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Retarded timing


Frank Castle 85
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  • Member For: 18y 9m 29d
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  • Location: Townsville

Sounds like the tensioner is playing funny buggers maybe?

 

So it seems that the moral of the story is, use a stock block (SBE for the cool cats on facebook!) with some HD valve springs and send it as they seem to last longer than built engines.... :stirthepot:

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  • 1 month later...
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  • Member For: 3y 2d

So! Looks like valve spring seat pressure is responsible for the issues. Making the timing gear noisy until there is enough oil pressure in the top end. Super common apparently, and difficult to eliminate with stiff springs.

They're only PAC 105lb with Ti retainers, but with the head machining, they have extra preload and are under higher tension.

I have all Atomic HD timing gear, so should be ok.

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Alrighty,

 

So update time. This maybe all over the shop.

 

As we all know, my car was retarding from POS19 to NEG57. After sourcing another head and waiting for 2 months for it to be done. I have finally resolved the issue. When I pulled off the OG cams there was lots of scoring under the exhaust side. This to me was the issue as everything else had been replaced. 

 

I got the car currently on a Haltech base map, the only issue now is the car stalls after about 20 minutes of driving or on the occasion it coughs and splatters on start up - no DTC's. Hopefully the tune will fix this. I understand base maps are basically to get your car to tuners, not for continuous driving. 

 

With the new head it was off an FG NA. I replaced the Exhaust valves. I did not bring any of the crow cam valve springs from the previous head, nothing from the head came across, all new sh*t. 

 

Old head V New head. 

 

Crow Cam Valve Springs - Crow Cam Valve Springs with retainers (the big boys)

Plazmaman Head studs - Obitorque with oversized washers

Atomic timing chain kit - Kept the kit removed the Atomic timing chain tensioner and went back to stock

Cosmetic head gasket - stock

 

This morning, I replaced the fuel filter, the car ran heaps better. I also have a suspicion that the regulator maybe dead or very close, I've got a GFB one to chuck on, its the only thing I don't know how to do. I've checked for any possible air leaks, but none to report back. Car is running on Nulon 10w40 maybe I need to go back to 20w60.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 14y 2m 23d
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  • Location: Melbourne

yes, base tunes should not be run permanently, only to get to a tuner and the tune should fix your stalling-when-warmed-up problem.

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  • Farken yeah nah
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  • Member For: 7y 5m 3d
  • Location: South Australia

Yeah nah there can be slight issues with a base tune, it could be a tad lean in some areas which can cause stalling.

 

So quick question, how much power are you looking for? A haltech and heavy arse valve springs are plenty overkill for a stock headgasket among other things.

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1 hour ago, Frank Castle 85 said:

Great to hear you got it all sorted! Hows the car running now?

Still haven't got the car back. But it's had a lot of work put into it, so hopefully all good.

I've now learnt valve spring seat pressures are a bit of an art. Most people are used to just slapping in whatever, and aren't used to sorting issues when they arise 

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