Dual Zone A/C control issue

[biddie_fiddler]

Sh*tty guide on how to do this for anyone watching at home.

 

Two awesome guides to doing this:

FG Workshop manual, Section 412-02, Page 26 - Heating and Ventilation.

This youtube video - FG Falcon Heater Rod Repair without removing the Dash!

 

Heads Up

I took the photos AFTER I installed my mixer shaft when I put everything back together, so what I say in text may not match exactly with the photos provided, they're more of a guide.

This should take you less than 2 hours. You'll need patience as getting the levers that control all the flaps at the top back into place is a real pita.  

 

Step 1 - Remove glove box and trim pieces

You need to remove the side panel on the dash, and the kick panel on the bottom right, as well as the glove box.

The glove box has a little hook on the top to stop it falling, just bend it back a bit out of the way and it'll fall all the way down so you can access the two hinges at the back.

Be careful with these, they are quite tough to remove, I snapped some plastic on mine 🤦‍♂️

I recommend doing the left one first and then the right one, don't just the whole hinge up, start at the left corner and sort of pry it off. Then do do the right one. The glove box will come right out.

Trim pieces are just held on with clips, nothing complicated, find the clips and pull perpendicular to the clip! Or else you'll bend them!

 

Step 2 - Remove glove box mount

There's 10 phillips head screws holding this bad boy in place, I've marked all of their locations below. Remove all of them and then gently pull the glove box mount downwards and towards the passenger seat, diagonally essentially. It isn't held in by clips so it should slide out with no resistance.

If there is resistance, you've missed a screw somewhere.

 

Step 3 - Unscrew HIM

Unhook the rod from the floor door lever. Its a bit tight so be careful you don't snap it, I recommend using a flat head and gentle pressure. Once the clip is off the rod will slide right out!

There are three screws holding the HIM in place, shown below, remove all 3.

The HIM should be loose now, but the mixer shaft/ airmix will still be connected so don't go yanking the thing.

 

 

Step 4 - Disengage the mixer shaft, recirc shaft, and connector

The workshop manual says to use a flat head for this, but you really don't have/need to. Grab the HIM and wiggle it away from the mixer shaft and it should pop off. The coupler in the HIM itself may become loose when you do this 

but don't worry, its keyed and can only go back in one way.

 

The recirc lever is at the top left of the HIM, again the manual says to use a flathead, but I didn't. I managed to get my hand in there and pry it off that way to avoid damaging it. You can wiggle the HIM around to help you get an angle to get the lever unhooked.

 

Now, the HIM should be free (minus electrical connections). The only connector you really need to remove is the one in the middle of the HIM. This one gave me trouble as there are hooks that hold the cable in place at the back of the HIM. Get your hand around the back of the HIM and you'll feel the cable hooks that guide it.

You can pull the cable out of the guide pretty easy. Once you have done this, you can pull the HIM out, there is a heatsink that goes into the dash that you can see in the third pic in step three. Pull the HIM away from this and it'll come out. 

You can remove more electrical connectors if you need, you don't need to if you're aware they are there and you be careful with them.

 

 

Step 5 - Pull the mixer shaft out

Before you stress. Yes, the metal bracket for the glove box mount is in the way, but it is possible to slowly pull the mixer shaft out and move the metal bracket around to get the shaft out.

It isn't ideal, just be gentle, take your time, and the shaft will eventually come out.

 

Step 6 - Install the new mixer shaft

Install the new shaft the in opposite way you removed the f*cked one. You need to push it so that the triangle extrusion of the shaft is just barely touching the heater box, you can't push it further than this so you'll know when its in all the way. 
It'll essentially "bottom out". Just don't force it harder after this. 

The new mixer shaft would have come with a new coupler that goes into the HIM, I replaced this too seeing as I was already there. 

 

Step 7 - Reinstall the HIM

Installation of the HIM is the opposite of removing it. Do the steps in reverse and you'll get it in place. 

When doing this, you need to make sure the levers at the top right of the HIM connect the levers in the dash again, these are the green and blue levers. This will vary depending on what setting you AC was on before starting this process.

I had to get my hand up there and guide the levers  from the dash into the right place for the levers on the HIM to meet them. The levers in the dash move freely, so its just a matter of finding out where they need to be held to line up with the levers on the HIM.

Again, I can't stress this enough, its a patience game. So just take your time.

 

I recommend getting the HIM loosely onto the mixer shaft, getting the levers at the top in place, and then putting the recirc lever back in place. In that order. This is what worked for me anyway.

 

 

that's it!

Its really not super difficult. I highly recommend downloading the workshop manual to use as a guide. It helped a lot

 

Good luck with your replacement!

[Kris limmer]

Hi guys, I hope somone can help explain which notch of the star shaped mixer shaft spline lines up with what in the female spline in the HIM module, 

Also is there 3 bolts per side at the pillar? one everybody points out and the two obvious ones? 

 

Also where in the manual is any information about this dash out job? Does anyone have a link to online manual pages? 

My shaft and flap is broken, 

[k31th]

it's a dash-out job for a B-series, not so much for an FG, as per the above instructions... What model is yours?

The shafts should have alignment points in it or markings that line up, as nobody would know that stuff off hand or would want to guess

[Kris limmer]

Fg 2009, shame I can't just post a image here of the two halves of the mixer shaft

[k31th]

of course you can post pics

https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/92470-how-to-put-images-in-your-post/

[biddie_fiddler]

Took me a while to find where I posted the link to the workshop manuals. Turns out it was in the thread "Workshop Manual" 🤣🤣

 

@Kris limmer have a browse in the google drive folder linked in the comment below. Download them onto your PC too, they're very handy  

 

[Kris limmer]

Thanks, I Looked through there but I couldn't see anything on the removel of the hivac HIM or hot cold flaps 

[biddie_fiddler]

EDIT:
this is also dependant on if you have single zone or dual zone, SZ and DZ respectively. These terms are used in the workshop manual. In both cases its a dash out job

 

412-002, they are called airmix doors not flaps. This looks like a pretty intense job, the HVAC assembly doesn't need to be removed but the dash does to get access to the doors.

Below is where to find the info and the statement saying remove dash (I have made it bold, underlined, and italics)

Specific page, 412-002-29 ( I.e. page 29):

 

"Shaft — Airmix Door SZ
Removal
NOTE: The Airmix Door Shaft (SZ) is now a service
replacement part, and can be replaced WITHOUT
removing the HVAC assembly, discharging the A/C
refrigerant or draining the engine coolant.
1. Do not remove the HVAC asy, discharge the A/C
refrigerant or drain the engine coolant, as these
are not necessary to replace the air mix shaft(s).
Set the ICC to Recirculation and Face modes.
Remove the instrument panel (refer to section
501-12)"

Edited 15/02/22 03:10 AM by biddie_fiddler
spelling

[Kris limmer]

Thanks a million mate

 

I'm posting on the Facebook page  'glub fg' my progress

[QIKAZZ]

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I have a FG and it has Dual Zone Climate control. In my case its the passenger side that is stuck on hot. Drivers side works perfectly. Im lead to believe there is 2 mixer/blend shafts on the Dual Zone. but all pictures and instructions, including those above (from what I understand) only mention one shaft. Does anyone have details on how/where the second shaft is located and if this is also able to be done without the dash out on a FG ?

 

Cheers

 

Azz