Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,127 Member For: 9y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 12/12/22 04:50 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/22 04:50 AM Car is sorted. I pulled a wg spring out so now I've got 14psi of spring in the gate instead of 19. It still makes all the boost cos 4 port but now I can turn it right down for a 98 tune when that comes about. I'll have to retune it slightly for the spring change with the E85 tune but that's easy enough. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,302 Member For: 16y 14d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 12/12/22 04:53 AM Share Posted 12/12/22 04:53 AM Excellent news boost control is all good now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,127 Member For: 9y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 12/12/22 04:57 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/22 04:57 AM I only went for a quick drive to check for leaks etc, didn't log it. My ethanol/wideband/boost gauge has a peak boost function and it touched 35psi which is pretty normal for a 34 psi tune. I'll get tuning in a couple of days and she should be sweet. Cars don't mind going down in spring pressure, just going up can make them run amok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,127 Member For: 9y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 12/12/22 09:20 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/22 09:20 AM Back to the car related stuff, when I was working on the car yesterday I noticed the turbo didn't spin freely. I checked again today when it was back together and it was still tight. I ran it and eventually the turbo stopped spinning. Looking story short the compressor nut was doing itself up and causing friction between the compressor wheel and the backing plate seal piece. I fixed it and went for that short drive this afternoon. Rechecked it a minute ago and it's tightened itself up again. Inspected the shaft and there was a bees dick worth of Loctite on it, not nearly enough to hold it still. Farken loctited the bastard, lined up the marks I had made on the nut and wheel and it now spins freely with fark all axial play. Moral of this story is if you buy an Aeroflow or Pulsar turbo, pull it apart before you use it and make sure it won't come loose like both of mine have. The Aeroflow unit had the backing plate screws come loose and the backplate was rubbing the compressor wheel, for those that don't remember. Lucky I caught both of mine quickly and fixed them, 99% of users will end up with a repair bill for turbo repair and possibly a farked turbo to boot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,302 Member For: 16y 14d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 12/12/22 09:38 AM Share Posted 12/12/22 09:38 AM shocking to hear about the nut situation... but good information 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 309 Member For: 13y 3m 5d Posted 12/12/22 11:12 AM Share Posted 12/12/22 11:12 AM Excellent timing on the info! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,127 Member For: 9y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 12/12/22 12:05 PM Author Share Posted 12/12/22 12:05 PM No worries lol. Looking at my post it appears that the friction from the back side of the compressor wheel was causing the issue. Why is there friction in this place? There is the bearing, the seal housing piece then the compressor wheel. The bearing design is much different than a Garrett turbo, maybe the design doesn't allow for much leeway in the assembly process. The Pulsar and Garrett use a dual ceramic bearing cartridge whereas the Aeroflow has a dual ceramic angular contact bearing design that uses two separate bearings. Anyhow just thinking out aloud now. Should still be able to pull the skin off the custard when it counts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biddie_fiddler [IMPULSIV3] Donating Members 1,370 Member For: 5y 26d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 13/12/22 12:03 AM Share Posted 13/12/22 12:03 AM Wow almost like these are the kinda things that are skipped to reduce cost 😂 Good to know though! Will keep an eye on my pulsar turbo! Even still, I can buy two more brand spankers from pulsar before the cost is close to a genuine garrett. I'll take me chances 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,127 Member For: 9y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 13/12/22 01:17 AM Author Share Posted 13/12/22 01:17 AM Haha I'm not sure saving a bit of Loctite makes much a difference It's a lot more head fark to check the smaller turbos once they're installed cos they don't have a vband compressor or turbine housing. Still less of a head fark than having a busted turbo that's spat ground up compressor wheel into your intercooler. The best thing to do for new customers is to have their turbo gone through by a workshop to ensure reliability, or you can do it yourself if you know how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowxr6t Member 516 Member For: 5y 4m 20d Location: New zealand Posted 13/12/22 09:04 AM Share Posted 13/12/22 09:04 AM Poor man buys two pulsars! I heard that awesome aussie saying on here. I Mish matched a Garrett together. Actually bought a new Garrett gt3582r core that is supposed to have ceramic bearings and also bought a second hand cheap unused older gt3582r complete with .70 comp cover and 1.06 externally gated exhaust housing and swapped the cores out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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