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Aeroflow 7075 on Barra, interested in peoples experience with this turbo or equivalent, power, rpm range, lag etc


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Ive scored a brand new Aeroflow 7075.

8005-4004

T4 with1.15 rear

 

My concern is its best rpm range and lag.

 

Car was previously stock engine with nizpro springs, high mount with to4z t4 1.06, 4" dump with 2" wastegate pipe through 50mm wastegate, hdi 600x300x75 cooler, 3.5" xforce exhaust, plazmaman top plenum, seimen daka 660cc injectors.

T56 manual sedan.

Would start building boost at 1100rpm in top gear.

12psi by 1500rpm.

No lag issues.

Was running it to 6300rpm

 

New built engine, lots of porting with large ferrea valves.

New pro series plazmaman intercooler.

New complete plazmaman plenum intake.

Possibly will go to stage 3 crow cams also.

 

Car is street car, would like to do some weekend street circuit fun.

Not wanting to rev it harder than 6500rpm due to factory crank.

 

Is this turbo too big for my application, will it be laggy down low in the rpm range?

 

Feedback appreciated.

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Thanks Keith.

 

Gets disheartening being on here and not being able to finish the new build.

Hoping I can get back into finishing it.

 

Ive have thought numerous times of putting it in a shop to finish, but I can't bring myself to trust shops.

Being in the industry in my younger years, brings me to lack of trust.

Also, if something goes wrong I prefer its by my mistake not a shop where I have a sh*t fight to get it sorted.

I build it, it breaks, I learn and fix the issue.

 

I take it this website is not as popular now adays since no more Barras are being sold.

So bs what these bureaucrats and big corporations do to us.

 

6 hours ago, Tom Tucker said:

that's impressive response from the TO4Z. Are you getting your motor built in QLD?

It did go well, until number 6 rod didn't want to play no more. Lol

Ive been on a extreme slow build, too busy to get into it, too many toys and no room atm to try finish it.

 

New engine.

Extensive porting

Large Ferrea Valves

Crow springs

Crow stage 3 cams (still have to purchase)

Crow lifters

Undecided on timing chain kit

Ross Forged Pistons

Argo Rods with ARP2000 bolts

ARP main and head studs

ACL bearings

Atomic oil pump gears

Billet oil pump backing plate.

Atomic main girdle. 

 

Have not decided on new injectors as yet.

 

Also have the plug and play Haltech ecu now, can't wait to play with it.

Was tuning using sct with racer pro tuning software.

So much more options with the Haltech.

 

Not sure if I get to finish it soon though, as very time deprived and got to try sort room out in my garage.

 

Just get a little motivated everytime I get a new piece.

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Back when I was running the to4z, a friend had a bf f6, that ran gt45 with gt47 internals.

Made 600rwhp at think was 22psi on pump fuel tune.

780rwhp on race fuel think was 28psi.

 

Mucking around on the street from 60kph, I put over a car length on him and held it till x speed.

 

His would not make boost under 3500rpm.

Hence I'd get out front straight up.

He was always complaining about how other cars would do the same and once he got going it was all over.

 

This is what Im fearing with this 7075.

Don't want to sacrifice the low end so much, if it will start making boost by 2000rpm at be on song before 3000rpm I could live with it, do not want to rev it past 6500rpm with factory crank.

 

Wasn't expecting the 7075 to being so much bigger than the to4z until I got home with it and compared it.

Was a great price so I jumped on it, before researching it throughly.

 

I also need to sit manifold on head and sit turbo on to make sure it clears head and rocker cover.

May need to sell my to4z setup and get new manifold and dump made.

 

Just need to hear from others of how this turbo responds so I can decide to keep or resell it.

 

The to4z will limit max hp, with the porting, big valves, pro series plazmaman intercooler and plazmaman plenum.

Im certain it will be even more response allowing me to utilize a larger turbo.

