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Puffwagon's Territory Adventures


Puffwagon

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  • Currently in primer
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  • Member For: 6y 10m 7d
  • Location: South Australia

The intake charge is still cooled though not until it is closer to the port, but it will still be cooled down a sh*tload. The only benefit cooling wise for pre tb is that is would cool the manifold down, further cooling the intake air.

 

I suppose I could install the jets further up the runners to give it more time to cool and also cool the runners more.

 

Haha I also have 3 jets that I can install pre tb if I want to get hectic about it!

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  • Member For: 18y 3m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

I'm thinking also that the air temp sensors won't see this large drop in temperature so compensation won't take effect (mightn't be a big issue).

Spare jets are good as they are one of the most expensive things in the kits... 

 

While I'm thinking... don't forget to dabble in/try out nitromethane also with the W/M injection. Unsure what the price is now but it was $20 a litre from hobby shops years ago unless you know someone who buys it by the drum! I'm pretty sure it's still sold in a bottle for the kits like Snow Performance premix (which isn't 50/50 the jews). It was called "hot shot" or something which is hilarious (for the men at least). 

You probably know but don't buy RC fuel as it contains synthetic and bean/castor oil. It smells phuking fantastic though... Lol

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  • Currently in primer
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  • Member For: 6y 10m 7d
  • Location: South Australia

Yerp the tmap is just above the lower runners in the intake manifold and wouldn't get touched with port injection. This isn't an issue though as it can be adjusted in the tune and in my case is already adjusted to the usual settings.

 

Haha I can't say whether I'll use nitro methane or not but it's unlikely. More likely though is using a methanol/98 mix in the tank to max out the injectors and use water meth on top of that. It's a while off though so who know?!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Currently in primer
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  • Member For: 6y 10m 7d
  • Location: South Australia

They're all within a few hundred dollars so price isn't a consideration. In saying that I'm not going a dry sump cos that sh*t is way too expensive!

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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  • Member For: 13y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

I’ve been using the M/T oil pumps lately and they’re an amazing bit of billet !

 

If you want one Nathan I can sharpen that price up by a touch ;) 

 

QT1ArNh.jpg
 

I66NrNI.jpg

 

qRr4w2n.jpg

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  • Member For: 6y 10m 7d
  • Location: South Australia

Cheers mate, I literally just bought the hp junkie unit. One thing that steered me away from the Monsta Torque unit was the fact that it is advertised as OEM pressure, which is not something I want. Now looking at those pics I can see they actually do offer different relief settings. Oh well.

Edited by Puffwagon
a word
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  • Member For: 2y 8m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
18 minutes ago, JETURBO said:

I’ve been using the M/T oil pumps lately and they’re an amazing bit of billet !

 

If you want one Nathan I can sharpen that price up by a touch ;) 

Damn that is one hot looking bit of kit 🤑😍

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  • Member For: 6y 10m 7d
  • Location: South Australia

So yeah the money wasting continues... After spending nearly 10k between the trans and the water meth kit, the car lasted about 3 weeks before the oil pump exploded it's *beep* all through the timing cover and sump.

 

This round of stuff I've ordered to get it up and running again lists thusly;

 

Horse Power Junkie High Volume Barra Billet Oil Pump

Atomic Heavy Duty Posi-Stop Barra DOHC Timing Chain Tensioner

Atomic Barra Heavy Duty Timing Chain

Atomic (Barra BA-FGX) Atomic billet steel crankshaft sprocket

Atomic Solid Checking Lifter - Ford DOHC 6 Cylinder, DOHC V8 and V10 DOHC Modular Engine

Dyno-Mite Performance BA-FGX Barra Fire Ring Gasket Kit in 39 thou

Atomic Roller Rocker Set

 

The billet crank is gonna have to wait cos I ain't made of money. Also gonna order bearings once the motor is apart cos I might not even need them, but also it might have farked a crank pin in which case I'll be using a ten under crank I have here.

 

Will drop the head off to fix the cam journal and a quick skim and also pick up some strong ass acid to clean the cams. Gonna re-ring it while it's apart and close the second ring gap a teeny tiny bit from 28 down to 26 thou, leave the top at 22. Should help a little with blow by....maybe?!

 

Anyway enough waffle, more updates will come eventually.

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