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Puffwagon

Puffwagon's Territory Adventures

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Cheers, yes that's on E85.

 

Those results are from my road tuning. I had it on the dyno today for checking and a real dyno number, rather than using virtual dyno.

 

I know that there can be improvements here and there but I'll be back to the dyno to fine tune it some more, where I can safely and accurately measure changes.

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Hey good results mate especially for AWD 

 

Get a layout with fuel on it ?

 

The 11.8 psi actuator can hold more just wind up the preload and be willing to accept more on the initial hit ;) 

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7 minutes ago, JETURBO said:

The 11.8 psi actuator can hold more just wind up the preload and be willing to accept more on the initial hit ;) 

sounds like a recipe for broken driveline components and/or wheelspin :)

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You're right about the wheel spin. :declare:

 

10 minutes ago, JETURBO said:

Hey good results mate especially for AWD 

 

Get a layout with fuel on it ?

 

The 11.8 psi actuator can hold more just wind up the preload and be willing to accept more on the initial hit ;) 

Thanks mate, haha I was thinking of ya today. I even stalked some of your previous dyno sheets to see what I should be aiming for.

 

I didn't get the fuel on the dyno sheet but we did log it on the dyno so can overlay it in the future. I did log every run on the laptop, so I do have all the fuel data.

 

We saw a 0.5 afr difference between my wb that is installed at the front of the cat and the dyno wb at the tailpipe.

 

We ended up a bit fat according to my wb. Mid 11 up to high 11 overall.

 

I've got the actuator set to "just a touch tighter than barely holding it shut" and don't get boost spikes for the most part. Good to know there's some left in it when I free up the exhaust.

 

If you want a look I'll pm you a run or two.

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Here's a second gear launch with a teeny bit of foot brake to get it moving of the line quicker. It goes pretty good really but I think it could do with a bit moar POWAHHH :buttrock:

 

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Start saving them pennies, it's ZF/6R80 time soon!

 

I just had mine done, the gearshifts are crisp and sharp compared to the factory box. No amount of tuning will overcome the factory hardware deficiencies.

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I've got a 6r80 box here that I can use parts from. I've also got a set of exedy clutches for the zf, so depending how the clutches are in the E drum from the 6r80, I'll reuse them or get new ones.

 

Depending on what gets replaced, the box will be relatively inexpensive if I do it all myself. A new torque converter will be the biggest cost I reckon.

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Meh. I didn't get on it as I had to take someone else's kid home and I only finished up at school finishing time. I think it needs a touch more fluid though.

 

Also looking at the filter hole size, I think next time I do it I'll use some tin snips and cut it out to make it a bit larger. Considering I only swapped the pan juices I might just drain it and chop it up then.

 

That can be tomorrows job.

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I'm looking to buy some springs for my suspension, as it tries to wheel stand with it's current saggy springs. Any suggestions and thoughts about 30mm raised. I will be towing a large caravan occasionally.

Edited by Puffwagon

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Ordered and on the way. I'll see what condition the shocks are in when I do the springs and see about swapping them at some stage too.

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Brettus here... Haven't read your thread yet but I need new shocks and springs also both front and rear. The car isn't sagging or anything but pretty sure the front shocks are rooted and the bump stops are gone! 

I'd like to know how Stathi from IMS (Independent Motorsports) gets his TT to launch without squatting in the arse? I assumed it was either airbag in the rear springs or he has the transfer case locked (welded) and front diff welded also. The latter would account for the antisquat as we do the same with the RC cars and buggy, truggy, MT's... 

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I'm interested to see how different the car launches with the new springs, as hopefully a lot more weight will be over the front tyres. I think a welded transfer case with a lsd in the rear would make a huge difference with grip levels. Haha I might find out one day.

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I messaged him a while ago about it (locking the t-case) and he didn't recommend it for a road car and said it wasn't needed under I think 450kw. Unsure why it wouldn't be good on the street apart from it loading the driveline as it would be sweet for street light racing! I rarely start my car and when I do it's driving less than 20kms so I reckon I'd get a decent time period out of it. I do have a spare ZF and t-case for it. It's from the Kosij boys so might be in worse condition than mine!!! 

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He might have said it's not needed for the street cos the awd territory is gonna walk away from most cars at street legal speeds anyway? I think the 450kw figure is probably where it starts to smoke, rather than gently spin the front tyres in second gear.

 

Being a heavy vehicle, having a locked t-case is going to put a lot of load into the axles. It wouldn't be too hard to adapt an Atlas t-case but I don't think I'll be the one to do that. Ha it would be a proper 4x4 with that mod!

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The gearbox still isn't happy after topping up and after a bit of reading it seems that folks here have run into the same issues with the fluid I used. Although it specifically says it can be used for BF/FG Falcons, it seems that it is a no go. Looks like I'll be off to the shop to get a different fluid.

 

Fwiw the gearbox was happier with the 160 thousand km old fluid.

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Penrite bmv. I got 4 litres into the trans and it said nope.

 

I've picked up a couple of bottles transmax and at $108 for 4 litres I hope it works a bit better.

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