My plans back when I started the build was to go T51R, but seems theres been numerous improvements in turbos since and theres better options.

 

Feel free to recomment options of turbo choice.

Keep in mind its not a drag car.

Its a 6sp manual.

Its street and fun circuit use I'm after.

With some drag runs time to time.

 

Not wanting a sh*tbox LS beating me because of lag or no traction when boost arrives. 

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23 hours ago, k31th said:

from all of that it sounds like you really really want to keep the to4z setup...

Yeah like I was extremely happy with it.

Was very responsive.

Downside was I also struggled with traction first 3 gears.

Running 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's.

Tune at 12psi was driveable through throttle control.

On 17psi tune there was fine line between no boost and wheelspin.

 

So thinking as I said with the headwork, bigger intercooler, plenum etc.

That response will be even better which will make traction worst.

Hence thinking to try keep the response no better than it was or a little later just so it gives car the chance to start moving before boost comes on.

From what I've read on my Haltech ecu, boost control is well covered, so will be able to control traction. 

 

Feel something similar to a t51r might be my best option.

 

Be good to hear feedback on this 7075 first.

Can it work as I want or will it be too laggy?

 

Whats a good option up from a to4z?

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Im in agreement that they will defiantly increase peak power.

Smoother ports should promote quicker cylinder filling, though increased port volume will slow port speed, (more critical in N/A).

Larger intercooler also slower air speed.

Short straight runner plenum, not sure.

 

Maybe I'm better off finishing build, run the to4z and see if Im happy.

 

That G35-900 sounds good, but omg it is pricey.

Maybe even next size up. 

Will keep researching.

 

Thanks

 

On 06/04/2021 at 3:53 PM, Tom Tucker said:

I'm with you, response is where it's at. Nothing worst than some laggy turbo on the street.

You have similar goals to me. I went G35-900, but you could probably buy 4 Aeroflows for the cost of that

Searched the G35-900, says its for 2.0L to 3.5L engines.

Great power rating.

You would surely be controlling boost down low in first 3 gears on street rubber.

What are you revving yours too and does it hold boost to your rev limit?

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On 06/04/2021 at 3:53 PM, Tom Tucker said:

I'm with you, response is where it's at. Nothing worst than some laggy turbo on the street.

You have similar goals to me. I went G35-900, but you could probably buy 4 Aeroflows for the cost of that

Tom, looked at the g35 and no T4 flange.

Just T3 and vband.

 

Looks like next step is a g42, nothing between.

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Didn't know you could get one in T3. Mine is Vband on 6boost

 

6 hours ago, 01txr said:

Searched the G35-900, says its for 2.0L to 3.5L engines.

Great power rating.

You would surely be controlling boost down low in first 3 gears on street rubber.

What are you revving yours too and does it hold boost to your rev limit?

Not really man. Stock GT3582R on stock manifold was more prone to wheelspin in the first three gears

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I've tried a bunch of different turbos and the one thing that always happens is the power falls over at 5500rpm due to stock cams. The only way to carry the power out further is to jam more boost into it after 5500rpm or get cams.

 

Something else to think about is, if you want a responsive high hp car you should get a supercharged V8. Running a big turbo on a 4 litre 6 and expecting response is... well it just doesn't happen.

 

That aeroflow you got shouldn't be too bad but it'll be on around 1000rpm later than a stock f6 turbo. I've got a 7675 and it's lit up to 30+psi and going nuts before 3500rpm on a cold day and about 400rpm later in the middle of summer.

 

If you short shift to 3rd or 4th in the zf and plant it there is lag for days. Kick it down a gear and there's no worries.

 

Anyhow there's my 2 cents and a bit. :drinks:

Edited by Puffwagon
Why not?
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I’ve never had the pleasure of driving a tuned up supercharged v8 but I’ve driven a factory Supercharged VF gts completely stock tbh there fairly gutless under 2800 rpm...... although when cruising along you plant it kicks down a gear or 2and it’s just instant power fun cars...

