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Puffwagon's Territory Adventures


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On 29/11/2020 at 6:21 AM, Puffwagon said:

It was 8 hours total to remove the old exhaust and make the new one etc. I reckon I could do the same in 6 hours next time :)

 

I put a 45 over the cradle, after the small kick up from the straight pipe. Then I used a couple of 45s to finish it off to the resonator.

yeah rear cradle is where I gave up on mine.

 

eep42KI.jpg

 

step back to stock system.

 

nFI9a06.jpg

 

should put my ass into gear and fix that.

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Did some tuning today. Apparently gapping the plugs did the trick cos straight away it ran up 605awkw with no tune changes.   I frigged around with fuel and boost and this and that, and mana

Here's the graph. I had to run it in 3rd to get a number as I was hitting a speed limiter in 4th and was too tardled to work out how to remove it. I disabled it in the vid block, changed it in the tun

Got to the dyno today and it went pretty much as I expected. The exhaust showed to be a huge restriction but we all knew that anyway. The first run right off the bat showed 367awkw on 16psi and

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Tried launching it in second today and it was no bueno. Spun the fark out of it, hit limiter at 7 grand and went into limp home mode.

 

I think a locked transfer case is on the cards, just for r&d and also s&g. Why not chuck in some spg while I'm there :chefburn:

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Speaking of plugs ;)  I bought a new set of genuine 0.7's today. Gonna gap dem bitches to 0.5 and farken send it :launch:

 

More dyno time tomorrow to frig with my boost sensor scaling and make sure there are no random misfires (probably plugs), fit 4 new tyres, give the dump a gentle massage to let the steering shaft breathe a bit better and empty the catch can. Should probably give it an oil and filter change as it's got a couple of thousand hard km on it.

 

All the fun :w00t2:

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Tried launching it in second today and it was no bueno. Spun the fark out of it, hit limiter at 7 grand and went into limp home mode.
 
I think a locked transfer case is on the cards, just for r&d and also s&g. Why not chuck in some spg while I'm there :chefburn:
Stathi at IMS recommended going a locked transfer case only over 450-500kw. He wouldn't give details but I'm guessing a kg of welding!
The chain with a single blue link is what you are chasing if it needs replacing...
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So yerp, I'm going roll racing tomorrow night. Hopefully the trans doesn't slip too much but if it does I've got an exedy clutch kit here that I can chuck in over the holidays.

 

It'll do a mid 11 now so that should take out most of the oldens lol xD

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13 hours ago, Puffwagon said:

It spins the front tyres so changing the rear diff wont help.

 

Maybe the tcase is frigged. I'll get it off one day and have a look.

It's spinning the tyres with least grip. Fitting a LSD or Truetrac will make a massive difference. 

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Think about it...there is front/rear split. The rear isn't spinning so there is no point locking the rear, cos that's not the issue.

 

I could lock the rear and the front will still spin cos the front and rear are split.

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Yep that's correct. The pickup points on the gear for the front rear are the 60ish 40ish split in the transfer case, but there is nothing to hold them to that. If your car squats then more load is applied to the rear part of the transfer case gear assy, so it frees up the front part to send more power to the front.

 

Google nv125 transfer case. Also look at the pictures to get a good understanding of it. It's basically an open diff that has more rear bias. I've researched it fully.

 

My transfer case is working fine and haven't heard it jump a tooth for a while lol. Doesn't mean it is perfect but the only solution to sending power to the back is to lock the transfer case.

 

This is only needed to launch the car from a dig. I mostly still get traction at any rolling speed.

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Paul's 450rwkw AWD G6ET didn't have any of these problems, mind you, he did have a truetrac fitted. 

 

Fix the traction problems in the rear, then come back and tell me I was wrong. With that much power you need to sort out the rear end anyway.

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Bro you are so wrong I reckon you could burn the water in your kettle when you make a cuppa.

 

My rear wheels don't spin on the asphalt when it's dry. I'm not sure how many times you need to be told this lol.

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Bro, I don't know how to make a cuppa, I have people do that for me.....

 

Having owned 2 TTG's mine did spin the rear wheels before the fronts. Both had open diffs, spinning the front was easy, especially when going around corners. Open diffs transfer power to the wheels with the least resistance as you know.

 

Seems you have a problem and I trust you're able to sort it out. When it's sorted a truetrac or lsd will aid with even more traction.

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since ya never posted dyno vids or pics (other than the sheet, which is acceptable for pics, but not vids obviously :P ), make sure to get pics/vids of roll racing :)

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