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Track day braking issue


karlp2

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  • Member For: 10y 8m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Went to a track day on Saturday and had issues with the front 6 pots overheating and shuddering. The car has near new DBA T3 rotors, in prep for the track day I swapped out the pads for some Pagid RSL1 pads (so a track endurance pad), as per instructions from Racebrakes I gave the rotors a light sand, fitted the new pads, bedded them in as per instructions.  I did three hours to the track day, did the the first few laps without pushing too much to help the pads bed in again.  After that had some fun, noticed coming down the back straight and braking from around 190/200 the front not quite biting and after a couple more laps the front starting to shudder.  Went in to give the car a chance to cool down, second time out and the shudder was just getting worse, looking at the rotors they had heat spots on them from overheating.  Wouldn’t say I pushing the brakes any harder than other falcons around me.  What’s happening here for the brakes to not bite properly and just overheat?  As mentioned they were near new rotors and brand new pads.  Thanks

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Don’t feel special mate it’s a falcon 

 

From spanking new FPV offered Track driving days to “Learn” Your new vehicle and by lap 3 at Mallala you were two feet on the brake pedal coming into corner one and this was every 6/4 and 4/4 combo vehicles from F6 to GTP’s 

 

Even with 6/4’s the rotor size is too small for the weight vehicle on repeatedly heaving high speed pull ups 355mm is just tiny when compared to something like HSV’s 380’s and same mass 

 

If you get serious step up to a Harrop or Alcon arrangement 

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

For track dba5000 are better as they have less chance of warping when over heating.  Race pads can be hit or miss.  If not bedded in absolutely perfect they wont perform properly.  I would say that's what has h asppened to you. I have 100s of laps at wanneroo with 6/4 and brembo pads.  Never had an issue 

Edited by arronm
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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Did the same time as my KTM. 68 seconds long track. I think I was trying hard.  First time with instructor I scared the sh*t out of him coming out of the basin sideways and then braking so late at the bottom of the hill.  He actually grabbed the dash yelling brake , brake.  I said calm down.  After that he wanted out.  I laughed a bit.  He was angry. 

 

I have done 1000s of laps on bikes. Best is 62 seconds

 

What is weird is the lines in the corners are completely different between  cars and bikes 

Edited by arronm
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  • Member For: 9y 7m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

ive been told to always machine the rotors when changing pad compound because apparently the pad material embeds itself into the rotor and and the new compound may not work properly on the old. Sanding the rotors by hand seems ill advised to me as it likely wont get rid of the old pad material out of the rotor and probably result in an uneven finish, reducing contact surface area. I just did a track day down at Collie (a track which is hard on brakes couple hours south of perth) on my trusty PBR premium front calipers and territory rears and had no issues with fade... until the rotors decided to crack on the 3rd outing. Never buying drilled rotors again

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