 

my personal opinion on the Barras is that for a STREET car the GTX 3582 & G35 sized turbos (and other manufacturers equivalents) are about perfect for them lag is minimal and they make enough power to keep 99% of people happy any bigger then that and there not such a good street car anymore... keep in mind this is just my opinion and I’m sure some will disagree, I’ve  driven a Barra with a gtx 42 wasn’t for me nothing power wise then suddenly it’s a smoke show and your tearing tyres apart and revving at 7000rpm in the blink of an eye it is fun to begin with but when smaller frame turbo cars with 50% less power then you are belting you off the lights and up to 120kph... it gets fairly annoying.

 


@01txr have you considered pulsar turbo systems equivalent on the garret g35-900 or 1050 there much much cheaper then the genuine garret.. 

 

tbh I’m considering a pulsar turbo, I know the garret is probably better but bloody hell garrets have gotten super expensive gtx3582 gen 1 supercores used to be $1500 a few years ago can’t touch a garret for that money anymore...

 

pulsar seem to have a decent rep maxx performance is using them on the regular and some YouTube reviews rate them highly.

 

pulsar turbo g35-1050 with a t3 and Vband is $1325, it’s $1600 if you want the t51 mod done on the comp housing 

 
Genuine garret cheapest I’ve seen is 

$4000 and most places want around 4300, tbh it’s a ridiculous price for a turbo 

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I think the problem relates to the step from 500kw and beyond.

 

You can get a nice responsive turbo on the stock exhaust manifold which flows perfectly up to 500kw. Beyond that, you really need an aftermarket manifold to avoid engine damage. As soon as you move away from the stock manifold you give up response. So a lot of people end up jumping from 4-500kw to 700kw. There isn't really an in between 

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Yea I agree, I just sometimes wonder (and I genuinely mean wonder not being a smartars*), why people like these cars with the large frame turbos e.g. gtx 42 and larger that are heaps laggy they make the car hard to drive and enjoy (I can understand if 1/4 times are the main goal though)

 

hey Tom why is the standard manifold only good to 500 why does more then that risk damage?  Is it a flow issue I’m assuming?

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I think big auto converters can get some of those big turbos moving much earlier than a manual, and stuff like antilag is becoming more common.

And yep, flow above 500-550kw is compromised. I think even forged pistons break ring lands or melt

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57 minutes ago, TRYME said:

why people like these cars with the large frame turbos e.g. gtx 42 and larger

 

I've got awd so it means I actually get moving instead of smoking it up. I've had 600awkw dead hook in second gear on a sticky summer hwy. Going from a 66mm garrett on a stock manifold to a 76mm aeroflow on a 6boost manifold only sacrificed about 500rpm, so I'm happy with that, and with a 3500rpm converter it will probably spool like a stock turbo car again. Also the car drives quite decently off boost so it's not slow for everyday driving.

 

But yerp I can see both sides of the coin, and I think awd is the saving grace for me. I reckon it would suck in a rwd car.

 

13 hours ago, TRYME said:

for a STREET car the GTX 3582 & G35 sized turbos (and other manufacturers equivalents) are about perfect for them lag is minimal and they make enough power to keep 99% of people happy

 

Haha I'm definitely the 1% :launch:

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Nah I haven't really had any problems with it. It's made a funny noise once or twice when the power transfer through the wheels has changed rapidly but apart from that it's been ok.

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Latest is I am possible off loading the 7075, and going the g35-1000, not sure to go the 1.01 or 1.21 rear.

 

The to4z is off the top of my head a 1.06.

Built boost from 1100rpm in top gear, 12psi by 1500rpm.

Don't mind losing a bit of low down response.

Eg. Build boost from 1500rpm min to 2000rpm max with it making 20psi by 3000rpm.

 

Debating to buy 1.21 giving it a go, if response is too late then buy a 1.01.

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