cleared that, tried again, but no luck.  And the code is back. 

 

Got the 8 year old to watch the fuel pressure gauge while I cranked - I assume it should stay at 4 bar, but he said it dropped.  Took video to confirm - https://youtu.be/y1oBXQGKNPU

 

So it looks like no fuel pressure, which I'm assuming is due to the theft detected issue.  Obviously didn't like something I did when I disconnected battery (I possibly unhooked the battery while the car was locked).

 

I've currently (boom-tish) got the battery disconnected to hopefully reset everything so I can try again tomorrow.  

 

I could retrace my steps and put the old injectors back in with the previous tune, but I'm doubtful that's the issue.  I'll try that if I comes to it though.  Could even put the factory reg in (has a GFB reg), or hook the battery up to the original cables where the turbo-side airbox currently is, to eliminate any battery cable issues.  It does crank though...

 

Any other suggestions anyone can think of?  

 

Presumably unrelatedly, when doing all of this I've noticed that when  I release the key when cranking it keeps cranking until I turn the key off.  I've also had a couple of cocasions in the past few months where I've gone to crank and nothing happens.  If I switch off completely and retry, it has been fine.  So maybe starter solenoid is on the way out - but seems unrelated?  

 

At least I'm in lockdown so don't need the car tomorrow or anything!

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Just to continue documenting my inner monologue...

Figured if the car really is immobilised and cutting the fuel pump, causing no fuel pressure when priming, then I should be able to confirm by checking voltage at pump when cranking.

Pulled the pump connector off and hooked up test light. Has voltage with key on during initial prime, then voltage again when cranking.

I think that's good news. Must be losing fuel pressure someone, so think I need to pull the rail again and recheck all of my steps. But hopefully we are talking a mechanical issue now rather than an electrical/immobilisation issue.

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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If you want any help send me your tune file and I can give you a quick “ok” or “Ball’s D it up” 

 

Jussaynnnnnn 🙃

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Member For: 5y 22d
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My brother had a similar issue with his mk2 fg regarding the theft detected code and not starting. His straight up refused to crank though. 
Anyway, he had a crap battery for a while which apparently killed part of his icc causing the issues. He needed to get the icc replaced. Worked fine ever since. 
 

from what I’ve heard, these cars don’t like being sat around with no battery for a long time. Could be complete sh*t talk though xD

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2 hours ago, JETURBO said:

If you want any help send me your tune file and I can give you a quick “ok” or “Ball’s D it up” 

 

Jussaynnnnnn 🙃

Thanks mate, appreciate it! Have sent you the file and the RW data I used.
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  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 8y 11m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT
My brother had a similar issue with his mk2 fg regarding the theft detected code and not starting. His straight up refused to crank though. 
Anyway, he had a crap battery for a while which apparently killed part of his icc causing the issues. He needed to get the icc replaced. Worked fine ever since. 
 
from what I’ve heard, these cars don’t like being sat around with no battery for a long time. Could be complete sh*t talk though
Hopefully I'm in a different boat! Decent battery, cranking and voltage at the pump
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  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 8y 11m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

Chucked diff bushes in this morning and all good now.

Jet was a legend and confirmed the factory data sheet numbers were no good. Have some numbers in it now to let it start, which confirms it's a tune issue so I can put the spanners away.

Scaling the low slope in the driveway will be fine to get it close. High slope will have to wait until after lockdown!

Good point though Puff - pulling that quick connect would have been a quicker way to confirm pump had voltage and was flowing fuel!

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